Can anyone vouch for the accuracy of these? I just need a cheaper version.
http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/pag...=1,42936,42941
http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/pag...=1,42936,42941
Can anyone vouch for the accuracy of these? I just need a cheaper version.
http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/pag...=1,42936,42941
http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/pag...=1,42936,42941
You have to remember that the longer leg will show more error because it's farther from the corner. I would think if you checked the log leg at the same length as the short leg, it would be the same...I just went back out to the shop and actually wore my reading glasses this time. The square is 22x16. Doing the method of drawing a line and flipping it over, drawing another line with the start point the same, the long side is actually just under 3/16 off at 22" and the short side seems pretty darn close. That sure seems like a lot to off ?
But sometimes I'm not allowed to think on my own!
Funny, I don't remember being absent minded...
It's a moot point now. I tried the ball peen hammer method and had very little luck and now the outside corner an inch up on the short and long leg are not flat any more. It wouldn't move so I kept hammering a little harder each time. For a cheapie square, I sure spent more time on it than I would have thought. I suppose it's still good for drywall.
So I think a better fix is to add a piece of wood to one side. To me this makes a framing square more useful in a wood shop. It is adjustable and it hooks on the edge.
IMG_20140901_200320637.jpg
Instead of beating a square with a hammer, try it this way with a hammer and nail punch or center punch: http://www.americanwoodworker.com/bl...ng-square.aspx
This method works perfectly. I've trued several squares with success. But banging a hammer directly on the square isn't going to work.
That's what I did. Go to a borg with lotsa framer's squares. Grab a handful and find a flat surface. Stand 'em back to back. Keep checking 'til you find two that sit flat with no gaps or overlaps on the vertical surfaces. For them to be off, they'd have to off exactly the same amount and in opposite directions which seem unlikely to me. Something else to consider would be a large plastic drafting triangle to use as a standard to check metal squares. I've had pretty good luck with Empire brand at Home Depot for affordable squares. Lee Valley has a large stainless steel square from Japan that is supposed to be quite accurate.
I have the same square. It is my favorite. I use it more often than my Starret square.
~Everyone has the strength, few possess the will~
I trust the one piece squares most, speed squares mostly because they are thick and unlikely to bend. I have a framing square I verified against the speed square.
All two piece try squares I have had have gone out of square eventually, now I just consider them junk. I'd rather make my own try-square from wood.
I must keep on and say how much I really like my speed square, I got the metric version and had to order it from the USA because we don't get them over here. It was worth the freight to have it shipped over.
Last edited by Dennis Aspö; 09-03-2014 at 2:46 AM.
The plastic drafting triangles get a favorable mention, from time to time.
The Staedler Mars 965 10-45 comes up often.
You could keep it to verify the set up tools.
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?184217-Plastic-Triangles