Thanks for that article Paul. The last paragraph says it all.
"We have soaked braze alloy in oven cleaner for a week with no discernible damage to the braze alloy."
Thanks for that article Paul. The last paragraph says it all.
"We have soaked braze alloy in oven cleaner for a week with no discernible damage to the braze alloy."
I've used several solutions on my blades over the years; used oven cleaner for years after I found out it was a lot less expensive than commercial blade cleaners. It works fast and well on the cruddiest of blades but caustic. I now lean toward cleaners like Simple Green, Fantastic, etc.. Takes a little longer but less nasty mess. I use a nylon scrub brush from the hardware store.
Oven cleaner for over 20 years and have never lost a carbide tooth.
I've run the gamut mentioned above and settled on the CMT and Trend cleaners primarily for effectiveness and speed.
No need to soak, brush, rinse, dry, protect.
Just spray, brush (tooth brush), inspect for clean, wipe and puff of air and done.
The blade/cutter is clean and coated with protectant.
Most times there is very little waste of cleaner, a quick toweling of the 'container' is all that's needed to clean it out.
I do keep my cutters/blades fairly clean so heavy build up normally doesn't play into it and not sure how these cleaners would take on that scenario other than needing more time to work.
I wanted to enforce what he said. I have used different cleaners designed for the task. I use very little, I spray them onto the blade, let them sit for about 30 seconds; more if they are really nasty, or, I just use a second application. Then I hit them with an old tooth brush. They come clean almost immediately.
I use very little cleaner so incrementally it costs very little. It is very fast, and it works really well.
Specifically, I have used the Boeshielf Blade and Bit
http://www.amazon.com/BOESHIELD-BLAD.../dp/B001N9YLWK
More recently, I am using some stuff from Rockler.
I posted an earlier query about tablesaw blade wear that ended up with a brief exchange over cleaning and cleaners.
I'm still using the cleaning solution from Lee Valley--mixed at about a 1:6 ratio with water. Just soak the blade for few of minutes, more or less depending on the amount of buildup, then brush off any caked on residue with a nylon or brass bristled brush. Rinse well with water, then dry completely (I use a hair dryer so my blades have more bounce and shine).
simplest method spray with oven cleaner wait one minute use brush rinse dry good to go
Tips are brazed and you will get multiple takes on the tolerance to different cleaners. Oven cleaner is damaging but, only very slightly. L.A. Awesome from the dollar store is safe and requires almost no scrubbing. I use a nylon brush for stubborn stuff but, generally letting the blade set for a few minutes does the trick. You experience will vary with how long past the "right time" you wait to actually clean the blade ;-)
"A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".
– Samuel Butler
Here is the recommendation from Freud. Most blade manufacturers support this info.
Definitely avoid oven cleaner and other caustics. They attack the cobalt binder in the carbide and can lead to carbide failure (translates to tiny missiles of carbide at 100+ mph). Also, Freud and some other brands of blades have a tri-metal brazing foil that uses copper alloy for a cushioning layer. The copper can also be affected by these cleaners (translates to larger missiles of carbide). We recommend soaking overnight in kerosene in a vented container and using a stiff nylon bristle brush to clean. Teflon coated plates will clean up with a soapy cloth (except for the teeth as mentioned earlier). There are commercial blade cleaning products that are not caustic but we don't officially sanction them.
The manufacturers of Simple Green recommend NOT USING their standard product for carbide tool cleaning. They have a metal cleaning formula that is safe to use. Freud recommends using kerosene.
Charles M.
Freud, Inc.
Howie.........
Does anyone know of a documented case of a carbide saw tooth disengaging and translating to "a tiny missile of carbide at over 100+ MPH?"
I use oven cleaner and will continue to do so unless I experience a carbide tooth failure because of it. I only have to leave it on the blade less than a minute, hit it with a plastic bristle brush and rinse. No more build-up.
Cody
Logmaster LM-1 sawmill, 30 hp Kioti tractor w/ FEL, Stihl 290 chainsaw, 300 bf cap. Solar Kiln
Hello,
Here is a short video of how a Professional saw shop cleans and replaces tips on carbide tipped saw blades.
https://vimeo.com/137025186?utm_sour...Njg3fDc3MDE%3D
"The manufacturers of Simple Green recommend NOT USING their standard product for carbide tool cleaning. They have a metal cleaning formula that is safe to use."
That's interesting because if you go to Simple Green's website they show a photo of a saw blade in the how to area.
http://simplegreen.com/cleaning-tips.../tools-blades/
http://www.toolcrib.com/blog/2008/07...nd-router-bits
Lye based cleaners are not recommended.
I use an orange based spray cleaner which needs very little soaking time, followed up with a gentle use of a brass bristle brush for really burned on pitch. Rinse in the laundry tub and dry. Zep Heavy Duty Citrus Degreaser available at HD. You really don't need anything as powerful as an oven cleaner, nor do you need to soak for a half hour.
NOW you tell me...