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Thread: New Shop Questions

  1. #16
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Boston
    Posts
    1,740
    Joe, I have the Dayton Heater thats been discussed plently. I don't leave it on when I'm not in the shop.

    With everything insultated I can get it from 30 to 50 in a 1/2 hour, 60 after 45 minutes.

    Only drawback is doing glue ups over the winter. I'll use this winter for some shop projects.

    I have no AC. I have a ceiling fan which helps and work in the AM or later at night. I also open both sets of doors for some air movement.

  2. #17
    Thanks for the pictures Don. I am going to take a closer look at them later today. Looking forward to it.

    We had that big storm roll through and I lost some shingles on the place. Was hoping to get some electrical done this weekend but looking like shingles again. dang...

    You guys are mentioning dayton heaters. Is it possible to put a thermostat on them to be controlled at ground level as I was also thinking on putting one of these up on the ceiling.

    Do you guys think the 5000 watt dayton or Fahrenheat would heat a 24x24 detach with a room above in ND or do i need to go bigger? maybe 7500? We can get easily in the -20's and -30's and if there is a wind it gets much worse. I should note too that I am going to have a door up to the attic area so am going to avoid heating that as much as possible.

  3. #18

    layout

    Aaron, your shop layout will somewhat be dictated by the material you use. An 8' board means your saw, jointer, and planer will all be more functional with that infeed/outfeed unobstructed space. Think about how much room you want to the left and right of your miter saw, for me it is 8'.

    If you see yourself running sheets of plywood over your tablesaw you will need at least 2' free space to the left of your saw.

    Same infeed/outfeed questions for router table, bandsaw, or other machines you might own or add in the future.

    The infeed/outfeed situation will drive machine location, and often the machine feed paths are paralell to each other. this is where you have a choice. I like the workbench near the tablesaw, jointer near the wall, planer inbetween. My cyclone is wall mounted near the jointer, which is another reason for the planer to be near the jointer, the 2 produce the most chips and require the highest airflow to carry those chips. My workbench is against the wall farthest from the jointer. My shop cabinets are along two walls joining in a corner by the tablesaw outfeed. It works for my preferences and projects, yours may be different.

    Some folks don't like the workbench against the wall, and their reasons are certainly valid. Think about what would be best for what you will be doing.

    From what I've seen the majority of shops end up with the tablesaw and workbench near each other, because the tablesaw is used throughout a project.

    Oh yeah, insulate that garage door. Glue and finish don't like being frozen.

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Columbus, OH
    Posts
    3,069
    Aaron,

    I would offer one additional piece of advice wrt shop layout. Take some time to figure out how and where you will store, move, and break down 4x8 sheets of plywood. It is likely the largest and most awkward material you will handle, save the occasional 12'-13' hardwood board. And I guess in general, figure out how you will store lumber. If you really are trying to reserve space for a trailor, I think this will be even more of an issue for you to work out.

    Brian

  5. #20
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Boston
    Posts
    1,740
    Aaron, If you insulate the wall and the ceiling of the shop the 5000w Dayton will do fine. You may want to replace any windows if you have any. If you insulate the place well you will have no issue.

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