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Thread: Building Your Own And Improving Upon The Oneida Dust Sentry Bin Level Sensor

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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
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    Berwick, Nova Scotia, Canada
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    425
    I just did a simple mod to deal with the issue. I took a small shop vac and stuck the hose into the barrel through a hole in the bottom side of the barrel (55 gal). No caulking or sealing, just a reasonably tight fit. Shop vac is activated by the same remote that turns on my DC. In my opinion, much better solution than making holes in my DC.
    Mike

  2. #2
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    Jun 2015
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    Sacramento, CA
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Chalmers View Post
    I just did a simple mod to deal with the issue. I took a small shop vac and stuck the hose into the barrel through a hole in the bottom side of the barrel (55 gal). No caulking or sealing, just a reasonably tight fit. Shop vac is activated by the same remote that turns on my DC. In my opinion, much better solution than making holes in my DC.
    I dont think youd have to make a hole in the dust collector, just the incoming ductwork going into the main inlet. And if that were the case, I think Id rather do that then dedicate a whole vacuum just to keep the bag in my dust collectors dust bin pressed against the bin. There just has to be a simpler way.
    If at first you don't succeed, redefine success!

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2014
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    Lugoff, SC
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    That actually sounds like a plausible solution... I may well give it a try! Thanks guys, I love this place!

  4. #4
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    Jun 2015
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    Quote Originally Posted by Michael Stockdale View Post
    That actually sounds like a plausible solution... I may well give it a try! Thanks guys, I love this place!
    If you try it let us know!
    If at first you don't succeed, redefine success!

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Tippecanoe County, IN
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    836
    Quote Originally Posted by Ben Rivel View Post
    I dont think youd have to make a hole in the dust collector, just the incoming ductwork going into the main inlet.
    I think the pressure at that point under most operating conditions won't be low enough to keep the bag pressed against the barrel. The pressure you're tapping into has to be lower than the pressure inside the bag. That pressure is essentially the same as the pressure at the bottom of the vortex.

    As the air enters the cyclone it expands thus increasing static pressure. As it flows around and down there's pressure drop due to frictional losses. Unless your duct is really small compared to the inlet that loss will likely be more than the expansion gain.

    On the way up the inside of the vortex and outlet tube you get both contraction and frictional losses. The top of the outlet tube should have a lower static pressure than the bottom of the vortex. I think a tap here will do a much better job of keeping the bag inflated.
    Beranek's Law:

    It has been remarked that if one selects his own components, builds his own enclosure, and is convinced he has made a wise choice of design, then his own loudspeaker sounds better to him than does anyone else's loudspeaker. In this case, the frequency response of the loudspeaker seems to play only a minor part in forming a person's opinion.
    L.L. Beranek, Acoustics (McGraw-Hill, New York, 1954), p.208.

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