Let us know how it turns out.
Let us know how it turns out.
Howdy Lowell, Since this thread has been revived, one question comes to mind:
Is there a method for insuring an even turn with each twist?
Here is another point to ponder:
On my saws it seems the first tooth at the heel is set from the left side when viewing the saw pointing up and facing away. Since then any saw of mine that has new teeth or no set have all been set in the same way just to make it easy when it comes time to rework a saw.
Is that just me or do others try to standardize some aspects of their saws?
jtk
"A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
- Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)
I recently sharpened a dovetail saw with 15 ppi on a .020 plate. I set the teeth with a 42X that has the hammer (plunger) filed with small chamfers that narrow the hammer for finer teeth. I got a nice, even set on the teeth, but the hammer left a small mark in some teeth where it might have been slightly misaligned. I went back with a very light filing pass on each tooth. I haven't noticed the small marks left by the hammer before.
"A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
- Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)
Jim,
I would flatten the teeth in an old saw, file new teeth, and then set. You can see visually if the teeth are uniform. After sharpening and setting deburr the teeth if neccesary. With an old junker saw, nothing is at risk. I've had really good luck doing this.
I do not recommend screw driver nor hammer set for small tooth saws.
Lowell, this method works very well on dovetail saws. After seing it done I switched to it for small saws and only use saw set pliers for larger teeth.
To those worried about accuracy, don't be. It' a very simple method.
I use this method on all of my resharpenable saws, including a few bowsaw blades that I made. It's simple and works well. Don't fret over accuracy too much: just twist the same amount -- whatever feels and looks right, and you'll be fine. If you go too far and need to remove some set, just hammer the toothline between two pieces of hardwood, or directly on an anvil, depending on how much set you want to remove. The wood method will also tend to even up the set even more -- not that it's necessary.
I haven't tried setting teeth with a hammer yet. That seems to be an even better method for small teeth, as even a screwdriver is too thick sometimes.
Might be a use for an old, beater chisel.....cut a couple slots the width of the teeth,,,,use that to set the teeth. There is a Youtube video out there, showing how to build a frame saw. Builder used this trick to set the teeth on the "watch spring" blade he was using...set first tooth to the left, skip one tooth, set the next to the right....and so on, until the blade is set.
I brought this string back because there is another string about sharpening handsaws.
I am bringing this back because there is another saw set string.
There is another saw set string going, do I am bringing this string back up.