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Thread: Okay folks....pony up.......

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
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    Lewiston, Idaho
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    Okay folks....pony up.......

    A couple of questions as I'm waiting delivery on some basic reference material:


    1. What's the difference between a bowl gouge and a spindle gouge......thickness of the steel maybe?

    2. What is High Speed Steel?......is it chrome vanadium steel?
    Ken

    So much to learn, so little time.....

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    New Orleans LA
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    1,334
    Ken, I can only respond to your second question.High Speed steel is (I believe) a high carbon steel with no other alloy agents. But, it has been almost 60 years since I took metallurgy; so I may have forgotten, or things (terms) may have changed.
    18th century nut --- Carl

  3. #3
    ken, most popular lathe tools are made of m2 steel same as the knives i grind for the moulder, it`s flat tough! not really affected by heat(i grind knives dry) it`s clasified as a hss, another steel gaining popularity is t1, i`ve used planer blades made of this stuff but never ground it......i`m not a metallurgist by any means, but the term "chrome vandium" is not a particular steel type i`m familiar with other than seeing it printed on taiwan/china socket sets.. as for gouges a bowl gouge is generally heavy and long with a deep sweep while a spindle gouge is somewhat lighter/shorter and comes with varying sweeps....hope this laymans analogy helps? .02 tod
    TO WHOM IT MAY CONCERN; I ACCEPT FULL LEGAL RESPONSIBILITY FOR MY POSTS ON THIS FORUM, ALL POSTS ARE MADE IN GOOD FAITH CONTAINING FACTUAL INFORMATION AS I KNOW IT.

  4. #4
    Join Date
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    Ken - Bowl gouges tend to have deeper and narrower flutes while spindle gouges are wider and shallower. Then there are are various grinds that can be put on them.

    Look in catalogs or online and you'll begin to notice certain commonalites.

    Then again, it's kinda like golf clubs. To me they all look the same but those who use them swear by the subtle differences.

    For a bowl gouge, my suggestion would be to acquire one that has an Irish Grind, Celtic Grind, or Ellsworth Grind already on it. These three grinds are essentially the same.

    And nope, it's not the thickness of the steel. The thickness (actually diameter, since they all begin life as round stock) is what determines the size of the gouge, not its intended use.

    That's about the sum of my knowledge. I'm sure someone will come along and set us both straight. Remember what's been said about trusting me!
    Only the Blue Roads

  5. #5
    where`s bill to `splain ??????? .02 tod
    TO WHOM IT MAY CONCERN; I ACCEPT FULL LEGAL RESPONSIBILITY FOR MY POSTS ON THIS FORUM, ALL POSTS ARE MADE IN GOOD FAITH CONTAINING FACTUAL INFORMATION AS I KNOW IT.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
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    SE PA - Central Bucks County
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    Here is a useful link about bowl gouges...here is another link to the same site (yea, they sell, but this is good text) that discusses what tools to buy and what they are for.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Lewiston, Idaho
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    Jim thanks for the links. I saved them for future reference. At the time you posted I was downloading and viewing the Wolverine jig video and in the basic video they very shortly discussed the difference.
    Ken

    So much to learn, so little time.....

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    WNC mountains
    Posts
    143

    M2 Hss

    M2 is a high chrome steel that looks like stainless. It is supposed to keep an edge four times longer than high carbon steel. When grinding or even in use, high carbon is heat sensitive. If it turns blue it has lost it's hardness and will need to be re-hardened. M2 is hardened above 2200°F and can even be bent with a torch without affecting tool hardness. Homemade tools can be made from drill rod and old allen wrenches (carbon), etc. I like to purchase prehardened M2 tool bits from wttools.com. Thirty dollars will get you enough steel for fifteen to twenty tools that are as good as the $35 to 45 each tools in the catalogs. Work the steel with grinders, etc; too hard for hacksaws and files. Most scrapers, point tools, etc. but NOT gouges are easy to make. Turn handles from exotic woods that fit your hands, not the general public. A lot of specialty profiles are available only from your own shop. Most turning tools over twenty years old are carbon. They work fine; they say that they actually get sharper than M2. Look for them at garage sales, auctions, ebay. They can always be re-shaped to some shape you do not have.

    The pleasure of turning something really good is only multiplied by the knowledge that you did it with a homemade tool!

    Bill in WNC mountains

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    WNC mountains
    Posts
    143

    You should join the AAW and a local club

    There is an American Association of Woodturners club in Kennewick WA. http://pweb.netcom.com/~gdj/index.html. Mapquest says that it is about 135 miles from you. We have members in seven states for our club in Asheville, NC. The AAW is www.woodturner.org. I believe the national symposium for 2007 is in Portland. There will be over a thousand people there.

    Buy two cheap 2 x4s from the borg. Rip down the center and cut to 9 inch lengths, You now have fifty practice pieces for less than $10. Make chips, sawdust, splinters, coves, beads, and toothpicks. When done you will have become fairly knowledgable about your tools and what they do. WEAR A FACE SHIELD! Splinters in the cheek, HURT.

    Bill in WNC mountains

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