OK Andrew and Derek, thanks. I have some experience with shellac, so I'll definitely include that on my test sticks. As I recall, sanding is recommended after every coat, is that right? If so, then I'd want to be sure to shellac before glue-up.
OK Andrew and Derek, thanks. I have some experience with shellac, so I'll definitely include that on my test sticks. As I recall, sanding is recommended after every coat, is that right? If so, then I'd want to be sure to shellac before glue-up.
Bob, I do not sand between coats of shellac. There is no real grain-raising. However I use a grey pad (400 grit) to denib the surface.
Regards from Perth
Derek
I'll comment on the finishing before or after assembly part. I often pre-finish some parts or sub-assemblies. There is no voo-doo to my process. Anything that will be hard to reach or troublesome to apply finish to gets pre-finished. This goes for any movement mechanisms like floating panels as well. Tape will keep finish off tenons and foam 'backer rod' works great for mortise corks.
"A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".
– Samuel Butler
I would get a piece of wood and experiment before I committed to the system.
Same as Phil Mueller says. I seldom use BLO or other oil finishes. But if I do (on cherry) I first lay down several very thinned coats of shellac to prevent/minimize blotching. As Phil said: don't use oil on interiors.
I've got a butternut recipe box I made in 7th grade (early 80s) with a hinged lid. We finished it with some kind of Danish oil. The inside still smells like Danish oil.
Lowell, darn right. If there’s anything I’ve learned from this thread, any of several methods can work, and some can turn out unfavorably. I’ll be using some of the offcuts for finishing tests.
Yes, prefinish (oil) BEFORE assembly where it is an issue (panels subject to expansion) and Shellac only for interior..others will smell and it lasts forever IMHO..
Jerry