How important are rulers in cabinet making?

[glenn bradley]

These conversations are always valuable since we all tend to do things a little bit differently than each other. I returned the iGaging combination squares because the quality just wasn't that much better than something like a Swanson or an Empire from the BORG. PEC's hit the mark for me at about the same price point. The only Starrett's I have were gifted .

I put a small amount of effort into getting a set of rules and a tape that all matched and were consistent along their length. I certainly wouldn't want to fudge through with only a tape measure. As you noted, the tape is for roughing out things and rules and squares are for specifics. That doesn't mean you need to spend a ton. A set of these for $35 (although some folks like them double sided and square ended at both ends) and one of these for $7 (right to left because I am right handed) meet most of my needs during a build even though I have (Three Amigos reference) a plethora of other measuring and marking tools.

Trust me, everyone else's answers are right too. The best measuring tool for you is the one that let's you make accurate parts and saves you from do-overs and force-fits.

[Robert Hazelwood]

I have 12" rules with fine graduations that get used for anything they are large enough for. For larger stuff I use a tape measure. The rule is more convenient and probably more accurate.

But rulers and tapes are for what I call nominal dimensions, meaning a number off of a plan or that I pulled out of my head. These don't have to be incredibly accurate because they are just setting a baseline that other parts get fit to. There is a limit to how accurately you can mark from a ruler or tape, and some aspects of fine work require more precision.

Tools like marking gauges and techniques like transfer marking offer much more precision when required. Story sticks work great as well. These are low tech ways to get really accurate.

I also use dial indicators, calipers, and feeler gauges to measure small relative distances, like how much fatter is a tenon than the mortise I'm trying to fit it into, and after measuring I can use the same tools to adjust the machine setup to compensate.

Other times I just fit by trial and error, trimming a bit at a time and test fitting. This is inefficient but still effective.

So I really don't find the need for many rulers and tapes or for particularly fancy ones. I wouldn't at all mind having a 24" and 36" rule just to avoid wrangling the tape measure as often, but it's not been a priority.

[Gabriel Marusic]

These conversations are always valuable since we all tend to do things a little bit differently than each other. I returned the iGaging combination squares because the quality just wasn't that much better than something like a Swanson or an Empire from the BORG. PEC's hit the mark for me at about the same price point. The only Starrett's I have were gifted .

I put a small amount of effort into getting a set of rules and a tape that all matched and were consistent along their length. I certainly wouldn't want to fudge through with only a tape measure. As you noted, the tape is for roughing out things and rules and squares are for specifics. That doesn't mean you need to spend a ton. A set of these for $35 (although some folks like them double sided and square ended at both ends) and one of these for $7 (right to left because I am right handed) meet most of my needs during a build even though I have (Three Amigos reference) a plethora of other measuring and marking tools.

Trust me, everyone else's answers are right too. The best measuring tool for you is the one that let's you make accurate parts and saves you from do-overs and force-fits.

The responses here have been incredibly helpful. I'm leaning towards getting a set of rulers like you suggested and then I think I'll have to go to the store and find a tape measure that matches the ruler's measurements. I like that cabinet makers tape measure though, hopefully they have something similar at the BORG.

[Jon Endres]

My go-to devices for most measuring around the shop are a set of Utilitas hook rules from Lee Valley, a 16' Stanley Leverlock tape measure, an old Stanley combination square, an Empire aluminum "speed square", and a Starrett dial caliper. I have other stuff but those are my go-to devices. Also, the heavy acrylic drafting triangles (Alvin, K&E, Staedtler Mars) are generally considered to be very accurate, I keep a couple in my shop to set square and 45° on my saws and fences.

[Jim Becker]

Gabriel, I have a set of the steel rules from Lee Valley...and they all match. I picked up a 40" from Woodcraft (house brand) and got lucky that it also matched. What I really like about them is they are dual scale...inches and metric. I work mostly in the latter, but for some clients have to work in the former. One set of rules to do it all.

[michael dilday]

If you buy quality tools they will all match. If they don't throw them out. You cannot use just one measuring device for everything. You will need a tape measure and a 12" combination square for starters. They are the most basic you will need. For a tape measure I recommend the Stanley Leverlock. The reason I use this is because the tab is protected so if you drop the tape measure it doesn't bend the tab. I use the 16' because it is long enough to measure anything I need but still compact enough for ease of use. A story stick is a nice compliment but not necessary. If you are doing any adjustable shelves then a Kreg shelf pin jig or similar is your friend. Surprisingly enough most of your measuring will be done when you cut your parts on the table saw or miter saw. Make sure your tapes on the table saw and miter saw are calibrated.