Shooting Planes - Are they worth it?

[Derek Cohen]

John, as you say, it is a subjective topic.

I have used every variety of shooting board and shooting plane, and have written extensively on them. A shooting board is important for me to finesse a fitting, especially drawers. A dedicated shooting plane is a bonus - I do not believe that one is essential, but it is a boon if you can afford it. There are other planes I place ahead of one, for sure. It comes down to personal priorities.

I have demonstrated that the LV LA Jack can be a nicer and better experience than a dedicated shooting plane, such as the (no-longer-made) LN mitre plane #9. It depends on technique. And then, a shooting plane, such as the LN #51, is a real step up from both these, especially when in a dedicated shooting board (rather than one which is also used for other purposes). This is because the #51-varieties have a difference balance point, and require a side rail to track straight. I am fortunate to own both the LN #51 and the Veritas Shooting Plane, and can use either on a Stanley #52 shooting board. I think that the LN is a stunningly beautiful plane. However the Veritas lives on my shooting board as it is a better user. Review here: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolRev...tingPlane.html

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Larry Frank]

I use a LN 4-1/2 as a shooting plane and works for me.

[Rob Luter]

I use a LV Low Angle Jack with a 25* iron for a shooting plane. It works well, although the A2 iron is subject to micro chipping when I shoot White Oak. Perhaps a new PM-V11 iron next time LV has free shipping

Like Jim, I was really taken by the dedicated shooting planes. The combination of the Low Angle and Skewed Iron really makes short work on end grain. I can't rationalize the cost currently, but if I start making things with length critical parts like drawers I might consider one

[glenn bradley]

I ran a LV LAJ for some time.

SB-Guide-Rail-3.jpg

I had the dedicated plane on my wish list for some time and Santa Clause brought it one year.

Shootingboard v2 (4).jpg

I also have a little bevel shooter for small boxes.

Shooting Board miter acc (6).jpg

The value will be directly proportional to what you do with it. If you haven't 'needed' one yet, I'd say you are doing fine without it.

[Michael Bulatowicz]

Perhaps a new PM-V11 iron next time LV has free shipping

You're in luck: that day's today (http://www.leevalley.com/us/home/page.aspx?p=60912). Here comes my new combination plane and blades

[Rob Luter]

[JohnM Martin]

John, as you say, it is a subjective topic.

I have used every variety of shooting board and shooting plane, and have written extensively on them. A shooting board is important for me to finesse a fitting, especially drawers. A dedicated shooting plane is a bonus - I do not believe that one is essential, but it is a boon if you can afford it. There are other planes I place ahead of one, for sure. It comes down to personal priorities.

I have demonstrated that the LV LA Jack can be a nicer and better experience than a dedicated shooting plane, such as the (no-longer-made) LN mitre plane #9. It depends on technique. And then, a shooting plane, such as the LN #51, is a real step up from both these, especially when in a dedicated shooting board (rather than one which is also used for other purposes). This is because the #51-varieties have a difference balance point, and require a side rail to track straight. I am fortunate to own both the LN #51 and the Veritas Shooting Plane, and can use either on a Stanley #52 shooting board. I think that the LN is a stunningly beautiful plane. However the Veritas lives on my shooting board as it is a better user. Review here: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolRev...tingPlane.html

Regards from Perth

Derek

Wow, Derek, what a great write up. Thanks for passing it along. Based on your findings, it seems my intuition is headed in the right direction. Now, just time to save the pennies.

[Warren Mickley]

I think you want to buy a double iron plane rather than a shooting board plane. In fact here are probably lots of other planes that would better increase your capabilities.

I recommend shooting end grain in a vise. Knife the board all the way around, bevel the far end, and plane to the knife line. With this traditional method, you can control the amount of skew you want. This will help develop your skill and eventually be the most efficient way.

I have been to eight Lie Nielsen events, but I have never seen surfaces that strike me as high quality. I don't know whether it is the sharpening or steel or what.

[Charles Guest]

Knifing deeply against an accurate square and shooting upright in a vice will produce the square end you need. Generally end grain shouldn't show in any great quantity so there's no need to aim for a pristine, show surface in most cases, not that planing upright can't produce one when necessary.

If you can square a line around a workpiece with a knife, there is no confusion what or where square is. Those who assert that you should knife a line and use a shooting board are missing the point of the board in the first place.

Summary: you can do without a shooting board quite easily.

[Derek Cohen]

Summary: you can do without a shooting board quite easily.

There are many ways to skin a cat.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[steven c newman]

Seems a lot of cash to spend, on a one trick pony of a plane.

[Jim Koepke]

Seems a lot of cash to spend, on a one trick pony of a plane.

When one trick has so many angles it becomes a pretty valuable trick.

As Derek said, "Thera are many ways to skin a cat."

jtk

[Charles Guest]

When one trick has so many angles it becomes a pretty valuable trick.

As Derek said, "Thera are many ways to skin a cat."

jtk

If you can strike a line you can plane to it or so I was told within the first month or so of my apprenticeship, and to an unlimited number of angles, all you need is a combination square, a bevel square, a vice, and the plane of your choice, all of which every woodworker already has. A shooting board and a special plane to go with it just become shiny trinkets.

Using one effectively is no argument for it. I'm quite sure I could use an expensive European combination machine that costs $30K+ quite effectively but that by no means is a per se argument for owning one given the alternatives.

Keep your kit simple.

But if you find yourself in a production hand tool shop (say hello to Mr. Chippendale for me) by all means set up a board or even several boards and have at it.