Thought this was a cool idea to eliminate snipe.

[Brian Runau]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NusAQMTEcCY&t=2s

Brian

[Richard Coers]

Been doing that for decades when planing thin stock. That guy needs an outfield table for that little saw more than a snipe preventer

[Derek Cohen]

I did something similar to that 20 years ago. For my Delta lunchbox, the beds were adjusted and fixed to form a coplanar and flat surface ….







This eliminated all snipe with this machine.

Note that this might not work for some machines since there can be other causes of snipe, such as rollers nor feeding evenly.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Lee Schierer]

I have the Delta 12-1/2" planer and I built a cabinet, built from scrap 3/4" plywood that fits along part of one wall in my shop. The top of the cabinet is two layers the base of the planer sets on the lower one. The top of the upper layer is level with the extension tables. I have about 2 feet of in feed and 30" of out feed flat wood surface before the wood hits or leaves the tables on the planer. I still have to be careful not to let long pieces sag going in or coming out. If my shop was larger I would make a longer cabinet so there is more in feed table.

There were a number of safety concerns I saw in that video, but they would be the topic for a video safety review thread.

I cleaned up my shop a bit and took a photo of my planer cabinet. The compartments underneath store my shop vac, various jigs and sleds, my dust pans, air compressor and a miter sled. The orange bag collects small cut offs and scraps that I use to start camp fires when we go camping. The drawer stores my hammer drill kit, nozzles and tubes for the shop vac and spare parts for the Christmas lights.
20230401_091303.jpg

[Rick Potter]

Add me to the group. Been using one of these on my DeWalt 735 for at least 15 years. Wax the melamine once in a while.

[Derek Cohen]

I have the Delta 12-1/2" planer and I built a cabinet, built from scrap 3/4" plywood that fits along part of one wall in my shop. The top of the cabinet is two layers the base of the planer sets on the lower one. The top of the upper layer is level with the extension tables. I have about 2 feet of in feed and 30" of out feed flat wood surface before the wood hits or leaves the tables on the planer. I still have to be careful not to let long pieces sag going in or coming out. If my shop was larger I would make a longer cabinet so there is more in feed table.

There were a number of safety concerns I saw in that video, but they would be the topic for a video safety review thread.

Lee, add the method (above) I used on the Delta. That will provide all the support you need for a longer bed.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[andy bessette]

With my old Delta 13" planer I get no snipe.

[Warren Lake]

what Richard said.

Watching those two sheet cuts on the table saw are you serious. Guy needs to go to school.

[Stan Calow]

So, snipe is caused by alignment and movement of the in/out feed tables? I had not heard it put that way before.

[Grant Wilkinson]

I tried this with a DW735 and still got snipe on the trailing end. As I understand it, on this planer at least, the snipe is caused by the roller dropping down over the end of the piece so that trailing end is cut a bit deeper. The only solution that I have found so far is to run a sacrificial piece just before the good piece exits. The sacrificial piece holds the roller up and there is no snipe. It's a bit of a pain to coordinate, though. Plus, it only works if the good piece is not full width.

I'm with Lee. I couldn't watch the entire video owing to all the bad practices of this guy. Another topic for another day.

[Brian Runau]

I tried this with a DW735 and still got snipe on the trailing end. As I understand it, on this planer at least, the snipe is caused by the roller dropping down over the end of the piece so that trailing end is cut a bit deeper. The only solution that I have found so far is to run a sacrificial piece just before the good piece exits. The sacrificial piece holds the roller up and there is no snipe. It's a bit of a pain to coordinate, though. Plus, it only works if the good piece is not full width.

I'm with Lee. I couldn't watch the entire video owing to all the bad practices of this guy. Another topic for another day.

I have the DW735 with the tables made for it. After adjusting them a little high, I find if I maintain gentle downward pressure on the infeed until it is under both rollers and gentle pressure upward on the bottom of the board as it comes out of both rollers I can almost eliminate the snipe problem. Thanks. Brian

[Edward Weber]

what Richard said.

Watching those two sheet cuts on the table saw are you serious. Guy needs to go to school.

Just watching his methods of work in general is a bit painful. The scoring and back and forth with the miter saw was enough fo me.

Snipe is caused when the board is not supported by both feed rollers. If the leading or trailing edge is not held tight to the table, the free end drops and pivots the end in the machine up into the blade slightly.
You just need support along the length of the cut, whether it be better in-feed and out-feed tables or support rollers or you manually support the wood by hand.
Any planer without extended tables or some type of support is going to snipe.

[Matthew Hills]

So, snipe is caused by alignment and movement of the in/out feed tables? I had not heard it put that way before.

Snipe can be caused if the board isn't kept flat and either the leading or trailing edge tilt up into the cutterhead. This can be improved with improving support of the workpiece.

Snipe can also be caused if the planer's cutterhead isn't stable and shifts down into the workpiece when only one of the rollers is in contact with the board. This can be helped by running boards end-end, or outrigger boards. Adjusting roller pressure might help on some planers.

Matt

[Richard Coers]

Snipe was more of an issue before bench top planers were even invented. Industrial planers had bed rollers in them for less friction. Some planers had a quick lever to drop the rollers below the bed, but others took adjustment to do that. In those days you had a piece of scrap stock that you fed in first to keep the pressure bar and chip breaker at the correct level as you sent in a piece of good stock. Then you overlapped the feed of other boards so everything was in alignment for the rest of the batch of boards.

[Michael Burnside]

Just watching his methods of work in general is a bit painful. The scoring and back and forth with the miter saw was enough fo me.

I thought I was the only one. The back and forth like it was a hand saw, ugh…