It's when you have a good joint, usually an old glue joint that you can run your hand over the joint and feel the seem raised.
Thanks John, don’t know why I’ve never heard of this. I thought these things were due to expansion/contraction of the wood itself.
Just ran across this article: http://brownellfurniture.com/factors...n-woodworking/
Will longer clamping times reduce the amount of creep?
Last edited by Mark Daily; 09-10-2019 at 8:33 PM.
Just be sure to wash it off your hands ASAP...as I understand it, the vinegar emulsifies/makes the amines water-soluble, increasing chances for skin sensitization...
Gojo Orange is also good for cleaning up green/wet epoxy.
What, pray tell, is PU?
Why do we have to use acronyms? It makes reading posts so difficult sometimes. And who wants to have to search anywhere to figure out what somebody said?
I know as soon as somebody says what PU means I’ll say, “Aha, I should have guessed that."
But right now what is PU, please? Have mercy.
PU: polyurethane glue...best known is Gorilla Glue.
Thank you.
So let's keep this in perspective folks, the "creep" that a glue like titebond 1 exhibits has almost no detrimental effect on most of the woodworking that most folks here do. It says not to use it for structural applications, but that refers to something like laminating roof beams for a hockey arena, not the structure of an entertainment center. Yes, it does creep a little between wood with different grain orientation, but that is probably more helpful than not given the other option is joint failure or cracked wood. When you add in the low toxicity, low cost, and ease of use, it makes sense that it is as popular as it is (and that is from someone who had a hide-glue-snob phase).
Stringed instrument makers encounter forces much higher than most case good woodworkers, and though there is raging debate amongst makers about glue, most instrument makers when cornered, will say that the instruments they made in their early days with titebond have held up just fine.
I agree with Andrew.
Bumbling forward into the unknown.
Random thought about this
Does thickness of a table or more importantly a workbench come into the equation.
I was thinking of laminating my bench with hide but chose regular Titebond in the end.
Wondering if you folks think a workbench is less likely to creep at 4" thick?
Not that I'd be getting it wet or in the sun, but for interests sake.
Tom
I use West System for bent laminations, and yes it can be messy. One thing I do to make my life easier is use the protective film you would use on a construction site for floors, self adhering, on the top of the bench. strait laminations with no stress, Titebond II.
I also use that same plastic film to line the curved cauls.
Last edited by Larry Edgerton; 09-12-2019 at 6:45 AM.
Unfortunately there is an acronym in the subject line... sorry ;-) They are everywhere and its simply faster and easier than typing out urea formaldehyde to type UF in an adhesive thread. Or some may just reference it as Unibond? Same with PVA and Polyvinyl Acetate, or CA and CyanoAcrylate. Or are we suppose to type PU-Polyurethane-(glue not the finish)-Gorilla Glue every time we reference PU?
Its life. Searching is good. You find lots of other information along the way.
It'll be ok ;-)
I've made quite a few laminated parts for projects, including rockers for several rocking chairs, using Titebond glue and none of them show any "creep".
During one of my visits to Sam Maloof, I asked Sam what he used for the laminations for his rockers (the actual "skates" or rockers). He pointed to a shelf with several bottles of Titebond glue, from Titebond I to Titebond III and said, "I choose which one to use by the color of the wood."
Mike
Go into the world and do well. But more importantly, go into the world and do good.