Lathe reverse

[Mike Cruz]

Can someone explain the whole reverse thing on a lathe? I mean, if you put the lathe in reverse, doesn't that screw the chuck? Or do you only put it in reverse when using a spur center or something...?

[John Keeton]

Mike, I use reverse only for sanding, though I understand some folks use reverse to turn on the back side of the lathe. My Nova G3 chucks have a spindle screw to prevent backout of the chuck, but :o I never use it. But, then I don't power sand very much as I don't do heavy bowls. I wouldn't want to sand with much pressure without the screw in.

With HF turning, I very rarely use a power sander.

[Rob Holcomb]

Mike, like John, I only use reverse for sanding. The theory is that when sanding in one direction, the fibers will lay down but if you have reverse, the fibers will be cut off by the abrasive. Personally, I prefer to sand in reverse. Is it really necessary? No. You can get a very fine sanding job done with sanding the same direction you turned.

[Jim Burr]

That's (sanding) the only intended purpose...and a big plus:D:D Some may argue this and that:eek:, but with the advent of a threaded chuck...sanding is it's best effort.

[Harvey Schneider]

I sand the outside of a bowl in reverse at the top so that the dust is thrown away from me and into the dust collector and I sand the inside of the bowl in forward at the bottom of so that the dust is thrown away from me and into the dust collector.
I have also found it useful to use reverse when hollowing a closed form. That way I can see what I am doing without having to lean over the lathe bed and look back at the front.

[Ted Calver]

I haven't done it, but if I were to turn outboard on my Lathe (PM 4224) I would run in reverse so as to use my tools in the way I am used to using them when normally turning inboard, i.e. cutting on the left side of the piece as it turns counter clockwise. I'm very right handed, so if I tried to turn outboard with the lathe running clockwise, i'd have muscle memory issues and have trouble cutting.

[Wally Dickerman]

Basicly, Turning with the lathe in reverse is dangerous and shouldn't be done. An airborne chuck along with a heavy blank can be lethal. However, sanding doesn't put much pressure on the wood so it can be considered safe. And it is effective.

Some lathes, such as my Oneway have a groove cut in the spindle, and Oneway and others make their chucks with one or 2 grub screws to secure it safely to the spindle.

I'm a lefty and do much of my turning on the outboard side of the lathe with the spindle turning in reverse. (actually it's turning in the same direction as it is when turning over the bed. The RH threads on the OB side effectively make it reverse turning)

Wally

[James Combs]

For some of you folks that may have a chuck that uses a bushing adapter like my Nova 2, it has a grub screw but it only tightens down on the adapter bushing. When I got my new Jet1642 and reversing capability which is absent on my midi, I was concerned about accidentally backing the chuck off in reverse. I removed the bushing from the chuck and drilled and taped a 1/4-28 screw hole in one of the adapters wrench flats and added a grub screw. Now it has a grub screw that interfaces with the 1642's spindle and the original. I definitely feel safer now when I am reverse sanding.

[Roger Chandler]

For some of you folks that may have a chuck that uses a bushing adapter like my Nova 2, it has a grub screw but it only tightens down on the adapter bushing.


My SN2 has a set screw in the adapter to lock it on the spindle, and it has a set screw [grub?] also to lock the adapter on the chuck body, to keep everything intact for reversing the lathe.

My Grizzly G0698 also included a faceplate with 2 screws to lock down the faceplate when reversing as well. It works really well.

The main thing is that when you want to remove the chuck you must remember to unscrew the set screws or you can mess up the threads on the spindle. I took a dremel tool with a pointed grinding stone and made a little indention on the last thread so as to give the screw a place to set without any damage to the threads. Holds really well.

[Stephen Cherry]

Mike, reverse is just one switch away-- why resist it?

[Bernie Weishapl]

My chucks all have grub screws. I do turn in reverse sometimes from the other side of the lathe. It can do wonders with tear out and I of course also use it for sanding. Makes a lot of difference in the finished product.

[Mike Cruz]

So, what I'm getting is that most of you that do it, have some sort of set screw or grub that ensures (or at least reduces the risk) of the chuck unscrewing.

I had no intention of using the reverse to turn, only to sand. With no set screws on my chucks, would it be advisable NOT to put a reverse switch in? As Steven stated, I can put one in for really cheap. So, money isn't the factor here.

