One item I have added to sharpening knives..stainless or otherwise...
Comes in it's own leather sheath, that also doubles as a handle...
Schrade
OLD-TIMER
Honesteel
Found mine at a yard sale.....I think Schrade still sells them?
One item I have added to sharpening knives..stainless or otherwise...
Comes in it's own leather sheath, that also doubles as a handle...
Schrade
OLD-TIMER
Honesteel
Found mine at a yard sale.....I think Schrade still sells them?
A Planer? I'm the Planer, and this is what I use
I've been using SAK's for 30 years. My everyday knife is one of my most frequently used tools. It takes a good edge and holds it. I don't whittle or carve with it and I use the blade for work that most people would use a utility knife for.
Mike Null
St. Louis Laser, Inc.
Trotec Speedy 300, 80 watt
Gravograph IS400
Woodworking shop CLTT and Laser Sublimation
Dye Sublimation
CorelDraw X5, X7
Cheaper stainless knives are usually pretty soft but you can get them sharp, almost always. As Luke D mentioned, the issue is often the factory edge which is over-buffed. It can take a lot more honing than you'd expect to establish a good edge initially. On your second attempt you raised a significant burr, which is a sign that you've re-established the edge. You probably didn't quite get there the first time. I love oil stones, but the waterstones will get them plenty sharp as well.
As an aside, I like a coarser finish on pocket knives since they are typically used in a slicing cut. A coarser finish lasts a bit longer with slicing than a highly polished edge. It's the opposite with a push cut, which is why we go to high grits on chisels and planes.