You can view the page at http://www.sawmillcreek.org/content....gs-and-Methods
You can view the page at http://www.sawmillcreek.org/content....gs-and-Methods
very thorough and comprehensive review, greg. thanks!
Greg, thanks for that report. Drilling holes for shelf pins seems like one of the easiest parts of a project to do but can turn out to be frustrating. I built a quick and easy one hole at a time jig based on a dowel pin. Works great for small projects. However, I will look at the WWA jig for my bigger projects. thanks again.
Great article and the timing could not be better as I am currently building a large entertainment center that will have many adjustable shelves. I am going to try the WWA jig.
Thanks for the comments everyone! Feel free to PM me with any questions or clarifications that you might have.
Greg
Nice report comparing the options.
I rarely use shelf pins since my preference is fixed shelfs.
For one project my wife wanted adjustable shelfs. My solution was to make a tee-square with 2 rows of 4 holes spaced at 2".
After the first row was laid out and drilled, a dowel was inserted into one and the square moved up to align the next row of holes.
jtk
Very nice comprehensive review! I've used the pegboard method with a shelf-pin drill bit before, but that was for a small project only.
Anyone know how the Woodpecker's version compares?
The Woodpecker version looks similar to the Veritas system. From the pictures it would seem that the Woodpecker version has a better clamping system (thickness limited though) & is available in 32mm or 1.25" spacings. It can also be used with a drill or router. The Veritas deluxe system has the cross-rail for drilling drawer slide holes, can be used on very wide pieces (single rail mode), is a drill-based jig & is more expensive.
MEG Products seems to have gone out of business. Their website shows zero stock on most items and no one answers the phone. E-mailed them an order and no response.
Very thorough and well written. It is great to have such an array of products reviewed at length by someone who actually got their hands on them. Thank you. I will add a comment on the statement "Only the peg board will exhibit issues as the holes wear out,". The Rockler jig suffers damage if more than a few holes are drilled at a time. Their drill bit/guide becomes hot enough to melt the thin plastic. The result is that it deforms the hole or sticks to the jig and pulls small fractures of material away as the bit/guide is withdrawn. I found it less than satisfactory as it costs around the same as others in its class. I have solved the problem by converting to router use. In use I would prefer a 1/4" thick template and a plunge router. Not as fast as a drill but, accurately repeatable.
P.s. As long as I'm picking on them, the non-flush heads of the "fence" screws add an accuracy issue when the jig is required in that position. This is not always the case and can usually be worked around but, an unnecessary bit of fussiness.
Last edited by glenn bradley; 09-20-2011 at 10:01 AM.
"A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".
– Samuel Butler
Hi Greg,
I read your survey of shelf pin jigs with great interest. I have a small cabinet shop and have used the Delta 13-spindle but sold it to create floor space. I'm now using a plastic jig and drill but am looking for something that is more accurate and incorporates 32mm. With your review in mind, and since you've used both, would you prefer the Festool LR32 or the Kurka Jig if there were not a price difference (I have to buy the Festool rail anyway).
Thank you,
Fred