I'll have to look at it again. I know it wasn't perfect but it was close. I want to say it was within a 32nd of an inch.
I'll have to look at it again. I know it wasn't perfect but it was close. I want to say it was within a 32nd of an inch.
I know it was even until the last 15" of board length, then it was like an 1/8" narrower.
Sounds like your fence might have some flex in it as the board is 5 or 6 feet past the fence on the out feed side, there is a lot of leverage that can deflect the fence causing you this issue. I have this on my Jet Contractor saw fence. My solution, I use a clamp on the out feed side of the fence to hold it down to the rail providing more a more rigid fence. Is it ideal, no, but it works for now until I get myself a better fence or upgrade to a sawstop.
When something isn’t working correctly, something isn’t correct. If something feels unsafe, it probably is. In your case I would start at the beginning. Check your saw alignment, get yourself some outfeed support, make or buy push sticks/blocks to handle various operations.
Under no circumstances am I hanging a 2x12x 8’ off the back end of a table saw right at the moment my hands are close to the blade, push block or no push block. Your instincts are correct, this is a good way to have an accident.
There are several factors that can and are contributing to your cutting issue. I don’t see any reference to stock prep. Personally, I don’t run any solid lumber through my table saw unless it’s been joined; flat on one face, square on one side. Even then, I prefer the bandsaw. If you’ve got all the guards in place, it’s probably okay, but don’t expect great cut quality.
It's set right I checked it. I don't have a jointer yet, but my featherboard will be here today.
The fence does deflect a little bit. It's a beismeyer too.
You should have less of a problem with this when you start working with better material. Construction grade 2x lumber is actually harder to work with than properly dried hardwoods...it moves a lot, is inconsistent in dimensions, may be more prone to binding and/or kickback as a result etc. Yes, it's relatively inexpensive and a nice place to start. You may want to consider sourcing some tulip poplar from a local source as an alternative. It's also relatively lower cost, machines well and is very adaptable to a lot of different purposes and finishes.
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The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...
It would take quite a bit of force to make a Beisemeyer Commercial fence deviate that much. I would look for a feed path error. Are you getting saw tooth marks on the edge? Are they more pronounced where the result is narrower? On longer stock support at the infeed and outfeed gets more important. The tablesaw blade and fence are fixed in space. The material has to move through the cut without deviation for a true result. There is always a little deviation if only from stress release in the material but, well within tolerance most of the time.
When feeding long (or any) stock it is normal to use the push block near the fence, who wouldn't . However, even with feather boards this can cause path deviation due to the leverage from heavy material.
Feed Path Deviation.jpg
Even roller stands can try to change the feed direction if they are not lined up well. I use waxed solid surface supports or swivel casters to avoid this. It makes setting up your supports much less fussy.
Last edited by glenn bradley; 02-27-2020 at 9:58 AM.
"A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".
– Samuel Butler
Another thought, do you have a splitter or riving knife on your saw? That should help prevent the board from moving away from the fence.
Are the splitters universal? Like will the one that went on my jet work for the delta?
The splitters are not "Universal", although it is possible that some different brands of table saws might take the same splitter, particularly if the saw in question is an Asian "Clone" of another make and model of saw.
David