How important are rulers in cabinet making?

[Brian W Evans]

Gabriel,

I just want to add that I find myself using my digital caliper more and more often. A decent caliper won't set you back that much and can do lots of different measurements that other tools can't - or at least can't do as well. They're not a layout tool, but for machine setup, finding out thicknesses, measuring hole depth, etc., it's very useful.

I will also say that I measure less and reference more, the more woodworking I do.

[Derek Cohen]

I am feeling very tiny after seeing Derek's tools.

Sorry David

Would it make you feel any better if I said that I made some of them?

Actually, teasing aside, making a marking gauge or a marking knife is a fun project.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Derek Cohen]

Derek, I love that Veritas sliding square. I've never heard anyone else mention it, but it must be popular since they recently came out with a 10" blade for it.

Brian, thanks for the heads up. I did not know this.

I mentioned earlier that I use a combination square this way - they are useful for scribing lines at a distance from the edge of a board, setting projections, depth gauge, setting the height of a saw blade or router bit ... even for marking or checking square! Who’d of thought that! I use the blades off two as winding sticks (to check for twist in a board).

I have a couple of Mitutoyo digital vernier caliper gauges - Mitutoyo are vey reliable but also very Expensive, however I managed to get them secondhand (be careful about this as there are fakes out there). They are invaluable for checking thicknesses. The Mitutoyo are extremely reliable, for example, about returning to zero, unlike cheapies. The inexpensive other I have is one from Wixey. I like this one as it also does Imperial fractions. That is a useful tool for converting between the two measurements.

I grew up with both Metric and Imperial. I visualise larger lengths better in Imperial, but Metric is easier to use. I am now moving increasingly to metric owing to the European machines I have being metric.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Andrew Seemann]

I am feeling very tiny after seeing Derek's tools.

My first thought was, criminy, that cost more than my whole collection of used planes. And most of my layout tools too.

[Gabriel Marusic]

My machinery already has dual metric/Imperial scales on it...SCM/Minimax slider and J/P. My Festool stuff already had metric scales. Changing a tape on a North American type table saw isn't that difficult and dual scale tapes are available out there to ease the change and to support "those times" when you need to use the alternative scale like I do with some clients. What you don't want to do is mix both systems on the same project if you can avoid that. "Some" of my client work, particularly the CNC stuff, I'm doing in metric even when they specify decimal inches...because I'm just like that. LOL The CNC doesn't care what system I use.

Looks like PEC makes rulers with metric on one side and imperial on the other so I could get the best of both worlds. There seem to be a lot of new "seconds" on ebay where they only have cosmetic issues and didn't pass quality control but measure accurately. A number of them are over 50% off too.

[Gabriel Marusic]

Gabriel,

I just want to add that I find myself using my digital caliper more and more often. A decent caliper won't set you back that much and can do lots of different measurements that other tools can't - or at least can't do as well. They're not a layout tool, but for machine setup, finding out thicknesses, measuring hole depth, etc., it's very useful.

I will also say that I measure less and reference more, the more woodworking I do.

Is there an easy way to tell if the digital caliper is accurate? Not that cost is the only determining factor, but I recall it being pretty cheap.

[Derek Cohen]

Is there an easy way to tell if the digital caliper is accurate? Not that cost is the only determining factor, but I recall it being pretty cheap.

You need to use it against a known and reliable master. Then open and close it. See if it returns to zero each time. Measure the same part a few times.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Derek Cohen]

Good article here on Combination Square from Bob Lang (Popular Woodworking): https://www.popularwoodworking.com/t...ource=hs_email

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Gabriel Marusic]

Good article here on Combination Square from Bob Lang (Popular Woodworking): https://www.popularwoodworking.com/t...ource=hs_email

Regards from Perth


Derek

Thank you, that is an incredibly helpful article. I ordered a Groz 6" Machinist Square a week ago but I really should have ordered a good combination square instead. I didn't realize how versatile they are.

[Scott Bernstein]

I think if one has the option (or luxury) of using fine measuring tools it is a good idea, for many of the reasons already stated in terms of accuracy, repeatability of measurements across various tools, etc... I use a lot of WoodPeckers, Chris Vesper, and Starret intruments. Of course you don't need the fancy stuff. A decent big-box ruler and square will probably do just fine for most things. However, using good measuring tools that may have been expensive to purchase, encourage me to pay more attention to measuring and detail. I think for me at least, this is a big benefit of using good tools.

[Jim Becker]

Looks like PEC makes rulers with metric on one side and imperial on the other so I could get the best of both worlds. There seem to be a lot of new "seconds" on ebay where they only have cosmetic issues and didn't pass quality control but measure accurately. A number of them are over 50% off too.

Just make sure that whatever "set" you buy all match up with measurement. You need consistency across multiple length rules. The LV set I have plus the 40" from Woodcraft all match up exactly...I tested them. And I do highly recommend dual scale regardless of personal preference given we live in the real world.

[Kevin Jenness]

Gabriel,

For a dive down the rabbit hole, here's a recent thread that may interest you https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread....e-cabinetmaker

In the meantime, you can accomplish a lot with a measuring tape, a bevel gauge, a framing square and an adjustable square. If you find the need, rulers, calipers, dial indicators and the rest will follow.

[Ryan Yeaglin]

I think if one has the option (or luxury) of using fine measuring tools it is a good idea, for many of the reasons already stated in terms of accuracy, repeatability of measurements across various tools, etc... I use a lot of WoodPeckers, Chris Vesper, and Starret intruments. Of course you don't need the fancy stuff. A decent big-box ruler and square will probably do just fine for most things. However, using good measuring tools that may have been expensive to purchase, encourage me to pay more attention to measuring and detail. I think for me at least, this is a big benefit of using good tools.

While I don't doubt that woodpecker's stuff is accurate, I feel what they ask for their products is A LOT for aluminum tools, I would much rather spend my money for a Starret tool.

[Jim Dwight]

I have 12 inch, 18 inch, and 24 inch steel rulers which agree with each other and my tape measures. The rip fence for my table saw is set to them. I do not normally use a combination square for measuring. I use stop blocks whenever possible. It lets me avoid cutting to marks which I find not to be reliable. When I got a track saw I started doing it more and got a 0.5mm pencil and a Incra T square. It is a very accurate way to mark within it's length limitations. But I made what I call track positioning sticks with adjustable stops to avoid cutting to marks with the track saw too. Whenever possible I also make parts to fit the project measuring against what is already made rather than making parts to the dimensions of the plans. Even small "errors" add up.

I use metric dimensions only when I have to (e.g. with my domino) and even then I convert to inches. I cannot think in metric. I can manipulate dimensions in metric but I have no feel for what they mean. So I use the dimensions that mean something to me.

I also use a dial caliper but it's main scale is in 64s of an inch. It always seemed like the battery on my digital was shot when I needed to use it. I mainly use it to check thickness.

I have an old Skil biscuit joiner I rarely use. But it's crummy fence caused me to make a bunch of blocks about 2x4 inches that vary in thickness by 1/16 inch. I have them from 1/8 to over 1 inch. Very handy for setting table saw blade height, router bit height, etc.

[Myk Rian]

Get a good steel rule, or 2. 15" - 24", and a 4'er. A carpenters square also.
Also, a set of marking tools such as a scribe and/or chisel tip.

I won a set of scribes from sawmill creek some years ago for making the 1 millionth post.
It's something I take very good care of, and made a cherry box for them.

If you intend on doing precision work, they are a must. Without, this would have been much more difficult to make.