name your straight edges!!

[Zach Duran]

I am currently shopping around for a good, true straight edge for setting up my jointer and general measuring of straightness. But dang, these things get expensive, and fast! Was considering an aluminum one from lee valley for the cost savings, although I'll lose some in tolerance. I noticed Grizzly has some steel, beveled ones for cheap, comparatively speaking: $54 for 36", supposedly accurate to .001". Where a Veritas Steel one will run upwards of $100 shipped. I suppose when it comes to woodworking, well, do I need machine shop tolerances accurate to a fleas brain diameter across the length?? I suppose it would be ideal for setting up tools, but honestly, where should I draw the line? well, where do you draw the line? And does anybody have any experience with any of the above mentioned Straightedges? Let's get-a-talkin some straight edges!!

[Kent A Bathurst]

This won't help: Starrett 48".......$300 +/-. It lives in it's own custom-built 3/4" ply case when not in use.

I was absolutely frustrated with setup on jointer and planer, and decided to put paid to that mess once and for all. Likely overboard, but - hey - it did the job.

It is a tool you will not use often. But - it is a tool that has no substitute, IMO, and will save you from burning your entire lexicon of cusswords on one task. Get something, at least.

[Reinis Kanders]

I have an OK 8 foot level by Empire and 36 inch veritas. I use those two to make in between sizes from wood when I need them. I think any decent box level should be ok.

[Cary Falk]

I have a 3' Aluminum Veritas.

[jack forsberg]

[Greg Woloshyn]

I made a few aluminum straight edges and a few squares at work on the cnc. They are probably just as straight as the Starret, but only aluminum. If I have the time again, I will make more out of steel and get them hardened.

[Peter Quinn]

I have a steel one I got from Amazon some years ago, was in the $270 range fro 36", accurate to way closer than I need for working wood, has been a great help in setting up machines and diagnosing issues with old/used machines, fences, tables, etc. Also have 36" and 48" starret rulers that while not technically sold as straight edges are in fact very straight and I often use them as such. It can be hard to justify an expensive straight edge, so i don't, I just use and enjoy it.

[John Lanciani]

If I had a fancy straightedge I would name it Excalibur...

[Jim Matthews]

That MDF with three screws in it is another example of Jack's mechanical genius.

Why mill a piece of metal, when you can turn three little screws?

[Kent A Bathurst]

If I had a fancy straightedge I would name it Excalibur...

BOOM!!! goes the dynamite..............

[Zach Duran]

I have the taunton press shop machine book and for setting up the jointer, this is the recommended way to go. I'm pretty sure i am going to make these as well, but would like a straightedge in the traditional sense. Does anybody have any experience setting up a long bed jointer with these home made, master bars??

[jack forsberg]

I have the taunton press shop machine book and for setting up the jointer, this is the recommended way to go. I'm pretty sure i am going to make these as well, but would like a straightedge in the traditional sense. Does anybody have any experience setting up a long bed jointer with these home made, master bars??

i used them on all 4 planers i have

[Jamie Buxton]

I have a straight edge that is 2" by 1/8" in cross section. It is great for layout work, but not so good for setting up a jointer. For that, you want a straight edge that can stand on edge.

[Erik Loza]

I have a 36" Starrett but that being said, you can make a perfectly serviceable one by ripping a piece of MDF on a table saw.

Erik

[Myk Rian]

i used them on all 4 planers i have

Umm. Isn't that a jointer?