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Thread: 14 vs 17 inch bandsaw? Cast-iron vs aluminum Trunnions?

  1. #16
    Just get a plug for a 240v and take the 30 seconds to switch the plug out. I have had 4 bandsaws. A 14" is a great start, as you can run a narrow blade for tight curves. I think resawing is a bit overrated. I rarely do it in over 20 years of woodworking. My former Agazzani & my current 21"/5hp Grizzly both have brakes & that is a very important feature, as otherwise it takes a while for a blade to spin down. Definitely cast iron & preferably a bigger motor. I have had 2 Jet 14" bandsaws, one of which is currently in my shop.

    If I had to pick one, I'd get an 18" Laguna or a 17" Grizzly. I've been to Grizzly a few times, as it's close (my wife is from B'ham), but you can swing by Woodcraft downtown to have a look at the Laguna.

  2. #17
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    Footbrake: I saw some posts about the brake being a safety feature. While it is a safety feature, safety is essential. A bandsaw that is almost wound down is pretty quite and even a few inches of that blade moving can mean a nasty cut.

    Brand: I am also a big fan of Laguna, but that is my choice and have 3 Laguna machines. Their bandsaws are top notch and while they are not on sale now, it might be worth the extra over Grizzly. I never owned a Grizzly product but almost pulled the trigger many times on a Grizzly tool, but hesitate right as I am about to hit 'purchase' on my cart. Something about the reviews on some of their products keeps a tarnished view in my mind. I am sure many of their products are top notch also. After Laguna, Rikon seems to have a very big following and while I don't own one, it was my 2nd pick after Laguna. But it was a 3hp model that had a foot brake. I don't remember the model # off hand. FYI - Laguna has an outlet, and they don't list all the machines on their web site. You have to contact them. The outlet is usually machines that were in a trade show or other and work perfect, full warranty etc and cost 20% less than current retail price. The e-mail address is on their web site. Usually Morgan@Laguna will respond pretty fast.

    Power/Electric: I also agree with Jim on using the same 220v circuit for both tools. I have two 220v circuits, on is dedicated to the dust collector. The second I use for both my bandsaw and my table saw. Technically you can have two outlets on a 220v circuit as long as you don't over-draw the capacity of the circuit. I only have 1 outlet and just plug in the tool I am using at the time. Also check the owner's manuals. You can extend the cords on the motor, either hard-wire with a longer cord or the proper size extension cord. I have a 220v extension to get to my table saw. To be safe, go up a gauge on an extension cord (Use 12 guage if the requirement is 14 guage)

    Cast Iron vs Aluminum: You say your wife won't let you upgrade so don't get Aluminum. It's used for lower price point saws for a reason.

    Good luck with your new toy and enjoy it.
    Distraction could lead to dismemberment!

  3. #18
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    I loved my G0513x2. It just became too small when I wanted more resaw height.

  4. #19
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    I found a MM16 2003 model (3.6hp) for $1400 a few hours away. Maybe that's a good choice? A little worried about the mobility bit looks nice otherwise.

  5. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kory Watson View Post
    I found a MM16 2003 model (3.6hp) for $1400 a few hours away. Maybe that's a good choice? A little worried about the mobility bit looks nice otherwise.
    I own one from 2004 and have enjoyed it. The only real issues they have been on that saw that I can recall clearly are some switch failures, but the unit has 12" of resaw generous power (and can run on a 20 amp 240v circuit unlike the current version which requires 30 amp) and is a beast. The native mobility is "less convenient" than is desired in some situations, but if that's super important, one can opt to use an aftermarket mobile base for the machine.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  6. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kory Watson View Post
    Thanks all for the advice. Folks seem to be pushing for the 17'' 240V. I was indeed planning to head to Bellingham to pick a Grizzly up, since they're all available there

    My second Q, is if I could get help differentiating between these Grizzly options. Are the foot brake and cast iron trunnions each worth $300? Which would you choose?
    I have two G0513X bandsaws. One has the steel trunnions and one has the cast iron. Both use the same hardened steel teeth for the tilt function. I have never noticed any difference between them. Oddly the steel trunnion machine is my resaw machine that does the heavier work. No difference as far as actual user experience. I believe the CI trunnion was a response to the early reviews as that was one of the only things reviewers could find to complain about. Suspect this feature to be more marketing value than actual value. I have enjoyed the steel trunnion machine for over 15 years.

    GnG Low CoD (15).jpg

    The CI trunnion machine (a G0513X2) is a more recent addition.

    G0513-DC-Upgrade (8).jpg
    "A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".


    – Samuel Butler

  7. #22
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    HappyThanksgiving!
    I just bought a Griz 17" BS during their last sale. I have a Griz 21"er dedicated to resaw and wanted a smaller saw for multiple blade sizes without having to reset the resaw blade. I have an Inca 10"er that is a great machine--and is available for sale!!- but is too small for turning blanks etc. I haven't used the new saw much yet but so far it is a good value. I live in Edmonds and you are more than welcome to come up and give it a test drive if you wish. I picked mine up in Bellingham and hauled it home in my utility trailer but didn't get the chance to try it out. I have had great success with the 21" saw so that was good enough for me. Let me know if interested--may even have some pecan and pumpkin pie left over if you hurry. Best wishes, John

  8. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Myk Rian View Post
    Cast iron has less flex. I never had a need for a foot brake.
    A 14" will get you to 12" with a 6" spacer block.
    If you can go with a 17", go for it. The footprint is not much more than a 14" saw.

