jig for drawer pull/knob mounting?

[Michael Drew]

I screwed up the last damn task on a cherry cabinet I built. Drilled the holes on a drawer front off center. One side 1/8" higher than the other on a 3" pull.... I'm so pissed. Didn't even realize it until after I installed it and noticed it was at an angle... And this was after I had already sprayed everything with 3 coats of gloss poly. Can't really fix it either, so I need to make another front. What a complete waste of time.

So now I'm looking into one of jigs I see from time to time in magazines that help position the pull/knob hole placement and positioning.

Just looking for general input to see what others might have used and would recommend. I might as well admit that my eyesight isn't what it used to be and I might as well spend some money on a tool to help prevent me making this dumbassed mistake again. Especially if I have multiple drawers to deal with it.

[Lisa Starr]

I make my own jig, with a stop the sits on the top and against one side. When I'm finished, I take it apart, toss the scraps back in my scrap storage, and move on. I used to have one of the various plastic jigs made, but found it way too easy to use the wrong holes.

[George Yetka]

The bad hole doesnt end up under the pull?

[Edward Weber]

As usual it depends on your needs and wallet. They go from a few dollars for a plastic one to a few hundred dollars for a high quality one and everywhere in between.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Liberty-Ali...ate/1000377601

https://truepositiontools.com/produc...RoCb9AQAvD_BwE

[Darrell Bade]

I use the Kreg. After you set it there are only 2 drill guides so you don't have pick a hole to drill through.

[Michael Drew]

I make my own jig, with a stop the sits on the top and against one side. When I'm finished, I take it apart, toss the scraps back in my scrap storage, and move on. I used to have one of the various plastic jigs made, but found it way too easy to use the wrong holes.

I've done that before too. Should have this time, but there are three different sized fronts on this build - so I used a ruler (poorly).

The bad hole doesnt end up under the pull?

Not these pulls. The barly cover the screw hole. I suppose I could just find a different pull with same C/C, but I'd need to get six of them to match. I might try ripping the thing in half and glue back together, to take out one hole. Might as well try I guess, and hope the grain pattern doesn't look weird.

As usual it depends on your needs and wallet. They go from a few dollars for a plastic one to a few hundred dollars for a high quality one and everywhere in between.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Liberty-Ali...ate/1000377601

https://truepositiontools.com/produc...RoCb9AQAvD_BwE

Yah, I've seen several options. Figured I'd ask to see if anyone has a favorite.

I use the Kreg. After you set it there are only 2 drill guides so you don't have pick a hole to drill through.

Thank you.

[Rich Engelhardt]

I'm on my third $10 plastic one from Lowes - shoulda bought the Kreg and been done with it.

The plastic ones get brittle or bowed or they break.

[ChrisA Edwards]

I have The TruePositionTools jigs. Does what it's supposed to do.

Easy to setup, great for repeatability.

[johnny means]

Double checking is better than any jig will ever be. A jig will just as easily lead to all your drawers having holes drilled incorrectly. I've seen dozens of doors ruined on one job because someone thought a jig would prevent mistakes. That's not to say that I don't make jigs for drilling doors and drawer fronts, they do speed things up. They do not however prevent mistakes.

[Rick Potter]

Check youtube. You can make one quicker than going to a store to buy one.

[Bill Dufour]

Time to buy some backplates or make them from contrasting wood.
Bill D

[Wojciech Tryc]

Got one from China. 100% metal, accurate with imperial and metric scales.
support for 4 and 5mm screws.
https://www.banggood.com/DOCTORWOOD-...r_warehouse=CN

[Phillip Mitchell]

That sucks.

I typically use cheaper 1/4” plywood offcuts and cut out a piece that is the exact size of the drawer front, lay out from top or bottom edge with same setting on combo square and drill the holes in it. Then just lay it/clamp it to the drawer front and drill away. It’s not hard or too time consuming to make a few different sizes / heights and/or make one that fits the shortest drawer and then re-use on taller drawers (same length) by offsetting with a combo square to ensure squareness. I’ve never used a store bought jig for this as I like to measure the actual hardware centers for each new pull I use.

[Bruce Wrenn]

Always made my own out of Lexan. Have them for different sized handles. By using a jig, if I later build another cabinet for same location, handle heights match.

[Mitch schiffer]

I have tried a few different brands so farmy favorite has been the true position brand.