Derek,
I love the simple design of this, and am now thinking about making one. But I have a question. Since the width of the chamfer is determined not by a moving fence (as in other models), but by raising/lowering the iron, does a deeper set make it harder to get a nice chamfer? It seems that it would try to dig in too much, or else you would have to intentionally hold it off the rail a bit, which seems that it would also be a bit inaccurate.
Do you have more information on how you built this plane?
Woodsmith Volume 57 has a plan for a chamfer jig for a block plane. If you can't find it, I might be able to email it to you. It's a single page plan. Pretty simple.
You guys are the best!!! Thanks for taking the time to comment and post pictures on my question. To the pit I go to make a chamfer. John
Hi Roy
Some years after I designed and built this chamfer plane, I bought the chamfer attachment for the Veritas LA Block Plane. I had no previous exposure to the latter beforehand. Interestingly, the basic design for the Veritas was the same as mine - that is, a bevel up configuration where the size of the mouth does not play a part, and where the blade is advanced incrementally for the deepth of cut.
If you set a plane like this to take a deep cut, it will cause much tearout, even with a high cutting angle. This particularly the case with some of the hard, interlocked woods I use. Take a shallow slice, progressively deeper, and you are rewarded with a clean, even chamfer.
This is the reason for the wing nut on the plane. It is simply easier and quicker to grasp, loosen and tighten, to move the blade forward.
I will see what I can do to draw up a plan for this plane, for those that want to build one. Essentially it is built from 3 (or 4) pieces. The centre section can be made one- or two piece - just a vee grooved sole. Then cut away the top bed (at 15 degrees) for the blade. Finally add the cheeks at each side. The wingnut is drilled all the way through, but recessed at the sole, with the hole plugged. I used Jarrah for this plane, which has lasted several years.
From: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furnitu...%20Tables.html
Regards from Perth
Derek
Hi Derek,
Did you ever made a drawing or sketch?
Stig
Last edited by Stig Taube; 03-17-2012 at 7:55 AM.
I use a higher angle frog ( 50 degree ) block plane that has a $10 replacement blade from a Mujingfang. Made from scraps and follows a general design pioneered by Steve Knight.
The blade is A2 and keeps an edge for a very long time and is very sharp. The high angle makes the small bevels easy to control as the adjustable mouth piece controls tear out too. Works great. Purple heart sides and rock maple center. Adjustable mouth piece is black walnut. I have not found a need to add sole bevels or 45 fence.
newBlade.jpg
Last edited by Terry Beadle; 03-16-2012 at 11:01 AM.
A draw knife and a pair of draw knife guides is another way to get nice chamfers. If you're handy with a draw knife, you can cut them freehand, without the guides.
Lee Valley sells newly-manufactured bronze chamfer guides (http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=58664&cat=1,230,41182); you can get vintage guides from some of the antique tool dealers or the infamous auction site.
James
"Uke is always right." (Attributed to Ueshiba Morihei)
Hi Stig
Sorry, but no drawings or plans. One day I will get to it (just have to remember!).
With regards the comments on chamfers with a block plane: that is how I do it as well. However there are times when one needs to be precise, when the show counts, and this is when a chamfer plane is important.
Regards from Perth
Derek
I recently purchased a Stanley No. 72 chamfer plane at a garage sale.
The "Vee" sole is so deep though it seems like a problem when working
narrow workpieces. Really haven't had time to work with it much yet.StanleyNo72.JPG
Beautiful and practical.
Beautiful work Stewie! Do you sell those?
If the thunder don't get you, the lightning will.