Results 1 to 15 of 15

Thread: Hammer K3 crosscut fence micro adjust

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Perth, Australia
    Posts
    9,415

    Hammer K3 crosscut fence micro adjust

    There is a micro adjust on the rip fence of my Hammer K3, and it is terrific for dialling in a fine adjustment ...



    Increasingly, I have been missing the same on the crosscut fence. The crosscut fence has an adjustable stop ...



    ... and at the other end is a zero clearance insert I made from UHMW ...



    The ZCI is very accurate. Line up the workpiece against the edge, and that is the cut.



    Or, set the stop at a specific distance, and the result is a very accurate crosscut.

    What I like to do is use the fence stop to stablise the end of the board. The works very well ... until you need to move the board a smidgeon in-or-out. The moment that you slide the stop against the workpiece, it bumps it out of position. Trying to tap the stop into position with the workpiece in place just does not work.

    The solution was to add a micro adjust. Perhaps one is available for the Felder sliders - I do not know. I was not aware of anything available for the Hammer sliders. Having seen a simple version on Banggood, I decided to make my own from UHMW. A couple of brass knurled knobs, three pieces of UHMW, two just screwed together into an "L", and it works wonderfully! It is connected to the stop by the integral nut-and-bolt.







    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  2. #2
    Very nice! You and Brian must have conspired to post fancy stops within a few hours of each other this morning

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Bucks County, PA
    Posts
    969
    That's really nice, Derek. I either eyeball small movement using both the metric and imperial lines combined, or I put paper or playing cards between the piece and the stop to make really small adjustments.
    And there was trouble, taking place...

  4. #4
    Nice invention, Derek.

    I too use paper shims for fine adjustment. Copy paper is about .003"and card stock is .010".

    My rip fence lacks a fine adjuster so I use a dial indicator with a flat magnetic back, normally parked on the steel fence casting.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2020
    Location
    Redwood City, CA
    Posts
    179
    That's awesome, I love the micro-adjust on the fence too and I'm going to have to make this. I've never worked with UHMW before, does it come pretty flat? How are you cutting it to shape?

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Perth, Australia
    Posts
    9,415
    Gabriel, I cut the UHMW on the tablesaw, and then hand plane the show sides. It is quite easy. Connect by drilling and tapping holes for bolts. You cannot glue this stuff.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Perth, Australia
    Posts
    9,415
    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Wurster View Post
    That's really nice, Derek. I either eyeball small movement using both the metric and imperial lines combined, or I put paper or playing cards between the piece and the stop to make really small adjustments.
    Steve, I have also used shims in the past, and they continue to have a part to play. The fine adjuster makes it possible to push the work piece against the stop, and then simply wind the adjuster up or down to get the setting you want. No guess work.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  8. #8
    Awesome mods as always, Derek. Thanks for sharing.

    Erik
    Ex-SCM and Felder rep

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Perth, Australia
    Posts
    9,415
    Thanks Eric.

    As a matter of interest, what arrangements do Felder off for their sliders?

    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Toronto Ontario
    Posts
    11,218
    Very nice Derek..............Regards, Rod.

  11. #11
    Quote Originally Posted by Derek Cohen View Post
    Thanks Eric.

    As a matter of interest, what arrangements do Felder off for their sliders?

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    The bigger saws have micro-adjust on the digital readouts (if you get that option) but nothing on the analog stops. Your solutions are always ahead of the OEM design.

    Erik
    Ex-SCM and Felder rep

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Location
    Goodyear, AZ
    Posts
    45
    Quote Originally Posted by Derek Cohen View Post
    There is a micro adjust on the rip fence of my Hammer K3, and it is terrific for dialling in a fine adjustment ...



    Increasingly, I have been missing the same on the crosscut fence. The crosscut fence has an adjustable stop ...



    ... and at the other end is a zero clearance insert I made from UHMW ...



    The ZCI is very accurate. Line up the workpiece against the edge, and that is the cut.



    Or, set the stop at a specific distance, and the result is a very accurate crosscut.

    What I like to do is use the fence stop to stablise the end of the board. The works very well ... until you need to move the board a smidgeon in-or-out. The moment that you slide the stop against the workpiece, it bumps it out of position. Trying to tap the stop into position with the workpiece in place just does not work.

    The solution was to add a micro adjust. Perhaps one is available for the Felder sliders - I do not know. I was not aware of anything available for the Hammer sliders. Having seen a simple version on Banggood, I decided to make my own from UHMW. A couple of brass knurled knobs, three pieces of UHMW, two just screwed together into an "L", and it works wonderfully! It is connected to the stop by the integral nut-and-bolt.







    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Derek, what is your opinion of the micro-adjust module? I installed mine and it is kind of clunky. To get it to work, I must turn the knob (when it is dis-engaged) all the way til it stops, Then move my fence maybe 1/4" from where I actually want it and then I turn the knob to line up with the exact location where I want the fence to be. If I do not turn the knob all the way to the right until it stops, then what happens is when I set my fence, there may not be enough travel on the mechanism to actually move the fence to the exact location.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Helensburgh, Australia
    Posts
    2,688
    Quote Originally Posted by Ted Diehl View Post
    Derek, what is your opinion of the micro-adjust module? I installed mine and it is kind of clunky. To get it to work, I must turn the knob (when it is dis-engaged) all the way til it stops, Then move my fence maybe 1/4" from where I actually want it and then I turn the knob to line up with the exact location where I want the fence to be. If I do not turn the knob all the way to the right until it stops, then what happens is when I set my fence, there may not be enough travel on the mechanism to actually move the fence to the exact location.
    I'm not Derek but I have the same micro adjuster. You should get the fence to the measurement you want and only need to fine tune it if the cut is a bit off, say 1/16" or similar, using it to set the initial dimension is not its function and would take a fair bit of time. Having a DRO on the fence is the best way, set it to the dimension, test cut if necessary and measure and using the fine adjuster read the required adjustment on the DRO.
    Chris

    Everything I like is either illegal, immoral or fattening

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Perth, Australia
    Posts
    9,415
    Quote Originally Posted by Ted Diehl View Post
    Derek, what is your opinion of the micro-adjust module? I installed mine and it is kind of clunky. To get it to work, I must turn the knob (when it is dis-engaged) all the way til it stops, Then move my fence maybe 1/4" from where I actually want it and then I turn the knob to line up with the exact location where I want the fence to be. If I do not turn the knob all the way to the right until it stops, then what happens is when I set my fence, there may not be enough travel on the mechanism to actually move the fence to the exact location.
    Ted, Chris is correct - the micro adjust is for micro adjustments only. What I do is set the linking screw about mid point. When micro adjustment is needed, its adjuster is locked and the crosscut fence adjuster is left loose. Using the micro adjuster knob, move it in-or-out, then lock the crosscut fence down. It really is very simple once done a few times.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  15. #15
    Very nice!

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •