track saw vs circular saw with guide

[keith micinski]

I use my makita to cut doors down as apparently pre 1990 doors were just made willy nilly and no two ever the same. I was anti track saw as hard as you can get for guy that says I got rid of my table saw and couldn't be happier. Still can't wrap my mind around someone saying that out loud and really believing it. That having been said there is nothing better then grabbing the saw and track, plopping it down, and ripping a half inch off of a door. You could do this any of a number of dumbed down ways but at the end of the day using quality tools, to do quality work, with as little frustration as possible is absolutely priceless to me.

[Curt Harms]

I think that the type of saw used on a 'sawboard' matters. I use a P-C 314 and it stays against the fence very well. The P-C 314 is a small worm drive saw whose base is longer than it is wide. The handle is pretty close to in line with the blade so there is no tendency for the saw to twist as I push it and move away from the guide's fence. It requires little or no effort to keep the saw tight against the fence and with a good blade produces a very nice cut. No dust collection though.

[Frederick Skelly]

The equation was a little different for me. I had an old Craftsman circ saw that was needing replacement anyway and I wanted a good quality circ saw and blade. Plus, the old saw never worked well enough for me on a homemade guide. The Dewalt Track Saw I bought cuts like a knife through butter. Cuts are clean. The track doesnt move during cuts. The saw slides down the track effortlessly. For me it was a good decision to buy one.

But if your existing system is doing everything you want it to, I'd save the $500. As you already noted, you can add the rubber strips to the bottom of your existing homemade guide.

Enjoy your vacation shop!
Fred

[Carl Crout]

Thoughts on this system? https://www.truetracsaw.com/products...hoC-90QAvD_BwE

[Charles Lent]

I have two straight edge wide Pro Grip aluminum clamping guides from Peach Tree Woodworking catalog # 582 and 596 on this link https://www.ptreeusa.com/clamp_progrip.html . I've had these wide guides for about 23 years. and before the DeWalt saw noted below I used them with a 7 1/2" Commercial Black and Decker circular saw that I have owned for about 43 years.

I have recently been using my 18 volt Dewalt W/lithium battery circular saw similar to this 20 volt version which is now available.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-2...91P1/205407037

For each saw I made a kind-of sole plate from 1/2" Lexan that rides on top of, and is guided by, the Pro Grip guide clamps. These sole plates have a zero clearance blade area where the blade teeth rise up through it, so I can make chip free cuts. This area of the sole plate is thicker, so the bottom of it touches the surface of the wood being cut and it's thickness matches the thickness of the clamping guide. I have also made a spacer that equals the width between the clamping guide and the blade that I use to position the guide the correct distance from the cut line, also made from Lexan.

About the only things that I don't have with my system is the foam backing on the clamp guides, which I probably could add, and the easy ability to do plunge cuts. I've been using my system since before track saws came into existence. I like the ability of track saws to collect the saw dust, but since my shop is very small, I break up all of my sheet stock outside the shop on a cutting table, so being outside I have no real need to capture the saw dust. My cutting table is just a 1 X 4 pine frame about 20 X 70" in size with 2 X 4 cross pieces, one across the middle and two near each end, laid flat and flush with the top surface of the frame. These end 2 pieces of 2 X 4 are positioned to allow attachment of a set of metal banquet table legs which are attached to the bottom of these 2 X 4 pieces using short screws. When folded, these legs fold up into the recess of the 1 X 4 table frame. The entire frame has no metal in it except for these screws. It is all assembled using biscuits and Titebond II glue, so shallow blade cuts into the top surface of the table will never hit metal.

Using this cutting table has several advantages. The biggest advantage is that I don't work at ground level, since I can no longer do this. Using the cutting table instead of saw horses, and making all cuts with the work roughly positioned so that the cut line is down the middle of the table, keeps both pieces from falling as the cut is being completed. They both lay on the table until I remove the off cut and re-position the remainder for the next cut. This results in no broken edges, like frequently happens at the end of a cut when using saw horses. When finished, I fold the legs of this table and slide it into my sheet stock storage area, where it leans against the sheet stock until I need to use it again, taking up less than 4" of floor space. I still have a couple of saw horses, but mostly used now for holding a work table or scaffold board. I keep looking at track saws, but I can't see that having one would be of any significant benefit over what I already have.

