I had a special request from Brian Buckner for a acme thread 1/2-10
Been about 10 years since I cut an acme and having the thread stop against a should is nerve racking
I'll post more tomorrow when I finish the head..
I had a special request from Brian Buckner for a acme thread 1/2-10
Been about 10 years since I cut an acme and having the thread stop against a should is nerve racking
I'll post more tomorrow when I finish the head..
Last edited by Johnny Kleso; 08-29-2008 at 8:23 PM.
aka rarebear - Hand Planes 101 - RexMill - The Resource
Ah Johnny, that is just beautiful work - as always!
Regards from Perth
Derek
Here is the finished screw, took about 3 hours with one of those hours for grinding the threading tool...
They are finish polished with Jewelers Rouge (Tripoli) which is RED (Rouge in French) in Color
Anyone have any question on how I made them be happy to answer them for you...
aka rarebear - Hand Planes 101 - RexMill - The Resource
Tony,
I post a how to make one tomorrow I think most will not really understand what Im saying but I'll try to explain how I made it..
aka rarebear - Hand Planes 101 - RexMill - The Resource
Did you set the compound at half the side angle?
Jr.
Hand tools are very modern- they are all cordless
NORMAL is just a setting on the washing machine.
Be who you are and say what you feel... because those that matter... don't mind...and those that mind...don't matter!
By Hammer and Hand All Arts Do Stand
Hi Phil,
The Lever Cap hole is Tapped and Brian has Tandem style tap (pictured below) where I have a progressive four tap set that I use each of the four taps one after another..
Acme Taps are very expensive about 10x the cost of a standard V tap.. This the same style used to thread wood..
This is like two taps in a row..
aka rarebear - Hand Planes 101 - RexMill - The Resource
Very nice work, Johnny. I'm interested in seeing the how-to.
I've been wondering lately if it's possible to cast a decent acme-style lever cap screw in brass or bronze.
GR
How To Make a Acme Lever Cap Screw...
I recieved this drawing from Brian,
I used 1" bronze stock I bought at eBay that was just long enough at 2.300 long..
I heald it in a three jaw chuck by the head and faced and center drilled with a very small #1 center drill..
I then tuned the thread major diameter of .495 and ground my threading tool or 29 1/2* with a flat sized for a 10 tip thread..
I made a under cut between head and thread for my tool have have a safe space to stop..
I set up late to cut 10 tpi by changing gears and setting compound to 14 3/4*
I set compound to zero and blued thread diameter
I touched OD and set cross slide to zero, now all zeros are set..
I feed compund in .002 and and wait for chasing dial to line up with any line as 10 tip is an even thread if and odd # thread I must line it up with a number line only..
I pull up easy on 1/2 nut handle a 1/8"-1/4" before line on chasing dial is lines up and if slides in right on line easily..
The hairy part is not stopping before I crash at shoulder.. I slam 1/2 nut out and back off cross slide and move carrage back down for another pass by feeding in compound another .002 and reset cross slide to zero.. I repeat this about 30 times till a piece of 1" brass I drilled and tapped fits thread I am cutting well..
I then fill off burrs before tests and when it fits I hack saw a slot down my brass gauge and now use it to hold threads in chuck..
I turn heads OD to 7/8" I face and with form tools make the hump detail called a Sarcens Cap ..
I how use a sigle wheel of a knurling tool which forms the knurl by pressing hard on 7/8" diameter..
I then add some chamfers and with a V tool add three lines around knurled OD ..
I flip part in chuck and add chamfer to end of thread and file a small raidus..
Part is finished execpt for polishing on rag wheel with Tripoli Rouge
aka rarebear - Hand Planes 101 - RexMill - The Resource
I notice you use a 3 jaw. What kind of accuracy can you achieve with it as compared to a 4 jaw?
-Ryan C.
Ryan,
My chuck has a about a .003 run out a four jaw in metal working has indenpendent jaws (chuck key only moves one jaw) so you can dial part right into zero but it may take several mins. not seconds..
So if the head of the screw has a .003 run out who cares..
aka rarebear - Hand Planes 101 - RexMill - The Resource
That's kinda what I figured. I'm taking a class right now and we're learning on the four jaw.
It's neat to see your lathe work!
-Ryan C.
4 Jaws are the most versatile..
Ask your teacher about Face Plate work and Tool Makers Buttons..
About 80 years ago there was no milling machines like Bridgeports and all precission drilling and boring was done on a lathe face plate or 4 jaw..
You layout your holes and center punch them
Then drill and tap them 10-32 and screw in the Toolmaker Buttons ( kind of like a ball with a 10-32 thread) now with hieght gauge you check to see exacty what your offsets are to have the button exacty where you want it .. Now you indicate your button in on the lathe to match your off sets..
using a Bridgeport milling machine is so much less work then the old guys I worked with when I was an apprentice
4 jaws help you to learn how to indicate parts in..
On my three jaw I use a piece of soda can under the hign spot jaw to zero parts in that matter..
aka rarebear - Hand Planes 101 - RexMill - The Resource
[quote=Johnny Kleso;916558]I had a special request from Brian Buckner for a acme thread 1/2-10
I would be interested to know what kind of lathe and mill a woodworker could get to learn metal working. And not break the bank. Cheap but good.