Originally Posted by
Charles Lent
Usually, I apply the Johnson's Paste Wax to my saw's trunnion ways and blade lift gearing about once per year using an old tooth brush and leaving it on thick. I lubricate the other bearing surfaces and pivot points with light machine oil, usually one containing Teflon, at the same time. I re-wax the top and fence whenever it doesn't seem to be slippery enough, or about once per month, letting it dry to a haze, and then wiping the excess off. At times when I'm using the shop heavily I may re-wax the top every week. My Scroll Saws get their tables waxed before every cutting session. The jointer gets it's bed and fence waxed every time I do the table saw top. My drill presses and band saw tables get rewaxed about 2 times per year. The planer, about every time that I use it. All get Johnson's Paste Wax or Butcher's Wax. I can go through a can about every 2-3 years.
Be careful about using auto waxes. You want to avoid anything that contains silicone and most car waxes contain it. Anything that contains silicone is banned from my wood shop because it causes fish eyes in paint and poly finishes and it's nearly impossible to get completely off so the finish goes on properly. Car waxes are kept in my garage on the opposite side of my property from my shop, and I use them only when cleaning and waxing the cars. If you start getting fish eyes (little round spots that won't take finish) on your woodworking projects it's almost a sure sign that there is a spot of silicone there. It soaks in, so it is almost impossible to remove completely. Let it happen once, and you will never forget the problem for the rest of your woodworking lifetime.
Charley