Any good plans, or pre-made tall resaw auxillary fences for Felder Bandsaws

[John TenEyck]

Yes, that looks a lot like my stepped fence. Here's the link: https://sites.google.com/view/jteney...-feather-board You can see all the details if you open the attached SketchUp file.

How tall did you make yours? It doesn't look all that tall to me, but maybe you don't need to slice very wide veneer. It would be easy to add another fence to the front of what you have, though, if you do.

John

John

[Alan Lightstone]

It’s actually 12” tall

[John TenEyck]

It’s actually 12” tall

Wow, I guess I didn't realize how large that saw is. 12" should do it. I've cut veneer 14" wide on mine w/o issue. Of course, the height doesn't matter much when the stock is still thick, but for the last slice it can be if it has any bow in it.

Happy resawing/veneer slicing.

John

[Alan Lightstone]

To slightly hijack my own thread, I asked this question and then accidentally deleted the post.

How to you get posted pictures to show up large like the ones Derek posted above, as opposed to the ones that end up smaller like the ones I posted and have to click on to enlarge?

[mike stenson]

To slightly hijack my own thread, I asked this question and then accidentally deleted the post.

How to you get posted pictures to show up large like the ones Derek posted above, as opposed to the ones that end up smaller like the ones I posted and have to click on to enlarge?

Host them elsewhere, instead of attaching them here.

[Alan Lightstone]

So the next step was following in Derek's footsteps to attach a DRO to the bandsaw. After a few trial and error attempts, I've got that up and running. I used the Wixey table saw DRO. It attached very easily with 3 L-brackets and using the pre-existing bolts on the bandsaw:

Wixey DRO on Bandsaw.jpg
For the last part, I have been working on a micro-adjuster. This has been the most difficult part of the whole deal. If General International still produced the one I have on my SawStop, this would have been a piece of cake. I'm kludging one together, modified from a plan online (Woodsmith magazine.) Mostly done with that, but the Felder fence with it's irregular shape and rectangular rails (which are great for putting on an extension, but otherwise just not commonly used) have made this difficult. But thankfully, there are a lot of rare-earth magnets in the world.

I need to come up with something to work as a zero stop block for the DRO. Derek's idea of that collar won't work on my saw due to the rectangular rod.

[Derek Cohen]

....
For the last part, I have been working on a micro-adjuster. This has been the most difficult part of the whole deal. .....

Would this help? It is the micro-adjuster I built for the crosscut fence on the Hammer K3 slider ...



Regards from Perth

Derek

[Keith Outten]

Host them elsewhere, instead of attaching them here.

If you link to pictures at other web sites in time they will be gone and we will have dead links in out archives.

[Alan Lightstone]

So, progress after many missteps. I have a first version of a micro-adjuster installed and working on the bandsaw.
Bandsaw Micro-adjuster 1.jpg

It attaches to the table top with two magnets, and has a threaded insert in a wood knob that connects to a threaded rod that is glued to the piece that was custom made to fit the odd shape on the back of the bandsaw fence.

Here's the whole shooting match installed:
Bandsaw Micro-adjuster, Tall Resaw Fence and DRO Installed.jpg

And here's a picture with the spring-loaded featherboard on the table:
Tall Resaw Fence and Tall Spring Featherboard.jpg

Lots of stuff, and more than a few magnets, but all is removable, and I was able to quickly make a test cut and be accurate from top to bottom within 0.002 inches, and within 0.001 inch in set width.

I still don't have a stopblock for the fence/DRO and I've been going crazy looking for a pre-made steel or plastic knob with a threaded insert with 5/16" thread, 3/4" total thickness, and 1-1/4" knob diameter. The wood knob I made, despite my best efforts is a little off center. Sigh... Boy I hate threaded inserts.

[Derek Cohen]

Hi Alan

Two ideas for a stop block on a square bar:

1. Form a through groove in a block (of UHMW or whatever), and insert a bolt through it and tapped into the fence bar. The stop slides on the groove, and can be tightened down.

2. If you do not wish to drill into the bar, create a sandwich, with bolts on each side of the bar.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Alan Lightstone]

I thought of a quick and dirty solution for now. I put a T-bolt on the Wixey track, and after zeroing the blade on the fence, I tightened it down. When I have the fence move towards the blade, it encounters that bolt and stops. I can zero it there.

Now if my bandsaw blades are different thickness, this will be a chore. I haven't measured them, but I really don't change blades too often.

DRO Zero-Stop 1.jpg
DRO Zero-Stop 2.jpg