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Thread: Protect surfaces from glue squeeze-out

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
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    Protect surfaces from glue squeeze-out

    Am I hallucinating or did I really see something somewhere about a product, not a tape, but maybe something you paint on, to protect adjacent surfaces from glue squeeze-out?

    If you know about this, please tell.

  2. #2
    Prefinishing parts prior to glueup works well. Failing that, you can apply wax around the joints and clean it and the glue squeeze-out off after clamping.

  3. #3
    Waxilit...

  4. #4
    Gene, as Prashun posted, it's called Waxlit. It's actually a machinery table surface lubricant, but also used by some as a glue release for squeeze out. It's hard to find online these days. Google it and you'll find some info.
    I've not used it, so I can't attest to its efficacy. I'm leary of putting something on bare wood prior to finishing. Best practice is to learn some techniques to prevent squeeze out, especially with M&T, loose tenon, domino joints, etc. Flat panel glue ups, squeeze out is inevitable, but that is easily remedied. It's the tight corners that are the problem with glue.

  5. #5
    There is nothing magical about Waxilit. It just happens to be one among many wax formulations without silicone, which adversely affects finishes. Any similar wax will do as well, but needs to be cleaned off thoroughly prior to finishing. Prefinishing parts prior to glueup takes some planning and patience, but is easier in many cases than dealing with squeeze-out on unfinished inside corners.

  6. #6
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    I keep a scotchbrite sponge handy in a bowl of warm water. As soon as the joint is under pressure, I wipe it away with a damp sponge. All gone no issues. I prefinishe where I can prior to glueup, but it's not always practicle.

  7. #7
    Join Date
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    I have used waxilit,but I still prefer to use packing tape.Nothing sticks to it,and no worries about leftover residue causing problems down the road with finishing.It's quick and easy with a dispenser.

  8. #8
    I am with keith. I have found the warnings that wiping the squeeze out with a wet towel to be largely myth; wiping thoroughly has not compromised any joint nor has it caused finishing problems.

    If i have to stain or dye, then i will resand the joint after dry.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kevin Jenness View Post
    Any similar wax will do as well, but needs to be cleaned off thoroughly prior to finishing.
    And there's the rub . . . no pun intended

    Quote Originally Posted by Max Neu View Post
    I have used waxilit,but I still prefer to use packing tape.Nothing sticks to it,and no worries about leftover residue causing problems down the road with finishing.It's quick and easy with a dispenser.
    Bingo. Do use quality stuff though. Cheap packing tape will leave the adhesive behind and there goes you benefit. They do make 'clean release' making tapes for painting that work well too.
    "A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".


    Samuel Butler

  10. #10
    I have not tried the Waxilit but I have tried the damp sponge, a damp towel and found that I had problems when it came to putting on the finish. The problem is you don't see it until after you put on the finish and then it is to late.

    For me, and I know the OP said not tape, the best is blue tape. I dry fit the item together with clamps and then put on the blue tape. This has really worked well for me, I just let the squeeze out gel a little and pull the tape off.

    Here is a thread I stated on the tape up.
    http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...ight=blue+tape

  11. #11
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    Blue tape works pretty good. The key is removing the tape at the right times. Sometimes I end up with tiny slivers of blue tape stuck in the joint.

    Canning wax also works great and is cheap and readily available and is easily removed with mineral spirits.
    Wood: a fickle medium....

    Did you know SMC is user supported? Please help.

  12. #12
    I've used bar paraffin for this kind of thing for more than 30 years. It works very well for me. The little beads of glue squeeze out pop off effortlessly with a card scraper as does most of the paraffin and a swipe or two with mineral spirits gets the rest of the paraffin. The mineral spirits would also make it easy to see if you have glue soaked into the wood. I also use paraffin for lubricating screws, the bottom of hand planes, the miter gauge slots in my table saw and over thinks of that sort. You can get a nearly lifetime supply for about $3.00.


  13. #13
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
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    I use a toothbrush to wipe away excess. If there is a lot of squeeze out, after removing the majority I'll dampen the brushhead, remove glue, then wipe the brushhead off with a paper towel and repeat as necessary. My only problem is toothbrushes have gotten so darn large....the free ones from the dentist are probably great at tooth brushing (I use a rotary) but sometimes don't fit where I need them to go. Every now and then I get a kids brush from the dentist.
    Trees. Tools. Time.

  14. #14
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    Waxilit. A little pricey, but it works. It's a paste wax. Over glue just snaps off after it dries.
    Never, under any circumstances, consume a laxative and sleeping pill, on the same night

  15. #15
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    I try to keep squeeze out at bay by applying glue so that it goes into rather than out of the joint. But sometimes it still happens and I've had better luck with 3M's Blue tape for delicate surfaces than anything else. I won't use wax because most often I use WB finishes; even though Michael Fortune in a recent FWW article says Waxilit won't cause problems I'm not going to take that chance. I've wiped off a lot squeeze out with a damp rag - and more often than not it dilutes the glue and drives it into the wood. Even sanding won't remove it when that happens and it leaves a shadow in your finish.

    John

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