Veritas LA/BU planes or Custom planes?

[Dan Kraakenes]

Im considering upgrading my single plane to more dedicated 4,5,7 planes.

Im currently used to a #4, but I have to large hands for it, so was first thinking of upgrading to a 4 1/2.

But.. then again I am wondering if I should go for the Low Angle / Bevel up planes or the "Custom" Veritas planes.

All of them have much more room for my hands.. but Im not sure which is "better". Anybody have extensive use with both?

The Veritas LA/BU are the same.. just different name for it?
The Veritas Customs are Bevel Down..

Both have "freestanding" handle and adjustable mouth.


Im also finally getting a dedicated shooting plane, so that won't be a consideration this time.


Veritas has 3 different LA/BU smoothers... what a mess. Im considering the LA one of them.
Could anybody tell me what is the difference between these 3 are??

[Jerome Andrieux]

Three LV LA smoothing planes: small #3, medium #4 and large #4 1/2. Pick the size that fits your work, your hands should be ok anyhow. The larger one blades are the same size as the jack’s or the jointer’s. It could be nice to swap blades.

You can’t really go wrong with LV LA planes.

[Derek Cohen]

Dan, I did a major review of these planes here: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolRev...omPlanes1.html

Regards from Perth

Derek

[David Bassett]

The advantage to a bevel-down plane is you can use a chip-breaker. (Setting it requires some skill, but it's the ultimate tear-out control mechanism.) LV has some non-custom BD planes too. (Also, for LV money LN BD planes are in play.) A lot is feel and personal preference.

[Curt Putnam]

The BU tote style, hated and loved in probably equal numbers.is particularly well suited to large hands. Said totes are available on the custom plane series. For my hands (considered large @ 4.25" across) these totes are infinitely more comfortable than a Stanley tote. Others disagree.

[glenn bradley]

The BU / BD debate may take you off track of what you are asking. Whether my hands are large or small would not determine my use of a narrower or wider iron (No 4 versus No 4-1/2). If the No 4 is crowded for your hands the tote config on the Custom No 4 may solve that. Since you are used to BD/chip breaker planes you may want to stick with that. I have both and use them differently. A BU with a steep angle and a BD with a close chip breaker can both handle tough figure. I like the result of the close chip breaker on most figured woods but, would not want to choose my 'users' based on the exception rather than on the rule.

[Jim Matthews]

Regardless of your eventual choice, the upcharge for PM V-11 steel is worthwhile.

[Warren Mickley]

Buying a bevel up smoother is like buying a tricycle. Yes, it works. Yes it is easier to learn. No, it is not what you want in the long run. No, you don't want to spend hundreds of dollars on it.

Buying a double iron plane is like a bicycle: a better long term investment.

[Tony Wilkins]

Buying a bevel up smoother is like buying a tricycle. Yes, it works. Yes it is easier to learn. No, it is not what you want in the long run. No, you don't want to spend hundreds of dollars on it.

Buying a double iron plane is like a bicycle: a better long term investment.

so what would a unicycle be?

[steven c newman]

Single iron wood body....with a tapered iron, at that.

[David Bassett]

so what would a unicycle be?

I'm going with chisel. (I'm sure, with enough skill, you can flatten and smooth a board with one!)

[Jim Koepke]

Whether my hands are large or small would not determine my use of a narrower or wider iron (No 4 versus No 4-1/2).

A #4-1/2 is a slightly longer plane. In the Stanley/Bailey design, not only is there a bit more space, the tote is also larger.

so what would a unicycle be?

A standard angle bevel up block plane? That or a side rabbet plane.

jtk

[Dan Kraakenes]

So..
Custom BD for more experienced.
Chipbreaker - a bit more cumbersome sharpening.


BU/LA for beginners or a lot of tropical wood.
No shipbreaker - faster and easier sharpening

[Josko Catipovic]

Maybe I'm one of the great unwashed, but I don't get the BU stuff. I compared my #7 Record with a LV #7 BU on some tricky white oak. Both blades sharpened together and similarly. Tearout difference was night and day. Admittedly, I know my Record well, but still, I could not get the BU jointer to come anywhere close. I later learned that it would have done better with a steeper-ground blade. It seems one needs to get several blades for each BU plane.
That said, I do get tearout occasionally with my BD planes, but have learned to either clean it up with a scraper or sand it out.

[lowell holmes]

Google "Bedrock Planes". I have a set of them and they are really great.