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Thread: Picture frame makers, what do you use for clamping

  1. #16
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    Bill, I use a older version of a clamp that work like this one v307975.jpg It is one that my father acquired many years ago and the manufacturer wasn't proud enough of their product to put their name on it.

    A couple of hints to get good joints, that you may already know:

    1. Make sure opposite sides are exactly the same length. You can stand them up on a flat surface and visually inspect that the tips of the 45 are exactly even.
    2. The 45 degree miter is like gluing end grain so coat both sides of the joint with glue as most woods will suck it right up.
    3. Assemble your parts dry first to make sure the joints are going to close up. Any bow or twist in your pieces will mess up a joint.
    Lee Schierer
    USNA '71
    Go Navy!

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  2. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Tobias View Post
    Bill,
    I know you said you have used strap clamps, but had to ask if you have used this one.
    I had used the Bessey strap clamps for years but after trying out these by Wolfcraft, there is no comparison. One handed use and adjustments is very easy. Also clamps square every time for me.
    http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    Jim
    Those are the ones, I really like them for other things.

  3. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lee Schierer View Post
    2. The 45 degree miter is like gluing end grain so coat both sides of the joint with glue as most woods will suck it right up.
    This where I like to use a biscuit or a Domino or spline or what-have-you to reinforce the joint.
    Wood: a fickle medium....

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  4. #19
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    Thanks all, I guess Lee Valley will be getting an order.
    My joints are all really good, it is just the glue up that has given me the problem.
    I will order the clamp system from LV and see how it goes.

    Again thanks for the help.

  5. #20
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    Bill, I believe the Lee Valley set is a slight step up from the Rockler clamp set. Both work better on smaller frames. I build a lot of frames for my wife's oil / acrylic canvas paintings but they are usually in the sizes ranging from 24x24 up to 36x48. For those sizes, the best I have found is the Wolfcraft band clamp also sold by Menards under their workforce brand (the same ones mentioned by Jim earlier). I always use a domino on each miter and two on the larger frames. Really helps to keep them aligned during glue up.

    Someone in the forum here posted a you tube video on a professional Felder slider and toward the end of the hour long video they showed a very unique miter clamp set. You probably have to buy it in Austria but it was a straight screw type horizontal rod about 6-8 inches long that fit into a horizontal short rod on each end. Those fit into holes you drilled into the back of the frame on each side of the miter and then you somehow tightened the rod from the center to snug up each miter. Very simple but unique clamp that I had never seen before watching the video.

    Hope per you enjoy the set from Lee Valley.

  6. #21
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    If you do not need a lot of pressure, you may be able to use magnets on a piece of sheet steel to block things in place.

  7. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chris Padilla View Post
    This where I like to use a biscuit or a Domino or spline or what-have-you to reinforce the joint.
    Actually, I find it easier and just as strong to coat both sides with glue.
    Lee Schierer
    USNA '71
    Go Navy!

    My advice, comments and suggestions are free, but it costs money to run the site. If you found something of value here please give a little something back by becoming a contributor! Please Contribute

  8. #23
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    Bill I use the lee Valley rod thing too. One tip is I put wing nuts on the end of each rod to keep the knurly knobs from sliding off and disappearing.

  9. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stan Calow View Post
    Bill I use the lee Valley rod thing too. One tip is I put wing nuts on the end of each rod to keep the knurly knobs from sliding off and disappearing.
    Thanks, I will remember that one when it gets here.

  10. #25
    I clamp frame pieces to a worktop, which can be as simple as a piece of plywood on top of a couple of saw horses. I put packing tape on the plywood where the joints will squeeze out glue. You can also cut a square the size of the interior of the frame and then clamp things down and together as needed around this piece. This not only clamps the miter, but also keeps the frame from "rolling" under the force of the clamps. Splines or slip joints also can help avoid the rolling, strengthen the joint, and aid in alignment.

    Frames are difficult. Mitres are difficult. It is not an easy glue up. Sometimes people think they should be easy and they become frustrated when they find that they are actually quite difficult.

    Good luck.

  11. #26
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    Bill, check out this clamp http://miterclamp.com/ It looks like it could be used for what you want. I always have trouble with molding 45's and am thinking about it. Dan
    Last edited by Dan Rude; 06-12-2014 at 11:15 PM. Reason: sp

  12. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Paul Kasman View Post
    I clamp frame pieces to a worktop, which can be as simple as a piece of plywood on top of a couple of saw horses. I put packing tape on the plywood where the joints will squeeze out glue. You can also cut a square the size of the interior of the frame and then clamp things down and together as needed around this piece. This not only clamps the miter, but also keeps the frame from "rolling" under the force of the clamps. Splines or slip joints also can help avoid the rolling, strengthen the joint, and aid in alignment.

    Frames are difficult. Mitres are difficult. It is not an easy glue up. Sometimes people think they should be easy and they become frustrated when they find that they are actually quite difficult.

    Good luck.
    I'm trying to figure out how to glue up a 3" mitred picture frame. This sounds like a great technique without having to buy anything else. Question, is glue on the end grains enough to hold the joint??? Any other techniques?

    Thanks
    Last edited by Mark W Pugh; 12-09-2014 at 9:00 PM.

  13. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stan Calow View Post
    Bill I use the lee Valley rod thing too. One tip is I put wing nuts on the end of each rod to keep the knurly knobs from sliding off and disappearing.
    Now you tell me.

    I have one, used it once, was very happy - and then lost one of the knobs.
    I love mankind. It's people I can't stand.

  14. #29
    I have the threaded rods and the only thing I don't like is how slow the set up is.
    Mike Null

    St. Louis Laser, Inc.

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  15. #30
    Quote Originally Posted by Mark W Pugh View Post
    I'm trying to figure out how to glue up a 3" mitred picture frame. This sounds like a great technique without having to buy anything else. Question, is glue on the end grains enough to hold the joint??? Any other techniques?

    Thanks
    I haven't done picture frames, but I've done a few window casings by gluing them up on a MFT/3 table. I've used a biscuit to hold them with good luck (so far I've resisted buying a domino).

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