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  1. #1
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    Kieth I would take to a local ac shop. Could be low Freon or bad compressor. These don't usually have taps on them to fill and check Freon. The appliance guys have tools that puncture the copper lines and add fittings. They also know about start and run capacitors. They may save you some money in the end.
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  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ron Gosnell View Post
    Kieth I would take to a local ac shop. Could be low Freon or bad compressor. These don't usually have taps on them to fill and check Freon. The appliance guys have tools that puncture the copper lines and add fittings. They also know about start and run capacitors. They may save you some money in the end.
    This is good advice. I tend to agree it is probably low Freon or bad compressor. If it's running full time, and all the fans are on, then it's not a controller or sensor issue. Compressors either run and cool or they don't (they never intentionally run and don't cool based on a setting).**

    Edit: **I'll add that this is based on my knowledge of commercial food and beer coolers. There may very well be something different with your smaller unit.
    Last edited by Keith Downing; 12-06-2016 at 6:10 PM.
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  3. #3
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    Looks like a small rotary compressor. Is the underneath side of the air cooled condenser coil above clean of dirt and fan running full on? Also the discharge line coming out the the compressor should be hot and it looks like there is a electric solenoid valve Tee'd into it, is that correct? Sometimes on smaller units the compressor will run all the time and when its not calling for cooling they open that valve electrically and bypass hot gas into either the suction line or evaporator. There are better ways for temperature control, but we are looking at a price point.

    PS I still have my gauges and vacuum pump etc, how far are you from Iowa?
    Last edited by Bill George; 12-06-2016 at 6:54 PM.
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  4. #4
    Your thoughts make sense Bill. After some basic online research, I could not tell how these systems control water temp if they get too cold. I have seen a more sophisticated type of digital hot gas bypass controller on SMC and Shinwa units, but there is usually a heater function also built into the systems. I agree with the others, that you can never discount low coolant or a bad compressor, but you would hate to spend that kind of money to find out you had a stuck valve or relay. Something to be said about taping components with a screw driver. Looking forward to hearing what the root cause is Keith.

  5. #5
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    I would imagine low freon. Especially if compressor is hot. It is trying to work...
    I assume you are pumping water.
    And I've got a 5000 and it is set at 19.7C. Room is about 18. Compressor comes on about every 30 minutes for maybe 30 seconds when I'm not running, laser pushes temp up to 20c and compressor will come on till back near 19c.
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  6. #6
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    I used to work on these systems using hot gas bypass, and if the bypass valve is leaking internally or the coil burnt out they will go into dumping hot gas back into the system. The largest one I ever worked on with that system was over to the Firestone plant here, and it had a 75 Hp refrigeration compressor running a air dryer. Cycling the compressor on and off is a poor way of exact temperature control.
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  7. #7
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    Thanks, great suggestions all around. I think I will see if there is an ac shop I can take it to per Rons suggestion.
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  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bill George View Post
    Looks like a small rotary compressor. Is the underneath side of the air cooled condenser coil above clean of dirt and fan running full on? Also the discharge line coming out the the compressor should be hot and it looks like there is a electric solenoid valve Tee'd into it, is that correct? Sometimes on smaller units the compressor will run all the time and when its not calling for cooling they open that valve electrically and bypass hot gas into either the suction line or evaporator. There are better ways for temperature control, but we are looking at a price point.

    PS I still have my gauges and vacuum pump etc, how far are you from Iowa?
    Thanks Bill long ways away unfortunately in Oklahoma
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  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ron Gosnell View Post
    Kieth I would take to a local ac shop. Could be low Freon or bad compressor. These don't usually have taps on them to fill and check Freon. The appliance guys have tools that puncture the copper lines and add fittings. They also know about start and run capacitors. They may save you some money in the end.
    Ron what would an ac store be called? Did some googling didn't find much except ac repair technicians like you'd call to your house.
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  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Keith Winter View Post
    Ron what would an ac store be called? Did some googling didn't find much except ac repair technicians like you'd call to your house.
    The average Joe residential AC guy would not have a clue. You need to find a shop that does commercial refrigeration, and take it in.

    Did you check if that bypass valve is dumping hot gas? You can do that by touch, the discharge line comes up and is piped to the inlet of the condenser but there is a Tee fitting with the hot gas solenoid valve on the branch. The discharge line is hot as also the shell of the rotary compressor. If the HG bypass valve is closed for allowing cooling, the line coming out of that valve should be just warm and further away should be cool. If the line is hot all the way of course that means the valve is open for some reason, either by the control system, bad coil or internal leaking. The first two can be fixed, the third requires opening the sealed system and replacing the valve.
    Last edited by Bill George; 12-07-2016 at 9:21 AM.
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  11. #11
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    How old is your chiller? If it is a genuine S&A built CW series chiller, most all of those come with a two or three year warranty. S&A does actually provide a bit of customer support when you contact them. Don't let some other AC person do anything to your unit if it is still under warranty.
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  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Doug Fisher View Post
    How old is your chiller? If it is a genuine S&A built CW series chiller, most all of those come with a two or three year warranty. S&A does actually provide a bit of customer support when you contact them. Don't let some other AC person do anything to your unit if it is still under warranty.
    I can vouch for this. I emailed them when one of the units I bought was DOA. They helped trouble shoot it and ended up sending me a free replacement pump via 2 day DHL on their dime. And this was a product I had bought second hand, not directly from them. I was very impressed.
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  13. #13
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    Thanks guys, it's about 11 months old.
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