I'd glue up the radiused corners out of several thin plys of what ever your wood is. Then your grain will wrap, and won't need the bread board. I don't care for the seasonal movement of the bread board. Probably use dominoes to join.
Nelson
I'd glue up the radiused corners out of several thin plys of what ever your wood is. Then your grain will wrap, and won't need the bread board. I don't care for the seasonal movement of the bread board. Probably use dominoes to join.
Nelson
Is there anyway to do this with a secret miter dovetail? Outside would be easy but I cannot see a way to do the inside short of adding a shaped piece. Of course just because I can’t see a way doesn’t mean the folks here can’t.
A solid corner piece is going to require a decision that I wouldn't envy you: either you have to have a grain mismatch, with the corner piece running at 90 degrees to the face or you're going to have to come up with a most unusual piece to have the grain "wrap around" the corner. That could be rather hard to find and quite expensive. I begin to think the lamination route may not be quite so crazy. (But then again, I do a lot of work in laminating, so I don't find it quite so crazy to begin with.)
Of course, I'd cheat: I'd laminate veneers (1/16" or so) over a solid core. That way, I can use a simple piece for the core and my only difficulty would be slicing and finishing the shop made veneers. I assume if I can find stock for the top and bottom of the table, I can also find suitable matching stock to slice the veneer. And, of course, working in Jarrah, slicing the veneer is going to be a tough task. I use a carbide toothed blade on my band saw for resawing anyway, so with care it should be doable. Slowly, I suspect. If I ever get my hands on any Jarrah, maybe I'll give it a try.
Last edited by James Waldron; 11-04-2018 at 12:03 PM.
Fair winds and following seas,
Jim Waldron
Derek, thinking a bit more about this I think it can be done with a full blind dovetail. Milling out the inside surfaces of the boards leaving enough for a radius and rounding over the outside.
Downside being the amount of short grain in the joint.
I think the crossgrain joint is much better suited to plywood panels.
Bumbling forward into the unknown.
I think it must be this one: https://www.instagram.com/p/BpfgiZWgEZI/
I would crosscut @ 45degrees a thick board with the grain running the same direction as the top. Square up the tips of the 45's the thickness of the boards joining it. Then cove the inside corner. Biscuit the pieces, registering on the outsides, and then glue it together. When the clamps are off you can radius the outside corners. Don't like/have the biscuits. then Dominos, loose splines, mortice and tenon, dowels will all work instead.
Yep, you miter the case. The joinery is loose tenon using tenons shaped into an L from plywood. Provides much more meat in the corner to shape a radius.
Here's a link to an Instagram post by Adrian Ferrazzutti that shows the assembly of a case with L tenons. I learned this technique from him.
https://www.instagram.com/p/BpmcF4fg3IN
Mike
Last edited by Mike King; 11-04-2018 at 1:09 PM.
Make your top to length plus 2” for each end. Cut a rabbet on the ends leaving about 1/32 of material. Use any method you like, a dovetail bit maybe, to undercut the vertical end of the rabbet. Cut your curved end and match that with a miter to your undercut on the top. This keeps the veneer piece from bending right at the joint. Make a caul to clamp the veneer piece to the curve. Then just work your end pieces as needed. I don’t know how the jarrah bends so the thickness of your veneer piece may need to be thinner. I would use epoxy for the veneer. No biscuits or anything needed at the veneer part.
Jim
If I build the corners from a solid section, it is relatively straight forward to orient the grain and then plane the inside hollow and rounded outside. This is the picture I posted earlier ...
The issue is how the mix of cross- and long grains would look. Very busy in my expectation.
An idea that has occurred to me (suggested by this picture, actually) - to hide the corner being an added section - is to make the entire carcase with the grain running across, rather than than along the length. It may be possible by bookmatching to hide any joins.
I've not seen a construction like this. Could be interesting What are your thoughts?
Regards from Perth
Derek
Last edited by Derek Cohen; 11-05-2018 at 2:22 AM.
My $0.02 FWIW. I think a lot of woodworkers would overlook or reject that design because of a fear that the table would be prone to split along the grain as the top flexes lengthwise. The stretchers between the legs and the internal partitions would tend to mitigate the flexion, and you could use more than two stretchers to increase support. The difficulty, I think, is accommodating expansion and contraction along the length of the stretchers. Looking forward to reading more suggestions and seeing what you finally choose.
—John
What this world needs is a good retreat.
--Captain Beefheart
John, just looking at this design gives me a headache. What appears so simple for a non-woodworker is a bloody nightmare when aware of the level of difficulty in the construction.
I have advised my nephew that he might reconsider a square end!
Regards from Perth
Derek
This is a cross post from the Oz forum. The drawings are courtesy of a formite there.
This is what I also thought to end up with ...
Joinery could be as simple as dominos.
I can shape this with a table saw and hand planes (perhaps - see below).
The question is whether one uses a single section used across the width. That is easier to shape with hand planes as one is planing long grain. However this may create more of a sectional look.
The other way is to join together sections, and to have the grain running into the the top. Looks better, but more work to shape, as planing across the grain. But perhaps not such a big deal to do.
Worth thinking about.
Regards from Perth
Derek
Derek that's what I was trying to suggest in post 23. With the grain running across the radius you can cove it with the table saw and sand to smooth it. Then the grain will run around the long direction of the table with nothing going across.
https://woodgears.ca/cove/index.html
https://woodgears.ca/cove/calculate.html
Added. Specially made blades are available for those that had a need for a lot of coves. They would leave a smother bottom.
https://sommerfeldtools.com/cove-cut...rved-cabinetry
https://www.amazon.com/CMT-235-006-0.../dp/B000P4JP66
Last edited by Peter Christensen; 11-05-2018 at 12:55 PM.