I think that the disconnect here is in the leap from "planed" to "burnished".
You're saying that you've finished plenty of planed surfaces without trouble. You're right. I've had the same experience using a variety of adhesives and finishes, including film finishes like poly and a variety of water-based finishes (like many people I use films when wear matters more than appearance).
Stewie pointed out that burnished surfaces present a bonding issue for both finishes and adhesives. He's also right, as everybody who's ever forced an overly tight M&T or dovetail and "bruised" the wood so that it won't absorb glue knows.
The thing is that typical smoothing doesn't leave a burnished surface. Planing usually leaves a surface in which the structure is relatively undisturbed and "open" to both adhesives and finishes. Stewie himself pointed out in
post 19 in this thread that burnishing only happens under fairly specific circumstances.
I have seen some degree of burnishing (though not enough to be an adhesion issue) where a rounded/cambered blade transitions from cutting to not cutting. The blade appears to apply a fair amount of pressure to the wood in that narrow transition area, and the resulting burnishing can be detected as a "shiny" band when the wood is examined under grazing light. That's why I try to keep the amount of corner relief of my smoothers less than the shaving thickness, though the tradeoff is that I have to align my strokes more precisely to avoid conventional tracking.