Tools for plane making

[Mark Baldwin III]

One of the next things I want to learn is making a traditional wooden bench plane. LN recommends an edge float and side float as the two basic floats required. What other tools should I have on hand? I will likely be ordering the floats from LN in the next couple of days. I have a 1/2" LN mortise chisel, along with two of their joinery floats (1/2" mortise and a face float).

[Jim Paulson]

One of the next things I want to learn is making a traditional wooden bench plane. LN recommends an edge float and side float as the two basic floats required. What other tools should I have on hand? I will likely be ordering the floats from LN in the next couple of days. I have a 1/2" LN mortise chisel, along with two of their joinery floats (1/2" mortise and a face float).

Mark,
I know that you want to make a traditional plane, but as a starting point it might be advisable to make a Krenov style plane first. It is laminated, but still has some challenges of getting everything to fit.

Regarding the making of a traditional plane, I haven't made one from scratch, but I plan to do it eventually. I bought a video on traditional plane making, by Tod Herrli, and a couple books, and it seemed pretty manageable. If I was going to make one, I'd seriously look into making some of my own tools to keep it affordable. Making your own tools has a number of benefits too, you can see what is most helpful as you go. It doesn't sound that hard to file a float in untempered steel, yet it would let you make a plane or two in the process without the bigger investment.

Best wishes on your plane making.

Jim

[David Weaver]

For tuning the bed, either a bed float or a blunted chisel ala bill carter.

What i mean by that, is an old chisel (that is sharp) squared off with a 90 degree bevel honed well, heated to orange and quenched but no tempering - leave it super hard. Makes an excellent tool for fine tuning a plane bed, maybe more precise than a float, though a little slower.

[Leigh Betsch]

I haven't built a traditional either, everything I've built has been laminated. I use sandpaper glued to a stick, and then sandpaper glued to the blade to lap the blade to the frog. I haven't thought about how to cut the checks for the wedge in a non-laminated plane, floats may be the only way.
I think this weekend I'll make a couple of floats just for fun. I picked up Tod Herrli's "Hollows & Rounds" DVD, it shows how to build a couple of floats. That is after I finish up my infill shoulder plane that's been taking way too long!

[Tri Hoang]

St. James Bay has a pair of floats based on Tod Herrli's design. Have you consider a hybrid approach in which lamination is used but the cheeks are formed traditionally (similar to what Derek has done with his jack).

[george wilson]

I made many a plane without any floats years ago. You can just use a sharp chisel. Don't feel put off if you don't have a float.

[David Weaver]

I don't think inomoto uses floats, either, and there's a video of him on youtube making a plane in about 15 minutes - same idea as a western plane with abutments. I could be wrong about that, but I remember that most of the trimming work he does, he just does with paring chisels. You can cut the abutments with a saw (like a hobby saw) and chisel out the waste.

[Ron Hock]

I've often recommended these instructions from the "Krenov Shop" for making the basic, laminated Krenov-style plane. I called David Welter recently when a comment was made about the inadvisability of laminating a plane and he told me that after how-many thousands of planes made in that classroom he couldn't recall one failing due to delamination. So if the pleasure of using a wooden plane is the goal, give yourself a break and glue one up. One tip I'd add is to eliminate the pivoting cross-pin in favor of a 1/2" dowel. The pivoting cross-pin is more difficult that the rest of the plane, IMO, and the dowel works just fine.

Good luck. And please post a photo of your results.

[Matt Ranum]

I've often recommended these instructions from the "Krenov Shop" for making the basic, laminated Krenov-style plane. I called David Welter recently when a comment was made about the inadvisability of laminating a plane and he told me that after how-many thousands of planes made in that classroom he couldn't recall one failing due to delamination. So if the pleasure of using a wooden plane is the goal, give yourself a break and glue one up. One tip I'd add is to eliminate the pivoting cross-pin in favor of a 1/2" dowel. The pivoting cross-pin is more difficult that the rest of the plane, IMO, and the dowel works just fine.

Good luck. And please post a photo of your results.

I picked up an old Ohio coffin smoother for cheap thats basically shot but the cap & iron are real nice. I may just have try one of these with it.

[john brenton]

Although its another cheat, I have had a few old planes that were two pieces. It gets you out all the tight chiseling but will still give you options for traditional style cheeks and eyes.

[Pam Niedermayer]

I made many a plane without any floats years ago. You can just use a sharp chisel. Don't feel put off if you don't have a float.

I never use floats either; but then I've never made traditionally styled western molding planes, which is where small side and bed floats would come in very, very handy. Regularly sized block and bench plane making certainly doesn't require them.

And I second David's/Bill Carter's use of a blunted chisel for scraping the abutments.

Pam

[Pam Niedermayer]

I don't think inomoto uses floats, either, and there's a video of him on youtube making a plane in about 15 minutes - same idea as a western plane with abutments. I could be wrong about that, but I remember that most of the trimming work he does, he just does with paring chisels. You can cut the abutments with a saw (like a hobby saw) and chisel out the waste.

Nary a float did he yield in the class I attended.

However, you do need a good 3 mm/1/8" chisel.

Pam

[Bob Strawn]

I have to agree. A chisel with a flat back will do a fine job. You can even use the blade you will be using to tune the bed. I like floats, don't get me wrong, but you can do just as well without one. If you plan to make a lot of planes, then get a float.

[Stewie Simpson]

Mark. I have been making traditional wooden planes for a number of years. The 2 floats LN recommended are well worth the buying if you wish to make more than one. Using them to shape the throat and wedge abutments is ideal and less time consuming.

[Mark Baldwin III]

To Ron and Jim...I've made 6 Krenov style planes (or is ti 7 now?). I enjoy them a lot, and Ron, your irons are top notch. This is really just a challenge for me and another skill to learn. Ron, your tip on using the dowel...that's what I do right now. I got the idea from your kit! It didn't make much sense to me to spend a lot of time on the cross pin.
I've heard of the blunt chisel method, and I may have to give it a shot. I've seen Carter's planes and he makes some neat stuff.
I could see making my own edge float, but not the wider ones. For the wider ones, it makes sense to me to pay someone 50 or 60 bucks instead of taking the time to make my own. Every now and then, I just cough up the cash instead of making something.
Thanks for the tips, everyone. My main concern beyond floats is cutting the giant hole! But I'll have a few more mortise chisels soon to help with that, I need them for another project anyway.
As soon as I get started, I'm sure you all will be the first to know!