I’m considering pulling the trigger on a Tite Mark. How well do the cutting wheels work on White Oak, my primary material? I’m worried it won’t be effective.
[OP]
Contributor
I’m considering pulling the trigger on a Tite Mark. How well do the cutting wheels work on White Oak, my primary material? I’m worried it won’t be effective.
Sharp solves all manner of problems.
Member
I have a tite mark gauge and it does well across the grain but I find it tends to walk when going with the grain but repeated light strokes helps to prevent that
My personal preference overall is standard marking gauge with a point for going with the grain and a pin with a knife edge for across the grain
Contributor
In my opinion, it works well. My recollection is the blades are A2 steel. Mine has been used a lot, not in oak, but some other hard woods. Recently dropped it on the floor. That got me to order a couple of new blades so there will be a new one if/when the next one gets beyond being able to be sharpened.Originally Posted by Rob Luter
In my estimation you will be happy to have it. Lately, even with a few other marking gauges my thoughts have been to buy a second gauge and a few of the various blades available.
jtk
"A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
- Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)
Contributor
I quite agree with the grain orientation and light strokes statements. I really like the Japanese bladed markers for across the grain marking but can make the wheel-types work on difficult grain or hard wood by using repeated, gentle strokes. This doesn't work as well when the gauge is fully extended.
One word of caution, however. I strongly suggest avoiding moving your other hand to near the marking wheel to help guide it or to apply downward pressure on it. No matter how soft the wood, the pulp of your index finger is softer, and these cuts can result in serious wood staining. Don't ask me how I know.....
Contributor
Also be careful in holding one hand near the end of the mark. Often when using a marking gauge or even an Odd Jobs to mark with a pencil the work is either held using a vise or just a stop. It is like having a third hand.One word of caution, however. I strongly suggest avoiding moving your other hand to near the marking wheel to help guide it or to apply downward pressure on it.
jtk
"A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
- Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)
Contributor
I have both Tite-Mark and Veritas wheel gauges. Two rules with both: sharpenen the blades regularly, and always make the first stroke light, with progressive pressure over a couple of strokes. Sharp blades leave a cleaner line. I remove the cuttr and lap it a few times across a worn/fine 600 grip diamond stone.
Regards from Perth
Derek
The only gauges I have kept are wheel gauges. As Derek says, keep 'em sharp (it's simple) and no worries. A Tite-Mark clone and the LV stainless with the offset head are my go-to's.
Last edited by glenn bradley; 07-26-2018 at 7:56 AM. Reason: punct.
"A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".
– Samuel Butler
Member
I have been planning on getting another gauge, I have the veritas and like it, I hear great things about the tite-mark too. Any pros or cons you see between those two other than cost?
Member
I have the Veritas mortise gauge. The nice thing about it is that it's like having two gauges because you can set both wheels. So that's the one that sits in my tool tray all the time. That said, I find that it can be tricky doing any kind of marks that have some depth because it's easy to loose registration. So anything slightly deep, I go back to one of my shop-made pin gauges.
Contributor
Hi Brandon
Essentially, the wheel gauges are simple tools. They are able to be adjusted with one hand, and the head/fence is small and the screw is close to the fingers. They do not even need a fine adjuster - they work with less hassle this way. Use finger tips to "squeeze" the adjustment - and, indeed, my favourite version does not have one. This is the stainless steel Anniversary Veritas, but unfortunately these were made for a short time only. The new Veritas with the fine adjuster is essentially the same gauge ... but with an added fine adjuster. The one gripe I have about the fine adjuster on this model is that the adjuster screw can twist around the stem out of alignment with the main screw. This does not affect the adjuster, but it makes the process less intuitive. Still, it is a great gauge which has a larger fence than the TM, and is quicker to set as one can by-pass the fine adjuster.
The SS version ...
The new Veritas fine adjuster model ...
One-handed adjustment on the Veritas ...
The Tite-Mark has set the standard for wheel gauges, both with-and without fine adjusters. It is beautifully made and feels like a finely oiled machine in the hand. The fine-adjuster is tghe best - really easy to use with one hand (where the Veritas needs two hands) ..
The fence on the TM is smaller, but in practice I do not find this to be a disadvantage for the small stuff it is designed to be used on. My only gripe about the TM is that it is designed to be used with the fine adjuster, and setting it quickly (without the adjuster) is less easy than the Veritas.
All this makes the original Veritas an absolute bargain.
Regards from Perth
Derek
Last edited by Derek Cohen; 07-26-2018 at 10:06 AM.
Contributor
Here is a link to a comparison I did over eight years ago.
https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?133966
I do not know what changes have been made to the Veritas, but my satisfaction with the Tite-Mark® has me contemplating purchasing another.
jtk
"A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
- Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)
Contributor
Comparing your review to the listing at LV, the design has changed. The micro-adjust is now at the end of the shaft. It looks easier to use, but definitely requires two hands:
Contributor
The travel of the adjustment is 1/4" which some may find a bit limiting. It does look like the off center design will help to prevent it rolling off the bench.
The big deal to me is that the rod with the adjuster can be bought separately for those wanting to upgrade their older gauges.
jtk
"A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
- Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)
Contributor
I highly recommend the Tite Mark as well. I have three of them. The circular cutters can be rotated to put a sharp edge down and can easily be resharpened. They can wander when working along the grain, but like Timothy says, just use light pressure and a few passes. They are fantastic tools.
TedP
Last edited by Ted Phillips; 07-30-2018 at 10:31 AM.
Member
Sorry if I missed it, but I don't see any wheels with opposing bevels...
I thought about getting another marking gauge, one that I can drop down flush as pictured by Derek, as the cheap knockoff one I have, has a round head screw on the end, making this not possible.
If I did get another, I think I will set the old one to have an opposing bevel, as I don't have a thicknesser,
I could mark out mortises from a single face, instead of having to have two faces surfaced parallel.
If one were to have visible mortises it would be a more precise method, as I have found out.
Tom
bevel to the waste side.JPG
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