Attached are a few photos of the cutting table and guides. I don't have a good photo of the Lexan base at this time.

Charley

[Allan Speers]

For me, the main difference, unless you get the Fe$tool, is cut depth.

If your main goal is to cut sheet goods down to size, then I suppose a simple guide is fine. Personally, I'd still use a track saw, because it's faster & more accurate. FWIW, most track systems offer a "Tee" guide, which lets you cut 90 degrees very quickly. That alone is worth the price of admission, IMO.

Now, if you need to cut 1" or more, then there's no thought required. A good track system is a must.

Also, with some systems (I use and love the Eurekazone, despite several frustrating aspects of the full system) you can also attach other tools, like a router. Doing "outside" routing with a track is incredible. I would NEVER go back to a table or a simple guide for this task. Also, because the router is held to the work, you can cut in the "wrong" direction, which gives a better finished surface.
And of course, the safety factor is also nice.

I use a Makita 5104 with my system. It has tons of torque, and cuts just about anything as long as I go slowly.
DOC is fantastic.

I do wish I had a riving knife, though. The EZ has a "sort of" knife, but you have to remove it when making miter cuts. Someday I may get the big Festool CS, and mount it to a Eurekazone base. However, that would lessen my DOC a bit, so I dunno.... (plus the cost!)

[Jim Dwight]

I used a circular saw with a shoot board for several decades before getting a track saw. I did not try every brand of circular saw or saw blade but I tried a few and never got table saw quality cuts like I routinely get with my track saw (a DeWalt). If you just want to cut things down to approximate size and make the finish cuts on your table saw, the circular saw will work fine. If you can get table saw quality cuts with your circular saw and chosen blade, please mention what they are but great. I could not.

I do not have space in my shop to make wide cuts in large pieces on my table saw. I must make finish cuts with my track saw but it is fully up to the task.

I didn't notice anybody mentioning plunge cuts but it has been handy occasionally. But the main reason I think there is essentially no comparison is the ability to make finish cuts - cuts good enough to glue up. I never got those with the circular saw but get them nearly every time with the track saw. A track saw can be used for breakdown but it is really a final cut quality tool. In my experience, a circular saw only makes final cuts for carpentry tasks - which is what it is made for.

[Stephen Rosenthal]

“ If you can get table saw quality cuts with your circular saw and chosen blade, please mention what they are but great. I could not.”

Jim,
I noted earlier that I installed Forrest WW II blades on both my PC-314 trim saw and Skilsaw from which I get furniture finish quality cuts without needing a shooting board. I understand people’s preference for track saws, but considering my experience with what I’ve been using for decades I don’t see the need to invest in one. And btw, I don’t have a table saw either, but do have 3 Dewalt RASs, each one perfectly tuned and individually dedicated to crosscutting, dadoing and ripping.

[Carl Crout]

I have two straight edge wide Pro Grip aluminum clamping guides from Peach Tree Woodworking catalog # 582 and 596 on this link https://www.ptreeusa.com/clamp_progrip.html . I've had these wide guides for about 23 years. and before the DeWalt saw noted below I used them with a 7 1/2" Commercial Black and Decker circular saw that I have owned for about 43 years.

I have recently been using my 18 volt Dewalt W/lithium battery circular saw similar to this 20 volt version which is now available.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-2...91P1/205407037

For each saw I made a kind-of sole plate from 1/2" Lexan that rides on top of, and is guided by, the Pro Grip guide clamps. These sole plates have a zero clearance blade area where the blade teeth rise up through it, so I can make chip free cuts. This area of the sole plate is thicker, so the bottom of it touches the surface of the wood being cut and it's thickness matches the thickness of the clamping guide. I have also made a spacer that equals the width between the clamping guide and the blade that I use to position the guide the correct distance from the cut line, also made from Lexan.

