Green woodworking for me, and mainly getting good with a drawknife. Just seems like a way to learn to really work with the material rather than against it. I've been trending in that direction, and I don't think I want to go totally green, but having that experience and understanding I think would help with other types of work.
I'm not a luthier but have done even extensive repairs on violins owned here.
Always thought it would be fun to make a cello.
But as a woodworker, the older i get, the more time i want to devote to the things i really like doing, and did not do when working.
So, I ski/teach skiing all winter, work on the house almost full time after the snow goes away, and mess about with little airplanes when finances permit, into the fall.
Plus travel more often with wife.
The possibly attainable skills/goals are building a pair of mogul skis.
Finish my (non-wooden) airplane project before they shovel dirt on me.
If it arises that i can't physically do those 2 yet still have reasonable health, mental capacity & somewhat remaining dexterous capabilities, i always thought i might make more pool cues and woodworking planes at such time as i got "old"
And spend more time in the machine shop.
smt
I sat through a seminar at one of the woodworking shows a few years back. came home and ordered a burnisher a fresh flat file and a few cards. I get the idea but the bur always ends up inconsistant. Ill file off the work hardened stuff,then run the burnisher as im supposed to and ill end up with a half an edge on each side. You're right I just have to keep at it, i just havent had the oppurtunity. My garage time is broken by 4 and 6 year old girls
I’m sure you already know this but worth mentioning that first step is to flatten any exsisting burr with burnished before filing. After filing be sure to use stones to smooth both the vertical and horizontal surfaces of scraper that form the edge before burnishing.
Mike, steam bending is not that difficult. In fact, the "set up" is the easy part. The box is easy to make and does not require exacting construction. The Earlex steamer is an economical and effective way to generate the steam.
The tricky part with steam bending is having a source of green and riven stock.
It's a very rewarding process that has [pretentious comment alert] "changed my understanding of and relationship to wood".
Check our Curtiss Buchanan. He's got a wonderful, humble way of presenting things.
Last edited by Prashun Patel; 06-13-2024 at 9:32 AM.
More of a finishing technique than a woodworking skill, but I would love how to do gilding, water gilding in particular. I've done small things here and there, but to do it well requires a whole set of skills that I would like to build.
DC
I want the handskills of Mike Allen.
Regards from Perth
Derek
This could be the start of a challenge! Try something new and post the results - perfection is not expected.
I just thought of something else I’ve never tried - cutting dovetails without laying out the spacing and angles. I’d feel pretty accomplished if I could just lay out my baselines, cut my tails, and end up with well-spaced, consistent results. I may knock up a little box and report back…
It is a mandolin. The sides are bent with a quick dip in water followed by heat. The bending form has a Watlow heater under the strap. Thicker for the letters would have been good. I think I have some go through on the W. The back is .090" thick, the letters are .024" thick.
A fun idea Ben. I think I have seen videos of Frank Klaus doing that. I think repetition is the key - he said that they would dovetail shipping boxes together to save nails. I think many Neanders love the idea of hand tool work but just never get enough practice to be exceptional. I suppose when you use your tools to put food on the table, you become skilled out of necessity.. Few earn their living that way nowadays.
I do not even know the dovetail language yet. I think they look prettier when the layout lines have been removed from the finished work.
I appreciate your perspective Maurice- removing layout marks seems pretty standard. However, I personally like to leave the baseline marking gauge line because it confirms the DT’s were hand cut. Jig or machine doesn’t require baseline layout. In the same way, I like finding layout marks on non show sides of antiques- connection to craftsman of previous era.
Cheers, Mike