Seeking Suggestions For a One-Part Glue to Replace Epoxy

[Scott Memmer]

Howdy, folks. I've laser-engraved this product, then filled it with epoxy colored with mica powder. Is there a glue out there that dries clear that I can use for this job instead of epoxy? All the muss and fuss of mixing and stirring is not a deal-breaker, but it's close. A single-part adhesive that would set within 24 hours is a winner. Thanks, Scott

conch casein.jpg

[Maurice Mcmurry]

Two part resins are admired because they are adhesive and cohesive simultaneously. I have not come across any one part product that is a true gap filler. I might try clear, non foaming, Gorilla Glue but have doubts that it will be as good as epoxy.

Perhaps colored Bondic (if it exists)?

Perhaps an inlay of CNC or laser cut soft rubber?

I like the engraving. I tried various things to improve my technique and keep the pick in place without using a death grip. I sometimes smear something sticky on the pick, a tiny drop of rubber cement, maple syrup, adhesive scraped off of duct tape... Perhaps pine tar in the shamrock would create the worlds best pick.

[John TenEyck]

Howdy, folks. I've laser-engraved this product, then filled it with epoxy colored with mica powder. Is there a glue out there that dries clear that I can use for this job instead of epoxy? All the muss and fuss of mixing and stirring is not a deal-breaker, but it's close. A single-part adhesive that would set within 24 hours is a winner. Thanks, Scott

conch casein.jpg

That's pretty impressive, Scott. I'd be interested to know how you got that pattern. By hand?

Anyway, CA glue is clear and should work. I think there's a slow set version, too.

John

[Scott Memmer]

Hi, Everyone. I'm slammed in meetings all day, but wanted to acknowledge your responses and let you know that I'll get back on here within 24 hours. Thanks so much,

Scott

[Scott Memmer]

Two part resins are admired because they are adhesive and cohesive simultaneously. I have not come across any one part product that is a true gap filler. I might try clear, non foaming, Gorilla Glue but have doubts that it will be as good as epoxy.

Perhaps colored Bondic (if it exists)?

Perhaps an inlay of CNC or laser cut soft rubber?

I like the engraving. I tried various things to improve my technique and keep the pick in place without using a death grip. I sometimes smear something sticky on the pick, a tiny drop of rubber cement, maple syrup, adhesive scraped off of duct tape... Perhaps pine tar in the shamrock would create the worlds best pick.

Maurice, sorry for my delay in getting back. Busy, busy.

I like epoxy and don't mind using it. What I'm struggling with is an epoxy that gives me an adequate amount of set time and dries clear and hard.

I tried this one:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BKGDPMHT...roduct_details

It had a very slow cure rate, which was perfect for my job. However, even after 48 hours it is not completely cured. In fact, even after a week, I can still press a fingernail on it and dent is slightly.

I also tried a standard clear epoxy with a 5-minute set rate, and that does not give me enough time. I tried to do twenty of these and it gummed up halfway through the job.

Is there a quality epoxy out there that has a 30-60 minute set time, 24-hour cure rate, and hardens rock-hard?

Thanks Very Much,
Scott

[Scott Memmer]

John, hi. Actually, we bought that material with the pattern built-in, 6000 miles away. We scour the planet for cool stuff.

sm

[Jim Becker]

If you need longer working time, the better resin providers, like Total Boat, West Systems, etc., all have different hardeners that have different working time, largely pointed at how deep the pour will be. (deep pours require a very long cure time because resin cures via an exothermic process and you do not want to start a fire) So for a production setup, you can certainly use the longer curing, deeper pour capable product...there's no rule that says you can only use it for deep pours. BUT...you also need to be able to put your workpieces in a stable place so they can cure without being disturbed for a longer period of time.

[Scott Memmer]

If you need longer working time, the better resin providers, like Total Boat, West Systems, etc., all have different hardeners that have different working time, largely pointed at how deep the pour will be. (deep pours require a very long cure time because resin cures via an exothermic process and you do not want to start a fire) So for a production setup, you can certainly use the longer curing, deeper pour capable product...there's no rule that says you can only use it for deep pours. BUT...you also need to be able to put your workpieces in a stable place so they can cure without being disturbed for a longer period of time.

Hi, Jim, thanks for your response.

I can agree to all those conditions, and my pours are very shallow (less than 1.0 mm / .040"), but what puzzled me was this slow-setting Epoxy STILL hasn't completely hardened and it's now been an entire week. I can dent the top of the "set" glue with my thumbnail.

Now, for my application this isn't a major concern, Jim, but I was just curious about this. I've been working with Epoxy since I was a kid, and every one I've ever worked with was hard as a rock once it cured.

Thanks,
Scott

[Jim Becker]

In many cases, a "soft" cure is because of the resin/hardener ratio being off and it doesn't take much. It's really hard to get this perfect with small batches, too, because any variance is amplified. In some cases, the volume is correct for the ratio, but the mixing is flawed, leaving some of the components not well mixed. It's a dance...