    You need to read up: https://material-properties.org/carb...pros-and-cons/

    To make it easier:

    Young’s Modulus of Elasticity

    Young’s modulus of elasticity of low-carbon steel is 200 GPa.

    Young’s modulus of elasticity of gray cast iron (ASTM A48 Class 40) is 124 GPa.

    Young’s modulus of elasticity of martensitic white cast iron (ASTM A532 Class 1 Type A) is 175 GPa.
    Young’s modulus of elasticity of malleable cast iron – ASTM A220 is 172 GPa.
    Young’s modulus of elasticity ductile cast Iron – ASTM A536 – 60-40-18 is 170 GPa.

    So steel is 14 - 61% stiffer than cast iron, depending upon which one is used. Combine that with the larger cross sections used in steel frame bandsaws and the advantage is obvious.

    John

  9. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by John TenEyck View Post
    You need to read up: https://material-properties.org/carb...pros-and-cons/

    To make it easier:

    Young’s Modulus of Elasticity

    Young’s modulus of elasticity of low-carbon steel is 200 GPa.

    Young’s modulus of elasticity of gray cast iron (ASTM A48 Class 40) is 124 GPa.

    Young’s modulus of elasticity of martensitic white cast iron (ASTM A532 Class 1 Type A) is 175 GPa.
    Young’s modulus of elasticity of malleable cast iron – ASTM A220 is 172 GPa.
    Young’s modulus of elasticity ductile cast Iron – ASTM A536 – 60-40-18 is 170 GPa.

    So steel is 14 - 61% stiffer than cast iron, depending upon which one is used. Combine that with the larger cross sections used in steel frame bandsaws and the advantage is obvious.

    John
    The compare was cast iron to aluminum, not cast iron to steel.
    Distraction could lead to dismemberment!

  10. #25
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    I've seen very few bad reviews on the Grizzly 17" saws and some of those had to do with shipping damage which would not be an issue. That MM16 would surely be tempting though, that seemed to be the standard in midsize band saws a few years ago. I have a Rikon 10-325 and it will resaw up to 12" - I resawed about 9" because that's how wide the widest board I've tried - but I better not be in a hurry.

  11. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Becker View Post
    I own one from 2004 and have enjoyed it. The only real issues they have been on that saw that I can recall clearly are some switch failures, but the unit has 12" of resaw generous power (and can run on a 20 amp 240v circuit unlike the current version which requires 30 amp) and is a beast. The native mobility is "less convenient" than is desired in some situations, but if that's super important, one can opt to use an aftermarket mobile base for the machine.
    The one I had was the 4.8hp 30amp version and honestly I thought it was a pain. Had to deal with a power cord the size of a paper towel roll and install a dedicated 30amp circuit. That is a lot for a small garage type shop. However, the positive side was that it would tension a huge blade for the smaller size of the saw and it didn’t stop no matter what you threw at it. If you can get the 3.6hp MM16 for $1400 that would be hard to pass up if its in good shape and includes the fence and what not. Hard to go wrong with a Minimax.

    For price and condition comparison, here is one that sold in 2018 for $1700 with the 3.6hp motor. $1,400 is a great deal if its clean. https://forums.woodnet.net/showthread.php?tid=7344853
    Last edited by Greg Parrish; 11-25-2022 at 5:10 PM.

  12. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kory Watson View Post
    I found a MM16 2003 model (3.6hp) for $1400 a few hours away...
    This is WAY better than your first choices.
    "Anything seems possible when you don't know what you're doing."

  13. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Greg Parrish View Post
    The one I had was the 4.8hp 30amp version and honestly I thought it was a pain. Had to deal with a power cord the size of a paper towel roll and install a dedicated 30amp circuit.
    My machine circuit in the shop is "standard" on 30 amp and 30 amp twist locks. They are pretty much the same size as 20 amp twist locks. My only 240v machine that doesn't have a twist lock currently is the compressor and I may change that in the new shop because I have the hardware lying about to do so.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  14. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Becker View Post
    My machine circuit in the shop is "standard" on 30 amp and 30 amp twist locks. They are pretty much the same size as 20 amp twist locks. My only 240v machine that doesn't have a twist lock currently is the compressor and I may change that in the new shop because I have the hardware lying about to do so.
    Makes perfect sense in your case Jim, since you are designing a new shop around your tools. 30 amps gives your ability to have larger motors/equipment. But in the average small hobby garage shop, the larger 30 amp circuits and associated cords can be more challenging than 20 amp circuits. Regardless, I’m happy to have 20amp 3hp and under equipment and circuits for everything now.

  15. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Justin Rapp View Post
    The compare was cast iron to aluminum, not cast iron to steel.
    Oh, my bad. Then it's even worse:

    Young’s Modulus for steel (29 million PSI) is three times that of aluminum (10 million PSI). This means that for a fixed geometry, a part made out of steel will be three times as stiff as if it were made out of aluminum. In other words, an aluminum part under load will deflect three times as much as a similarly loaded steel part.

    John

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