New to woodworking - table saw advice

[Simon MacGowen]

Thank you so much, I really appreciate it.

I haven't heard of a planer sled before. That is pretty awesome. Thank you for that as well, that is a great idea and a huge help.

Do you mill your own wood?

About 60% of the time with rough lumber -- cheaper in the long run and good choice of lumber and grain.

Step 1: Rip to width with the ripping sled (max 12-1/2" for my Ridgid TP)
Step 2: Thickness plane one side with the sled/shims
Step 3: Flatten the opposite side without the sled
Step 4: Acclimatize the stock for a week or two in the shop
Step 5: Cut stock to final dimensions

Jointing is also done on the tablesaw. Jointer gone for many years as it was taking up space for no reason.

Others have suggested buying a cabinet saw instead of a contractor saw. That is a good piece of advice for anyone planing to do serious woodwork. It really depends on what you aspire to do. For fine woodworking, a decent cabinet saw is a must. Anyone planning to buy a new Delta or Powermatic cabinet saw would be better off with a SawStop PCS since the difference in price is small. Of course, if factors other than price, quality, performance and safety features are the main consideration, the conclusion can be anything but. For the record, none of the three brands mentioned is made in the USA.

Simon

[Pat Barry]

Hi Simon,

Thank you much for the input. The Ridgid one seems like it would work good and be a sturdy saw. I have a Ridgid nail gun and am very happy with it.

And by thick oak cuts I mean 2" in thickness. I know some people are cutting 4" hardwood. I do not think I will b e cutting anything that thick. Do you think the Ridgid would handle 2" thick hardwood cuts okay?

I cannot seem to find the combo deal at HD online. Would you mind sending me the link? I noticed they also have what looks like a nice Wen 6" jointer for 250$? For around 1500$ I think I could have a small starter shop to get me going. What are your thoughts on that jointer?

Yes if the oak is dry and not warped or not likely to pinch the blade. Its really all about the blade sharpness.I have a Ridgid saw (older model - I really like it) and the blade will stall if the wood pinches the blade. I consider this a bit of a safety factor (LOL) since the saw is underpowered for that type of wood. Its better than having the same issue result in a huge kickback event on a higher powered saw.

[lowell holmes]

I would point out that the saw stop would be a one time investment. The muskee fishing wouldn't have to suffer.

My trip to the ER cost more than the saw stop.

[Simon MacGowen]

Hello all,
I am just getting into woodworking. My budget is around 1,200$. I will be doing a lot of thicker hardwood cuts, sometimes on boards that are slightly warped. I have 220V power in my garage as well.

Your budget does not allow you to consider the SawStop ICS model. The PCS has the 220V option.

Warped goods have no implications to what saw you should own (thickness, yes). You can handle any warped stock with a shop made ripping sled, whether on a contractor saw or a cabinet saw.

If you have to handle thick stock only occasionally, switch to a thin kerf blade and make multiple passes with the ripping sled. Good dust collection would help too.

Simon

[David Kumm]

Technically warped lumber can be handled with a sled, although thick oak on a 10' sled is more than I'd want to put through any small saw. Lumber that is warped is also likely to be cupped or twisted. Both are dangerous to deal with on a tablesaw. The op might want to consider having someone dress the boards to get them in condition for him to handle with lighter machinery. Dressing rough heavy hardwood is not a good way to start woodworking, especially with small machines. I do a fair amount of it ( usually for free ) for friends who don't have my heavy equipment and it is still hard work without also fighting the machine. Just know the risks. Dave

[andy bessette]

For well inside of your $1200 budget you can buy an excellent Unisaw or Powermatic cabinet saw.

[Robert Engel]

For dealing with lumber like you describe I think a bandsaw, planer and jointer may actually be more important than a TS.

As far as a TS, IMO for what you're doing, you need *at least* a 3HP saw, which won't be attainable in that budget unless you find one used.

[Josh Groen]

I am in a similar position as you looking for a table saw. My budget is the $1200 to $1500 range. Be patient and keep an eye out for used machines in your area. I live in a much smaller market than you and there is still some good saws available. A PM 66 in great shape for $900 and a PM1000 that is less than a year old with 50" fence and included router in extension for $1400. If you want a new saw (there is definitely appeal in getting a new saw), there are some good saws in that range. Jet Proshop, Laguna fusion F2 (10% off through the 31st of Jan) or a grizzly hybrid. There is no saw that is perfect for everyone, look around and what you like best is probably what is best for you.

[Simon MacGowen]

Regarding bandsaw vs tablesaw.

They can't replace one another; tablesaws can't cut curves and bandsaws can't cut dados.

Unless your work is specific to certain cuts, bandsaws can never replace a tablesaw in terms of efficiency. Many people said they got rid of their tablesaws but kept their bandsaws when they decided to do more work by hand. Good for them, but for me, the day I get rid of my PCS is the same day I get rid of my woodworking hobby.

You can build plywood cabinets using a track saw instead of a tablesaw but with a bandsaw? Better do it with a handsaw -- at least you don't have the riser block getting in the way.

Simon

[Peter Kelly]

I will be doing a lot of thicker hardwood cuts, sometimes on boards that are slightly warped. I have 220V power in my garage as well. I will also be looking for a planer/jointer in the near future as well to help our with the warped boards.

As others mentioned, I'd recommend a bandsaw for this.

[Kevin Smira]

As for the "package deal" pricing, it's not really a package deal...It's not deal at all. Regular price for everything...it's more of a "frequently bought together" recommendation. I have the ridgid jobsite saw and hate it now. I can't trust it to cut a square cut no matter how many times I try to readjus the fence to the miter slot...it just won't stay square...different saw I know, but just wanted to throw that out there in case you think about that one. I have the planer as well, and can say without a doubt it's been my best purchase. Sure, the DW735 may be nicer, but it's also nearly twice the price. I haven't found anything that my ridgid won't do...

[Simon MacGowen]

I have the ridgid jobsite saw and hate it now. I can't trust it to cut a square cut no matter how many times I try to readjus the fence to the miter slot...it just won't stay square...different saw I know, but just wanted to throw that out there in case you think about that one. I have the planer as well, and can say without a doubt it's been my best purchase. Sure, the DW735 may be nicer, but it's also nearly twice the price. I haven't found anything that my ridgid won't do...

Yes, don't get the Ridgid jobsite saw (even though it is cheaper than the Ridigd Contractor saw). In fact, no jobsite saws including the SawStop will deliver the same performance as a contractor saw...unless the intention is do just jobsite work.

Simon

[Nick Mazzino]

Thank you for the input, I absolutely want a contractor saw for the stability. I will not be purchasing the job site version.

[cody michael]

I have seen on craiglist tons of very nice unisaw/pm in michigan especially around detroit, whi is not far from you, look on craigslist and facebook marketplace. I would drive a few hours and get a real cabinet saw before I bought a Homedepot saw (I love my ridgid drills) I bought my Unisaw from someone in Detroit a few years ago for $350 all it needed was an extension table. even after the mobile base extension table etc I have under $500 in a cabinet saw.

[Nick Mazzino]

I did find this saw that seems like a pretty good deal and a beast of a saw:

https://detroit.craigslist.org/mcb/t...424496757.html

I do not mind driving the 3 hours. However, I would have no way of unloading this out of my truck and would also be worried about something becoming misaligned or ruined during transportation. Has anyone ever moved a saw of this size?