Does anyone use a drawer hardware jig for drilling holes for drawer pulls or knobs ? I struggle with this once in a while and was looking for a better way to do drill holes for hardware.
https://www.amazon.com/stores/True+P...B?ref_=ast_bln
Printable View
Does anyone use a drawer hardware jig for drilling holes for drawer pulls or knobs ? I struggle with this once in a while and was looking for a better way to do drill holes for hardware.
https://www.amazon.com/stores/True+P...B?ref_=ast_bln
I usually make my own jig out of scrap plywood and toss it after the job is done.
I make a jig out of 1/4" mdf and toss after use. Accurate and cheap !
20years ago I bought a plastic one at Lowes.
It broke about three months ago so I bought another one.
The new one even came with a proper size drill bit. What's not to love?
I've used that True Position Jig for years. Works very well, although I do clamp it to the drawer fronts, which is a little finicky. If you just drilled without clamping, piece of cake.
I used one of those similar jigs very recently - worked very good but since it is not clamped it can raise up some - one drawer was slightly off because right side lifted up very slightly. Will clamp in future or be extra careful. The Kreg jig clamps but covers up what you are seeing.
Quote:
I usually make my own jig out of scrap plywood and toss it after the job is done.
I'll bet that occurred to Mike also - but sometimes you'd need multiple jigs depending on hardware layout and type. An adjustable jig is more convenient. And don't try to tell us you guys don't like to buy tools.Quote:
I make a jig out of 1/4" mdf and toss after use. Accurate and cheap !
Clamping is indeed finicky - that's why our best practice (no matter the jig) is to use it to mark a circle/dot on the front and remove the jig and drill freehand with a tapered bit to avoid blowout on the backside without using a backer. This system allows for a visual double check of your hole placement before committing and makes it easier to control the boring process.Quote:
I used one of those similar jigs very recently - worked very good but since it is not clamped it can raise up some - one drawer was slightly off because right side lifted up very slightly. Will clamp in future or be extra careful.
Only prob. with that is it's not adjustable and limited to a 4" handle - which is smaller than many of today's handles.Quote:
20years ago I bought a plastic one at Lowes.
It broke about three months ago so I bought another one.
I've used/owned them all and my recs are in this thread where the same thing was discussed last month !
https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread....-knob-mounting
cliff notes - this is the best when versatility , ease of use, and price are considered.
http://www.eurolimited.com/products/eurohandleit.htm
Dave- thanks - looks like Hafele sells them - just dropped one into my shopping cart for next order.
In general, I've done most of the above. Hafele had another one of their own design that was pretty good, but horribly brittle - broke the fist time it got dropped. The ones Rich is making fun of actually have been the best value of dollar to service life, honestly. Have another $100+ dollar cam-style self-aligning jig from Woodworker's supply. It's okay, just real sloppy in use, as you've got multiple brass set screws to tweak. It also is really only useful on drawers, so still had another for door handles/knobs.
Also have shop made using plex scraps with a hardwood edge for registration - just use a center-line for proper placement.
Biggest issue with any ready-made invention of this sort is, you will almost immediately need multiple styles and or make your own to get the job done. Have yet to find that one that truly does it all. Maybe that True Position unit actually can...
Had the True position, plus an extension for wider drawers, for a few years now.
Works as advertised.
Cool, simple, accurate, easy to use tool. Doesn't gets used very often, but does the job perfectly.
"once in a while" - scrap wood for me (plywood, mdf,...) with a registration block tacked on two sides.
I've got the Kreg one that comes with the drawer slide and cup hinge jig combo kit. I actually like it, quite handy. It isn't the fanciest thing, but it gets the job done quickly and well enough. I know I could probably make one, but sometimes it is worth it to buy someone else's solution:)
Thanks for all the replies and suggestions. I have tried different ways and it's always a struggle for me to get them "Perfect"
Thanks for the suggestion.Quote:
Had the True position, plus an extension for wider drawers, for a few years now.
Works as advertised.
Cool, simple, accurate, easy to use tool. Doesn't gets used very often, but does the job perfectly.
Doubt you’re going to break the EuroJig. I suppose it’s possible. But if you’re able to, I’m pretty sure the force and situation engaged will also render other jigs unusable too. So don’t sweat it.
While not its strong suit, it can be set up for long rail type handles that were really popular decades ago. The TP with extension arms is more elegant but its huge cost and the space it takes up still put it behind the EuroJig for us. The biggest drawback of the TP for me in that configuration is that it’s not faster. I can mark both sides of a long handle (+ center if needed ) , verify position marks , and drill clean holes faster with tHe EJ than I can place the TP and be sure it won’t move on me while drilling , grab a backer and place it , then drill the 2-3 holes.
That was from my own crude time study. Others may have different results. There is no getting around the TP’s cost of 3 to 5 times as much though.
Another vote for the True Position. In fact we have two. I bought the first one when they first came out and the second at the last AWFS. Granted, they are not cheap, but they are are extremely accurate and equally repeatable. In addition to our own work, we get called in by a local painting contractor to drill for knobs and/or pulls after they re-finished the doors and hung them back up. The True Position allows us to set up for pretty much any pull or handle in any position without marking up the doors. As expensive as the True Positions are, they are not nearly as expensive or frustrating as using a home made jig and/or tape measure to locate hardware and realize one or more pulls or handles is off by 1/16 inch or more.
Other very similar to that True Position one - I just used a Neitra Cabinet Hardware Jig. These type are very good for multiple handle drilling on the same size drawer fronts - very quick. I believe I find it superior to the Kreg jig I have but will keep both.