Boss vs Thunder

[John Stegenga]

it's an 80 watt tube - he showed me the tube in the back that says it's rated 100w.
but he's doing like 170mm/s and 27% power on the cutting board he let me make. Faster than the glowforge I have, for sure!

John

[Bert Kemp]

whys he running the power so low no wonder he's at 170mmps. bump the power up and speed it up
how long is his tube?

[John Lifer]

One of the things that I've noticed with my laser is that very thin lines just do not engrave well over about 250 to 300mm/s. I run my 1390 Ray fine at a max of 400. I could probably make it go 500 or so, but I'd have to watch it way closer on a lot of things.
I can watch it and it will try to fire, but moving 400mm/s and a thin line just doesn't give it time to do anything but touch the surface. Slow it down and it works pretty well on thin stuff.
Dark engraving? A lot of times I have to make two passes, and even then, the laser burns deep but doesn't leave a char. (which comes off anyway if exposed to the elements)

[Bert Kemp]

To get a little darker take it out of focus a little. Not sure by what you consider thin lines. anything in my engravings that is hairline I vector engrave.

[Rich Harman]

Baltic Birch doesn't really engrave very dark. Someone makes a product that you spray on to darken it up - never used myself.

[Jerome Stanek]

it's an 80 watt tube - he showed me the tube in the back that says it's rated 100w.
but he's doing like 170mm/s and 27% power on the cutting board he let me make. Faster than the glowforge I have, for sure!

John

And probable more dependable and better made. I have been following the Glowforge forum and they sure have a lot of problems and the mods close the threads before you know the outcome. Isn't it so nice to do most of the support through E mail that may get read in a day or 2.

[John Stegenga]

I dunno - keep the tube working longer? I'd guess the tube is over 3 feet / 3.5 feet?
What settings do you use, if I might ask? I'm gonna go smoke cigars with him saturday.

[John Stegenga]

I'm just a hobby guy. Friend is too, but he's got money like I got debt.. so yeah, I'm on lens 2 and lid cable 3, in 2 years with the glowforge..

And probable more dependable and better made. I have been following the Glowforge forum and they sure have a lot of problems and the mods close the threads before you know the outcome. Isn't it so nice to do most of the support through E mail that may get read in a day or 2.

[Bert Kemp]

I dunno - keep the tube working longer? I'd guess the tube is over 3 feet / 3.5 feet?
What settings do you use, if I might ask? I'm gonna go smoke cigars with him saturday.

I'd measure the tube length , an 80 watt tube is going to be a little over 4 feet long and a little over 3" in Dia. If its 3 and half like you think its a 40 watt tube or less. That half of the 80 watt.

[John Stegenga]

Yeah I will - there is an extender cover sticking out the side... the tube is big around, and i saw a label on it with a power graph saying it was 100w tube, but the maker of the machine sets the controller to 80? not sure that makes sense, that's just what I remember....

[Rich Harman]

...label on it with a power graph saying it was 100w tube, but the maker of the machine sets the controller to 80? not sure that makes sense, that's just what I remember....

Most tubes will have a max tested power, and then there is the recommended max power for long life. The best way to make sure you are not over-driving the tube is to use an ammeter. The controller settings are nearly meaningless.

The power setting you set in the software tells the laser power supply how much power to send to the tube - but, the power supply itself needs to be adjusted so that the power requested matches the actual output. I have yet to see a Chinese laser that was set up correctly from the factory. With an ammeter you know exactly how the tube is being driven. Setting the software to 80% is a good approximation that probably won't overdrive the tube.

No laser should be without an ammeter. If you don't have one you can buy one and install it yourself, it is not difficult. It needs to be one that measures from 0 to 50 milliamps - and it needs to be analog (with a needle) not digital.

[Kev Williams]

The 80w RECI in my 1390 Triumph has a tested-wattage of 110, and the controller is supposedly limited to "98%", which is probably around 32mA and that 110 watts, but I'll never know!

A milliamp meter really is a necessity with this things. I've never gone past 27mA when cutting, which on my machine is 72% power. I've engraved at 75% power a couple of times, but not for long. My machine turned 7 years old last month, and I'm sure not overdriving the tube has helped with the longevity...

[John Stegenga]

Hmm I'll mention that to him. where would one install such a thing?
PS to the OP.... sorry for the hijack.

[Rich Harman]

My machine turned 7 years old last month, and I'm sure not overdriving the tube has helped with the longevity...

I think my Reci 80W is nine years old now. I haven't been using it much lately but it appears to be the same as when new. I did test the power a year or so ago and it was still putting out over 80W.

I run mine at 24 to 26 mA max.

[Rich Harman]

Hmm I'll mention that to him. where would one install such a thing?

The standard place to mount them is in a hole on the machine enclosure near the LCD control panel. Doesn't really matter where, personal preference.

What does matter, and is extremely important, is that the meter be put in series with the tube on the negative side.

The positive side of the tube, the wire that comes out of the laser power supply is at tens of thousands of volts. Once the energy passes through the tube and comes out the other side the voltage is at near zero. You install the meter between the negative side of the tube and ground.