Now, unless I'm way off base here, since my outboard threads are reverse, I don't NEED a reverse to turn outboard, right? I just need to turn on the "other" side of the bowl than what I would otherwise be used to. And turning outboard with the lathe actually IN reverse means I would need a chuck that really tightened down...which I have a feeling isn't in my price range, so won't happen.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Mike,

I would put the reverse switch in.

Even if you don't use it now, the capability would always be there. Then in the future if you are like me and forget how to install a reverse switch.....well you can see where this is going.

[Scott Hackler]

I use my reverse function with EVERY turning, during the sanding process. I wouldnt be without it. The set screw keeps the chuck attached. I found out the hard way why its important the install this part! That loud whirring sound was my chuck and bowl unscrewing of the lathe and getting prepared for the flight across the shop!

I have turned in reverse, using a scraper to get underneath a bowl lip. Mainly because my lathe placement doesnt allow me to walk around to the back side for the correct angle and I dont want to lean across the ways. But I have only done this a few times.

[Jim Sebring]

I keep a small vial filled with #7 birdshot nearby. I put one pellet between the indent in the grub screw and the spindlle to prevent marring the spindle. I toss the flattened pellet when I take the chuck off the lathe. Use a new one each time.

[Jack Mincey]

I use reverse for sanding all my bowls, it is a great benefit in this area. Since I turn most of my bowls on the outboard side of my lathe reverse is needed to as well. Oneway spindles are made with hardened steel. There is not even a scratch on my spindle from tighten the set screws on my chucks. The threads on the out board side of the lathe are right hand just like the inboard so when outboard turning with motor in reverse the chuck is being tightened just like it is on the inboard side with motor in forward.
Jack

[Dan Hintz]

Not really applicable to most woodwork (though I can think of at least one case), but metal lathes use it for creating left-handed screws (and backing items off).

[David Woodruff]

I use reverse every time I turn, both for turning and sanding. Most good chucks have a set (grub) screw that will prevent un-screwing, the set screw is meant to be tightened, so crank it. Where did grub come from anyway? About the only place I see it referenced is on The Creek forums.

[Eric Jacobson]

Hi Mike. Another vote from me on using the reverse for sanding. Per Roger's comment, I ended up having a happy accident and no longer use the set screw.

About the first time I tried reverse sanding, I gorilla tightened the set screw b/c I had read all the danger warnings. I use a Oneway Stronghold on a Powermatic. The two are a terrible set screw pair for reasons mentioned. The set screw goes right into the spindle threads and damages them. I almost cried when I realized this on my brand new Powermatic. After the initial struggle to unscrew the chuck, the thread must have semi-fixed itself. I haven't needed the set screw since because the messed up spindle thread created a natural grip for my chucks. It's actually nice. I can still unscrew them without a struggle too.

I have noticed the chuck unscrewing itself once or twice during sanding while pressing too hard. In both cases it was very obvious and easy to stop the lathe in time. I sand at less than 200 RPMs. But I think it's easy to notice the chuck unscrewing itself because we are so used to staring at our work all day, in the right place. When that sucker starts to unscrew, it's like "Hey, something ain't right!" and you know it immediately.

[Harvey Schneider]

As I have said in another post, I use reverse primarily for sanding. Even for sanding though, it is possible for the chuck or vacuum chuck to unscrew when running in reverse. When I say it is possible, I mean that it has happened to me.
I don't use a grub screw (perhaps I should) I just exercise caution as to how much pressure I put on the abrasive. I believe that light pressure and moderate speed give the best performance for abrasives anyway.

[dan carter]

Yes, i use the reverse to sand very often; but I also turn in reverse once in awhile, sometimes the karley, twisted, mainly uncooperative wood grain tears out no matter what I try using conventional methods, so I reverse the lathe, and it does make a difference sometimes. I use the set screw in the lathe when turning in reverse.

[Ray Bell]

Mike, my lathe has a reverse function, and I asked this same question several months ago. Most replies were on the advantages of sanding, and they were right. I find that especially on softer woods sanding in one direction raises the grain, and it lays that way. If you reverse the direction on the next grit it will pick up the grains and sand them off. Unfortunately though I have damaged my spindle threads by tightening the set screw. Probably going to have to eventually redie these. I like the suggestion from somebody about adding the small lead shot. Good idea!