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Thread: Martin T-17 rebuild

  1. #46
    Pretty sure that saw was a regular old t17 cabinet saw variety, especially with that fence that is on it.

  2. #47
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Williamstown,ma
    Posts
    996
    What does that mean Darcy? “Regular old cabinet saw variety”- no sliding table? I don’t know why that fence equates to that?
    My T75’s all have that type of fence, they all have sliders. Of course its hard to be exact, that pic is small.

  3. #48
    Quote Originally Posted by peter gagliardi View Post
    What does that mean Darcy? “Regular old cabinet saw variety”- no sliding table? I don’t know why that fence equates to that?
    My T75’s all have that type of fence, they all have sliders. Of course its hard to be exact, that pic is small.
    Almost all the Martin literature I have accumulated always showed that plain rip style fence on the non slider version of the 17

  4. #49
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Location
    Western PA
    Posts
    1,242
    Ill be darned, but Darcy is correct, the T-17 apparently came in a non-slider model. There is an example of a slider-less 17 on a popular auction site right now. Alongside some other Martin goodies.

    I am very curious why they made it without a sliding table?

  5. #50
    Quote Originally Posted by Patrick Kane View Post
    Ill be darned, but Darcy is correct, the T-17 apparently came in a non-slider model. There is an example of a slider-less 17 on a popular auction site right now. Alongside some other Martin goodies.

    I am very curious why they made it without a sliding table?
    Because some people didn't need or want it.
    Some didn't need or want 98" slider, or the short stroke.
    Options.

  6. #51
    Last edited by Darcy Warner; 01-09-2020 at 7:58 PM.

  7. #52
    Attachment 423312


    Remembered why I don't post many pictures.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Bruce Page; 01-09-2020 at 8:29 PM.

  8. #53
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Location
    Western PA
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    1,242
    The machine looks great. You guys put an enormous amount of effort into small details. The rods on that clamp look better than anything in my shop.

  9. #54
    Quote Originally Posted by Patrick Kane View Post
    The machine looks great. You guys put an enormous amount of effort into small details. The rods on that clamp look better than anything in my shop.
    Well, it's for a customer and he is paying for an expecting good or better than new. I ordered 30mm ground and polished shaft, my guy doing my machine work took the liberty to put a small radius/dome on the ends because it looked nice and keeps you from having a sharp edge.

  10. #55
    Today I had to figure out a way to make the actual clamp part of the clamp work correctly. The original plunger looks to have spent a lot of time at the beach (saw came from Miami) and the swivel bearing was locked up and the pad missing. I decided on using a swivel pad from a machine leveler and will have shaft remade with M16 threads on the end to accept new hold down pad. Fairly cheap, fairly easy and will look factory.

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  11. #56
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Central WI
    Posts
    5,666
    The guy buying the saw should pop for Mac's clamps. A million times better than manual. www.airtightclamps.com Dave

  12. #57
    Quote Originally Posted by David Kumm View Post
    The guy buying the saw should pop for Mac's clamps. A million times better than manual. www.airtightclamps.com Dave
    I am not a fan of pneumatic clamps on most machines, one I hate having to deal with an air hose/line, two I just like nice manual cam action clamps. As close to original as possible are my guidelines.

    Also, all the components of those are from Kipp, except the clamp.

  13. #58
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Ouray Colorado
    Posts
    1,392
    I have a collection of old Martin, new Martin and Hofmann cam clamps. The best clamps of this type I have used but no comparison to the ease, speed and consistent clamping of pneumatic. Mac does a great job of engineering the hoses, controls and connections.

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  14. #59
    Darcy, what is the cost of the kipp aluminum cross clamp? I used rose + krieger cross clamps for my air clamp builds and they were $32.50 each

    Mark

    Quote Originally Posted by Darcy Warner View Post
    I am not a fan of pneumatic clamps on most machines, one I hate having to deal with an air hose/line, two I just like nice manual cam action clamps. As close to original as possible are my guidelines.

    Also, all the components of those are from Kipp, except the clamp.

  15. #60
    Quote Originally Posted by Mark e Kessler View Post
    Darcy, what is the cost of the kipp aluminum cross clamp? I used rose + krieger cross clamps for my air clamp builds and they were $32.50 each

    Mark
    Like 29 or 30 bucks. The kicker was 15 bucks for shipping from Germany, they don't stock those tube clamp components here. US headquarters is in MI.

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