Ex-SCM and Felder rep
Apologies for the snarky remark, now that I reread your post several times I have a little more context for a reply instead of a quick glance and a stupid reply.
I mostly use my slider with solid although in the past mostly all sheet goods, a lot of times my solid processing is similar to yours, just using hand pressure and eyeballing for the kerf ( I think that's what you mean?).
I have found that Pneumatic Clamps can help a tremendous amount, I wasn’t a total believer as I have always just held the wood in place and never had a problem. Once I built my Pneumatic clamps I would never go back, I don’t use them all the time like when breaking down full sheets but for solid wood they excel - the finished cuts are better, quick/easy to do angle cuts and safer too. I also have Felders parallel fence, haven’t had a need for it much but is useful. Photos of some setups below.
1st photo I am using the rip fence as a bump stop set at the depth of the groove on this reclaimed cherry flooring so I can quickly rip them off.
2nd photo is just a quick setup to to cut a bunch of angles on the same size blocks
3rd photo I was just experimenting, I haven't had a need to do this
(In the last photo with the feather boards, the clamp base was temporary, it was laminated solid oak to my surprise it was actually robust enough if I hadn’t got a machinist at work started on the aluminum ones I probably would have just used them).
Also just to be clear these are not Mac’s clamps, his have more features, uses all premium materials and Mac provides product support like no other from what I have seen and read - you won’t find a more refined or well thought out one.
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Last edited by Mark e Kessler; 01-31-2020 at 2:40 PM.
Mark -- Not to hijack the thread, but could you give a little more detail on the ZCI you made for your slider. I need to come up with something similar for mine.
Thanks.
There is a very fine line between “hobby” and “mental illness.” - Dave Barry
Chris, brilliant jig ! I think we all appreciate this benefit of a slider, i.e to straighten an edge, when the other side is not straight as well. Your jig allows the same... albeit, u still need equal space on each side of the saw as a slider will.
My quesiton is... when you load the wood onto the slider, 70%+ of the weight of the slider is hanging off the TS. How do you support the jig so it's not constantly encumbered by the supports?
I have to get a straight edge on hundreds of 2x4s to acheive a flat wall for sheet rock, for a staggered stud wall. So the loss of some of the 3.5" dimension is a non issue. I was thinking of using my single piece long Festool rail, but when the boards are not flat, this is problematic for a rail. Your slider on my cabinet saw might be the ideal solution...
I need to buy a new one, bought mine new 28 years ago What did you buy Steve, likes/dislikes? You can Messsage on FB if you would rather, sorry. Have been thinking about one of those Lamello gizmos, just picked up a couple more kitchens, almost no construction any more, and I keep coming up with real world uses for it as I do different things. If I get one I will get ahold of you and send you some made up joints to play with. Larry
Thanks Steve. I appreciate learning various techniques.
I have had several sliders over the last 20 years, but have never used them for much more than sheet goods, and I am finally taking a few steps further into the slider world with a MM Combo machine I recently got. I have searched for any postings, or videos available, saving them as I found them.
I can hardly wait to see your other 41 tutorials.
Rick Potter
DIY journeyman,
FWW wannabe.
AKA Village Idiot.
No worries Mark, I'm not offended. Nice saw you have! The reason I was using the technique I posted was for speed. If I am going for perfect precision, especially on longer stock, I add a clamp or two to the carriage. I don't have air clamps, just the Felder manual ones. There was a pretty good pile of face frame to process for those cabinets I was working on, so I wanted to just set up once and not mess with anything. The way I posted allows that, and with very good speed. You could definitely use clamps instead of hand pressure. Your air clamps are faster than my manual ones, they wouldn't slow you down much once you got it setup.
Hi Larry! This is a Felder CF741. It's a combo machine that I got years ago when I was in a smaller space. I would not go with combo again for a production shop, but it's fine for serious hobby type work. I saw your post on the Lamello thread and have been pondering the same. If you do get one, heck yes I'd like to see some of what it does. Expensive little gadgets, want to make sure they aren't just dust magnets in the shop. Last year for me was all remodels and additions, not much cabinet shop time, this year has already made me tired of being in my windowless shop. Funny how things change year to year.
Put some windows in your shop! But I know what you mean, when the temps get down in the 0 range I have styrofoam covers I put on the inside till spring, drives me nuts.
Steve, do you by chance use a power feeder on your machine? Reason I ask because one of my local guys took delivery of his KF not too long ago and ordered the tipper bracket with a gas piston. There apparently are two versions of tipper bracket. One with piston (newer) and the old style, which I assumed they all were. Anyhow, we got this piston-assisted one installed and you can literally swing over a 4-wheel feeder with one had. It was unbelievable.
Erik
Ex-SCM and Felder rep
I positioned my SawStop with 8' of out feed clearance without having to open my garage door. I have about 60" of outfeed support beyond the blade. If I need more outfeed I have to open the garage door and use a support roller.
For the infeed side, I purchased one of the scissor roller stands from Woodcraft ($200). It was expensive, but it has come in handy for ripping sheet goods as well. I made some leg extensions to give it a bit more height for resawing support on my bandsaw.
I can back this away from the saw and comfortably support 12', even though my jig is not long enough for that.
Sure, I used 19mm BB and cut the “L” shape on the saw. I used the one that came with the saw as the template to drill the hole locations and route the curves using double stick tape, I just used a tap for the set screws. I took the riving knife off and ran the blade up through the blank I then took it lowered the blade all the way installed the original insert flipped the zci face down adjusted the rip fence so the kerf lined up and raised the blade up to extend the kerf for the riving knife. Probably safer to do it with a jigsaw though. Here are a few extra pics
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