Trying CS method on my table top

[Tony Wilkins]

You would use a lot less calories if you would avoid rough planing the low spots. Planing the low spots cross grain not only makes them lower, it leaves a torn surface that has to be made even lower in order to eliminate the damage.

I’m trying to stop when I get an even shaving. Please elaborate on what you mean.

[Tom M King]

Don't think about even shavings. Just take off the high spots. Lay something across it so you can see where the high and low spots are. If you take anything off of the low spots you have to bring the whole thing down to that new lowest level.

Here's a video I made some years back flattening shutter panels. They didn't need to be as flat as a piece of furniture. Going on an 1850 museum house, it was better that they weren't perfect.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SED7B65cppM

[Rob Luter]

Don't think about even shavings. Just take off the high spots. Lay something across it so you can see where the high and low spots are. If you take anything off of the low spots you have to bring the whole thing down to that new lowest level.

Here's a video I made some years back flattening shutter panels. They didn't need to be as flat as a piece of furniture. Going on an 1850 museum house, it was better that they weren't perfect.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SED7B65cppM

Is the video supposed to have sound?

[Tom M King]

Is the video supposed to have sound?

It was supposed to, but it was the first video I ever made, and I forgot to turn the sound on. I was talking the whole time. I ended up selling that video camera. Trying to take a video while working just slowed me up. I get paid to produce work, and it wasn't fair to the people paying me to use the extra time fiddling with camera and lighting setup.

[Warren Mickley]

I’m trying to stop when I get an even shaving. Please elaborate on what you mean.

A plane does not automatically flatten a board. You have to find the high spots and plane them and find the low spots and avoid them. For example if a panel has two low corners and you plane diagonally from low to low, you can take off a continuous shaving and lower the very places that are already too low.

Planing the entire surface, low spots and all, wastes time and energy, and it wastes material too, because it limits even more how much thickness you are left with after truing a board.

[Tony Wilkins]

A plane does not automatically flatten a board. You have to find the high spots and plane them and find the low spots and avoid them. For example if a panel has two low corners and you plane diagonally from low to low, you can take off a continuous shaving and lower the very places that are already too low.

Planing the entire surface, low spots and all, wastes time and energy, and it wastes material too, because it limits even more how much thickness you are left with after truing a board.

But I’m using the length of the #7 to bridge the high spots so it’s not taking a full shaving until I’ve knocked those down. And I’m not really even getting quite to the point of a full shaving when I stop.

[Warren Mickley]

But I’m using the length of the #7 to bridge the high spots so it’s not taking a full shaving until I’ve knocked those down. And I’m not really even getting quite to the point of a full shaving when I stop.

At the ends of the panel you are not "bridging" anything. The same is true of the edges if are planing diagonally or cross grain.

If you can't bring yourself to use straight edges and winding sticks to ascertain the high spots, your progress will be slow.

[Stew Denton]

Tony,

It's looking good. Nice lumber too. I can't tell the type of lumber from the photos, what is the lumber you are using?

Stew

[Tony Wilkins]

Tony,

It's looking good. Nice lumber too. I can't tell the type of lumber from the photos, what is the lumber you are using?

Stew

It’s walnut

[Derek Cohen]

Tony, I agree with Warren and Tom. Even using a #7 is not going to flatten a panel which has a curve. The length of the #7 is relative, and it will continue to follow the curve.

You need to start with a straight edge and chalk the high spots. Then you take those down. You do not plane anywhere else, just the high spots. Once they are level, then you plane to bring all down to the valleys that remain. Keep in mind that you also need to be maintaining coplanar, hence winding sticks.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Tony Wilkins]

I’m continuing to work as I had intended. One thing I don’t get with y’all’s objection… I am sensing a lot of feedback through the #7 as I go 45*. I can feel the high spots very well and I’m far from taking down the low spots. I can see the method y’all suggest on a board this long going along the length though. After all I learned with trying to flatten the edge I was seriously considering that 36” plane Scott Meeks sells :rolls eyes:
IMG_5076.jpg

https://youtube.com/shorts/UpfT5PeCe...-dJoAF_1Rg9WlZ

[Tony Wilkins]

Cleared off to gauge progress…
IMG_0894.jpg

[Mark Rainey]

Impressive Tony...I nominate you for King of the Neanderthals 2023! Keep us posted...

[Tony Wilkins]

Impressive Tony...I nominate you for King of the Neanderthals 2023! Keep us posted...

Perhaps knave or most definitely joker.

BTW, I have some birch long enough to make a long winding stick set — mostly straight grain. Found my level and it’s 2’.

[Tony Wilkins]

Had a realization when I was watching a Bob Rosaieski on planing. My plan was always to stop before installing the breadboards to bring the top and putt it in the space it will live. I was going to do this to see what length we will want to live with and make sure that any remaining movement moves. I hadn’t looked for twist yet but if I do shorten it (which is likely) then I’ll cut some of the twist out.