Here is the light. Wolo (3105-B) Beacon Light Rotating Emergency Warning Light - 12 Volt, Blue Lens https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BNKTW0..._ILU3BbW9XZXNB
Nothing is connected to white wire.
Here is the light. Wolo (3105-B) Beacon Light Rotating Emergency Warning Light - 12 Volt, Blue Lens https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BNKTW0..._ILU3BbW9XZXNB
Nothing is connected to white wire.
why not use this sensor? It is cheaper and might be my option once I have exhausted all others to get my current sensor working.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008MU23QO...v_ov_lig_dp_it
Current draw from the bulb used in that beacon is 7.54W at 13V (LINK). At 12V by my calculations that means 628mA current draw. As I mentioned in the first post the max current draw on the output of the Banner sensor is 120mA. So thats one problem.
Second, I asked if anything was connected to the BEIGE wire. I couldnt really tell for sure from the images you posted. And thats good with the white wire, nothing should be connected there.
My suggestion, pick up one of the recommended lights I used in the OP. They are available in blue as well if thats what you like. Use the link I posted in the OP.
If at first you don't succeed, redefine success!
Larger power supply will not help. That light/strobe you are using is, from my understanding, drawing more current than the transistor in the banner sensor can sustain providing. You need a MUCH lower current draw light, like the one I posted and Oneida uses, or you need to come up with a different/additional circuit to have the Banner output trigger and that can handle powering the larger load.
If at first you don't succeed, redefine success!
Yup, it is either causing the transistor (NPN or PNP) switch in the Banner to temporarily fail or you have already smoked it. I had to take the same care when I built my DC autogates. Since I trigger/power the solenoid air valves directly, I needed current sensor switches that had transistor switches rated for the solenoid coil current draw at the supply voltage.
Thanks for all the hard work you have put into this project. I just ordered the sensor from China for $20 along with the recommended strobe. I will be hooking this up to a CV1800 that will hopefully be winging its way to me shortly.
As I understand it, the CV1800 comes with a 110v relay/contactor (I did not buy their electrical box). What would be a suitable solution to wire this such that the sensor will shut off the DC? Could I use a 12V relay to control the 110V circuit that drives the contactor for the 220 circuit? That seems a little 'clunky'. I would also like to incorporate a remote start feature.
Thanks!
Christopher,
The photo of the power cube is a little blurry, Does that power cube out put AC voltage or DC voltage?
I have the same unit and used a Direct Current power Supply. This maybe your problem if it is Alternating current.
on one of my setups(Dust collectors) I used a Harbor Freight free Led Light as the signal device and an old smoke detector for the audible alarm.
The mods to the HF light is on this thread or the other DC thread.
Lane
I have finally given up on using the banner sensor. It has not worked from the start. I have contacted banner and the eBay seller with no results. I will update on my now sensor when I get it. It is only $14 off Amazon.
My Banner sensor worked fine during setup and testing and did not detect a full blockage. Looking for another sensor.
I installed the Oneida stock sensor for a friend and was not happy with it. Seemed as though the sensor would trip fine dust and would go off unless the adjustment was set to about 3”. What are the other sensor options? I’ll be installing on a CV1800 with electrical box in the next couple months. I’ll do some homework on the CV forum too. Nice work everyone!
I thought i did. I read rumblings of a sensor that could tie into the CV1800 cyclone to turn it off. I’ll go through it again.