I have been finding bits with the Morris tapered ends at the flea markets for good prices and sharpen them in the Drill Doctor.
I recall many years ago the guy next to me had a live center multiple drill head on the turret on his lathe. At that time it looked like the strangest lathe accessory I'd ever seen. The lathe pressed the spring loaded multi-drill head against the piece in the headstock causing it to rotate drilling every hole in a flange at one shot.
Not sure what that would be equivalent to today. That was close to 50 years ago. Probably something much simpler.
Since retiring I'm rarely around machinery.
BusyBee online store carries a ½” chuck for $16.99 Can$ (order #B045)and the threaded MT2 arbor at $6.99 Can$ (order # B110D)
https://www.busybeetools.com/product...e-mt2-jt6.html
Last edited by Leo Van Der Loo; 03-09-2018 at 11:21 PM.
Have fun and take care
Thanks Leo.
Whoa. I get a "site cannot be reached".
Dang, Leo. Got in but arbors are sold out.
What advantage does a drawbar style provide? Do they work with collets?
I have switched over to what John mentioned. A couple a dedicated bits with a #2 morse taper to fit my tail stock . I found a selection of sizes and lengths on Ebay for about 20 cents on the dollar. I went with a 7/8" diameter. There were some as long as 20". I like this much better than dealing with forstners . I use them for drilling a pilot hole in hollow forms and even on bowls because it is so quick and easy. I haven't used my jacobs chuck once since I switched over. The only use I see for the Jacobs in the future is if there is a need to drill a large precise forstner hole in something.
That’s too bad, they weren’t when I looked, Lee Valley has them to, but is quite a bit more expensive.
http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/pag...at=1,180,42334
The threaded arbor is needed if you want to use the chuck in the headstock to hold some wood or metal you want to turn without the tailstock keeping pressure on it, as the chuck can/will come loose and fly out, possibly damaging you and or the lathe.
Also the regular arbors have a flat tail on them and this often interferes with fitting them in a lathe, headstock or tailstock.
Have fun and take care
Of the top of my head I recall the largest drill with a MT2 shank is ⅞”, #3 mt would be 1¼”, if you are lucky you can get a couple of theses bits for the price of a good drill chuck on ebay.
Wanting to go smaller than ½” or larger than ⅞” and you will need something beside these bits, so a good chuck would be advisable IMO
Have fun and take care
I’m new to turning so I’ll draw from experience with other machines, I setup my lathe with this experience in mind.
Under 3/8” (actually I believe 10mm) I use a chuck with Morse 2 taper. Above that size specific collets in most machines with a taper or drill bits with a taper. Basically the fewer variables the more accurate.
For prep in using collets or fine chucks I am careful to remove any burrs that have developed on drill bits from my Jacobs chucks.
Prashun,
My Jacobs chuck is a Golden Goose brand that I think came from Craft Supplies. It is NOT a live chuck. It only rotates when it slips in the morse taper, which does happen more often than I'd like.
My my way to overcome that problem was to drill and tap a hole for a set screw in the tail stock quill. The set screw seats on a small flat spot ground on the shaft of the chuck. When a punch-mark on the chuck shaft and one on the end of the quill are aligned, I know the flat spot is in the right place and can tighten the set screw.
Thanks, Guys. I purchased on from Harbor Freight. Works as expected.