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Thread: So I built a shooting board...

  1. #1
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    So I built a shooting board...

    So I built my first shooting board this weekend. Everything square and perfect. I sharpened up my low angle iron and tried out the bevel up jack plane from Veritas. I got some nice shavings, as you can see off to the side in the picture.

    But then when I checked my end, it wasn't square.

    So I went back and re-checked my board and the fence was no longer square to the glide. I swear it was before. I'm thinking I must have knocked it out of square when I was trimming the fence, with the plane, to be flush with glide. I thought this was what I was supposed to do, but maybe I left too much overhang to trim.

    So, now I have to re-square the fence. It's held in with three screws from below, #10 - 2" screws. I didn't think it would move on me. So I'm thinking I need a better way of securing it.

    Should I run bolt all the way through, counterbored on bottom for the head and wingnut on top of the fence? I figure there should be enough play to align square after the fact, and any other time its needed.

    Is there a better way?
    Attached Images Attached Images

  2. #2
    I haven't had that problem. I've built shooting boards where I put screws in from the top, and when I glued the fence to the base. I prefer to use screws just in case...

    The other thing you can do is make your fence out of MDF. I find that MDF trims easily so when you're making your first cuts, you aren't cutting end grain and don't put as much strain on the fence. Come to think about it, I think all the shooting boards I've made used MDF for the fence.

    Mike

    Since everybody loves to show pictures of their shooting boards, here's some of my current one. The last picture shows the miter attachment used for shooting boards at 45*.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Mike Henderson; 06-18-2007 at 6:53 PM.
    Go into the world and do well. But more importantly, go into the world and do good.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Henderson View Post
    Come to think about it, I think all the shooting boards I've made used MDF for the fence.
    That sounds like a good idea. For some reason I was thinking I needed a hardwood fence, so I had some 8/4 hard maple laying around...

    Now I can't remember why I was thinking that...

  4. #4
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    Randy

    I built my shooting board with a micro-adjustable fence:

    http://www.wkfinetools.com/contrib/d...oard/index.asp



    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Derek Cohen View Post
    Randy

    I built my shooting board with a micro-adjustable fence
    I like the adjustable fence. I think I've seen that before which is what made me "suggest" it earlier.

    As for the LV BU jack plane, how do you position your hand? I put my thumb on the finger hole and fingers on the lever cap. I wasn't sure where to put my fingers and am not sure if I'm messing anything up by putting them on the lever cap.

  6. #6
    this is what got me to go neander someone told me my shadow boxes would be alot nicer if I would shoot the mitered corners but how do you shoot a corner that is between 4-6 inches tall? is there a shooting board with a set up that lets you lay the board flat and adjust the angle of the plane? I am going to start doing dovetails and box joints to but I would like to know how to do this as well.

  7. #7
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    Not sure on this, but there is something called a donkeys ear shooting board. I think that's what you need.

    Check it out here, you'll have to scroll down some.

  8. #8
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    Oh,.....Nice!!

    Quote Originally Posted by Derek Cohen View Post
    I built my shooting board with a micro-adjustable fence
    You just HAD to show me this didn't you Derek! Now I'm compelled to go out and build one for myself.

    I personally love the adjustable fence. No matter how square I think I make a fence, be it for power or handtools, it always needs some tweaking.
    Dominic Greco

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by Jason Boushard View Post
    this is what got me to go neander someone told me my shadow boxes would be alot nicer if I would shoot the mitered corners but how do you shoot a corner that is between 4-6 inches tall?
    you could also use a miter jack on boards of this size
    http://www.cornishworkshop.co.uk/wwmitrejack.html

  10. #10
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    Modular Shooting Boards

    I built two different sized modular ones from shop scraps and a design I got from a place called White Mountain Design.The fence is adjustable.

  11. #11
    thanks for the help guys sorry for hijacking the thread I think I am going to add the donkey ear set up to my to do list.

  12. #12
    That shooting board is gorgeous! The plane lying against it made my eyes well up a bit. I can't say I've ever seen an iron quite that thick. Yours in jealousy, al

  13. #13
    I've often wondered why nobody sells shooting boards. Every kind of tool or jig is for sale by somebody. Heck, LV even sells winding sticks. But I don't think I've ever seen shooting boards listed in any of the catalogs.

  14. #14
    HNT Gordon makes a ramped shooting board in right and left hand versions. Craftsman Studio sells it for $95. It's nice but...

    Michael

  15. #15
    Quote Originally Posted by Eric Sink View Post
    I've often wondered why nobody sells shooting boards. Every kind of tool or jig is for sale by somebody. Heck, LV even sells winding sticks. But I don't think I've ever seen shooting boards listed in any of the catalogs.
    One reason could be that they're very easy to make from scraps you have around the shop. That means people probably wouldn't pay very much for them.

    Probably a small market, also, even if you ignore how easy they are to make.

    Mike
    Go into the world and do well. But more importantly, go into the world and do good.

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