Tips For Shop Wiring?

[Don Jarvie]

There's pros and cons to all 3. No. 1 requires planning since everything will be walled up so you need to figure out where you plan on putting everything. While you can run outlets around the perimeter of the shop its planning on if you want to add a separate line for the DC or 30 amp lines for a TS or big tools. This makes the shop look nice and clean.

No 2 and 3 are easier but you have boxes and or conduit on the walls which can get in the way of hanging cabinets, etc.

A few other thoughts. Unless you have someone to help putting OSB on the ceiling is not a one man job. Drywall on the ceiling is fine. I personally don't see the benefit of OSB on a ceiling. Your only hanging lights or an aircleaner so your going to drill into the studs or strapping. Do consider a wood floor for comfort and you can run lines under the floor to various tools. You don't have to trip on cords.

The take away is to plan everything out before you start to work. Don't forget lines for heat/AC, the boat shop and outlets outside the building.

One last thing is they do make oversize plates for outlets.

[John K Jordan]

...Unless you have someone to help putting OSB on the ceiling is not a one man job. Drywall on the ceiling is fine. I personally don't see the benefit of OSB on a ceiling. Your only hanging lights or an aircleaner so your going to drill into the studs or strapping. Do consider a wood floor for comfort and you can run lines under the floor to various tools. You don't have to trip on cords.

It is a big job but I put up 1/2" plywood over my entire shop ceiling by myself with a panel jack commonly used for installing sheet rock. 24'x62' shop.

panel_jack_IMG_20150106_185527_791.jpg

A panel jack can be had for $150 on sale and sold for that or more after use. I decided to keep mine. Great for putting a Jet air filter into place.

I had several reasons to use panels instead of sheet rock, one is to hang things which is not, as you mention, all that important for a ceiling. More important to me is the ability to take down a section if needed to access wiring, compressed air, HVAC ducts, and DC ducts. I did build access hatches but the 3/12 trusses are way to tight to get very far unless you are a squirrel. An extremely minor point is a structural wood panel adds rigidity and strength to the building, perhaps more important to some but mine is built and braced like a bunker anyway. Sheetrock, of course, is better for fire management.

JKJ

[Bill Dufour]

Consider putting a subpanel on the wall farthest from the main panel. Often that will be cheaper then long expensive runs of bigger wire. make sure the lights are on there own breaker. I would install a couple outlets around 5' high near each machine controlled by the main light switch. use these to plug in adjustable task lights and you will not forget to turn them off along with the main lights.
Bill

[Marc Jeske]

One main point - Most receptacles should be at approx 42".

Here's the point - You want to be above any work surface height, and BELOW cabinets or shelves above the work surfaces. Marc

[Richard Gonzalez]

One main point - Most receptacles should be at approx 42".

Here's the point - You want to be above any work surface height, and BELOW cabinets or shelves above the work surfaces. Marc

To add to this concept, rip all your lower OSB sheets into a 42” and a 6” strip (or a 8” or 12” strip, etc.). If you take approach #1 or #2, all your outlets can be installed in the strip, and this is the only section you need to screw in to be able to access. It will be much easier to mark and do cutouts in the narrow strip, and you can cut 3 sided openings. Always easy to add more/larger runs later by dropping down from above through the stud bays.

This is is my plan for my next shop.

[John Lanciani]

To add to this concept, rip all your lower OSB sheets into a 42” and a 6” strip (or a 8” or 12” strip, etc.). If you take approach #1 or #2, all your outlets can be installed in the strip, and this is the only section you need to screw in to be able to access. It will be much easier to mark and do cutouts in the narrow strip, and you can cut 3 sided openings. Always easy to add more/larger runs later by dropping down from above through the stud bays.

This is is my plan for my next shop.

50" to the bottom of the box makes much more sense for receptacles and switches in a shop. That way sheet goods can be leaned against the walls without blocking the devices.

[John K Jordan]

50" to the bottom of the box makes much more sense for receptacles and switches in a shop. That way sheet goods can be leaned against the walls without blocking the devices.

What is this concept? I don't think I have enough wall space anywhere in the shop wide enough to lean a folding chair against it!

JKJ

[Dave Cav]

I just finished my shop. I had the electrical sub put all of the 110 outlets around 48" above the floor with the wiring run behind the wall, and also wire in two 30 amp 240 outlets so I would have temporary power. The walls are 1/2" OSB, as are the ceilings. The panel is 200 amp, surface mount for easy access. Once I finalized all of the equipment locations I ran the 240 power to each machine location in surface mount PVC, mostly 1/2" but one 3/4" for the widebelt 50 amp outlet.