About the only things that I don't have with my system is the foam backing on the clamp guides, which I probably could add, and the easy ability to do plunge cuts. I've been using my system since before track saws came into existence. I like the ability of track saws to collect the saw dust, but since my shop is very small, I break up all of my sheet stock outside the shop on a cutting table, so being outside I have no real need to capture the saw dust. My cutting table is just a 1 X 4 pine frame about 20 X 70" in size with 2 X 4 cross pieces, one across the middle and two near each end, laid flat and flush with the top surface of the frame. These end 2 pieces of 2 X 4 are positioned to allow attachment of a set of metal banquet table legs which are attached to the bottom of these 2 X 4 pieces using short screws. When folded, these legs fold up into the recess of the 1 X 4 table frame. The entire frame has no metal in it except for these screws. It is all assembled using biscuits and Titebond II glue, so shallow blade cuts into the top surface of the table will never hit metal.

Using this cutting table has several advantages. The biggest advantage is that I don't work at ground level, since I can no longer do this. Using the cutting table instead of saw horses, and making all cuts with the work roughly positioned so that the cut line is down the middle of the table, keeps both pieces from falling as the cut is being completed. They both lay on the table until I remove the off cut and re-position the remainder for the next cut. This results in no broken edges, like frequently happens at the end of a cut when using saw horses. When finished, I fold the legs of this table and slide it into my sheet stock storage area, where it leans against the sheet stock until I need to use it again, taking up less than 4" of floor space. I still have a couple of saw horses, but mostly used now for holding a work table or scaffold board. I keep looking at track saws, but I can't see that having one would be of any significant benefit over what I already have.

Attached are a few photos of the cutting table and guides. I don't have a good photo of the Lexan base at this time.

Charley

How does your saw ride on top of the guide? Looks like the guide isn't very wide. Or do you use two of them together?

[Ted Reischl]

I have no need of a track saw. I can understand that they are handy for guys who toss them in their trucks.

What I cannot understand is how the people who make these things have the idea that about 20 bucks worth of aluminum extrusion, some bolts and a plate to mount the saw on should cost $500. It is no doubt a very profitable item.

Should not be long before we see the prices fall through the floor as foreign competition figures out there is a huge opportunity.

[Jim Becker]

Ted, I have a slider in my shop, but still find quite a few things that the track saw can handle easier and more expeditiously...bringing the saw to the work rather than the opposite. Do I use it a lot? Nope. But when I do, it delivers. I have used it in the house, too, which is kinda more like your "toss in the truck" example, however. Different folks have different needs, preferences and work flow. Track saws are not for everyone, for sure, but they do what they do very well.

[Charles Lent]

How does your saw ride on top of the guide? Looks like the guide isn't very wide. Or do you use two of them together?

Carl,

My aluminum guides are about 6" wide, not the common narrow ones (look at the picture and compare them to the 2 X 4 cross pieces in the table). My saws are attached to 1/2" Lexan that is grooved to fit the channels of the top side of my guides. The blade side of my circular saws that I use with these guides hangs over the side of the guide, but very little of the saw body extends beyond the guide on the non blade side of the saw.

Charley

[Rich Aldrich]

The reason I went with a track saw is the track saws and tracks have the anti chip edge that protects plywood from chipping. My track saw supplier went out of business so I will be looking to replace it when my anti chip edges are gone. One needs to buy name brand. If buying it once is expensive, buying it twice really sucks.

[Ole Anderson]

The cost of a tracksaw is nothing to sneeze at when it comes to opportunity costs. I could snag a nice bandsaw for that price. If I was setting up a shop, I would focus on shop equipment that lent itself to the type of work I do.

A lot of track saws out there now that are way less than Festool, Makita or Dewalt. They work fine and still have the advantages of a track saw over a shop made guide. I have had the Grizzly for at least six years. Use it for cutting off doors, cutting windows into doors and a zillion other uses. Key is the ability to lay the edge on the pencil line, the nearly chip free cut and the fact that the saw can't move off the edge of the guide.

[andy bessette]

Many years ago I paid $350 for my used Festool TS 55 with track and Systainer.