Congrats on your order, Jesse! There are a whole bunch of us here who use Euro sliders, so once yours arrives, be sure to check both previous threads and start your own with any questions, etc.
Congrats on your order, Jesse! There are a whole bunch of us here who use Euro sliders, so once yours arrives, be sure to check both previous threads and start your own with any questions, etc.
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The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...
thats a good video for someone like me and many making a living at this using cabinet saws to understand how its approached with the slider and jigs, seeing the rip fence there as his set for a stop and parallel up is good and I wondered about that. It falls apart on longer material though t some length. Im fine in how ive always done it either through with a push stick or cut in one end flip and lift off.
Chris, the format is awful. I have it set to send me emails for all posts (like 2-10 a day) and I have them auto moved to a folder in email. I do all reading and posting via email. The forum is horrible but the content from the small group of members is awesome...joe
In 1970, at age 30, with a limited budget, I bought a 10" Craftsman table saw. I was never happy with the fence guided rip cuts it gave me. Adjusting the blade to cut bevels involved lifting the motor with one hand while turning the tilt wheel with the other. Also, the bearing point for this mechanism was set in a thin sheet metal side of the saw case. That always contributed to vibration of the arbor. Even after I reinforced it with 1/4" steel plate it was not as stable as I would have liked. Today I seldom use it for anything.
A cabinetmaker friend taught me about jig built sleds with cleats for cutting mitered cuts on short pieces. I forget who showed me the solution I now use my Bosch worm-drive circular saw for all my rip cuts. Today I use a chop saw for cross cuts.
I made my go-to setup for straight rip cuts to fit a 36" x 48" x 1" plywood table on heavy saw horses in the driveway in front of the 'garage' shop (storage place.) I started with a 15" x 36" x 0.5 " sheet of plywood and a 2.5" x 36" x 0.5" strip of plywood, drilled at intervals to accept 7/8" flat head wood screws. I set the strip inboard of the edge of the sheet at slightly more than the blade to shoe edge on the circular saw and screwed it down. Then I ripped the edge using the screwed down strip as a guide. I clamped the resulting jig on top of the work-piece so that the jig edge aligned with where I wanted to cut. It cut a straight line, right where I'd marked it. I've used the same principle to rip 4' x 8' x ~1/4" birch faced plywood sheets. I use a 60 tooth Freud Diablo plywood blade and put the good face down. I've even used the jig to cleanly cut thin translucent plastic diffuser panels for light fixtures. In every case it is important to set the depth of cut so that the blade does not penetrate the work-piece excessively. With plywood 0.5 " works; with the plastic less is better and results in clean cuts with no chipped edges.
Eventually I find that the fence needs to be reset. How frequently depends on the care I take in cutting and on how critical the cut accuracy needs to be. Clearly it is a simple task to establish a new edge.
I've tried this approach with beveled cuts. It is hard to keep an even pressure on the saw both down and against the fence while making the cut. Any slight change results in a curve or jog in the cut. Also, the cut edge on the jig is no longer as easy to align as a guide for setting up the jig. You also need a separate jig for every angle. I use my home rigged router table and an angled bit when I must have a bevel. Again, this jig is remarkably accurate if the jig edge and depth are carefully set and the marks are where you really want to cut.
In response to Jesse on 'formatting' in the forum, I try to remember that it is wisest to compose a post in Word , then copy and paste it into the forum. Even with the AutoSave feature it is way too easy to discover that you've been logged out while tweaking your text and that you may not be able to get back to it once you are again logged in.
John
Last edited by John Baum; 09-04-2018 at 5:41 PM.
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The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...
Can anyone provide a link to those forums ? I noticed a reference to it in a recent thread as well as a request for a link (perhaps this one) but couldn't find it via google (forgive me if a link is in this thread as i did look through the thread for that link and dind't see it, but there is a chance I missed it). I'd love to be able to check it out even if it has bad formatting. Thanks.
PS I was pretty torn making this very choice this summer and still don't know if i made the right choice. I saw quite a few pros and cons each way, but having made a choice I should probably avoid threads like this! (If money, space, and reality were no object I'd opt for a slider with a super long throw allowing me to edge joint even long boards on the tablesaw and crosscut super accurately, but with sawstop type technology for when my kids want to use the saw for one added layer of protection - fully recognizing that that technology alone doesn't make a saw safe - sadly such a saw doesn't exist, space is indeed tight for me in the shop, and like virtually everyone out there, cost does have an impact on my choices).
It is a Yahoo email group and not a forum, I find it hard to get along with but try it and see for yourself, you may like it. There was an attempt to start a forum some years ago but it failed for some reason.
Chris
Everything I like is either illegal, immoral or fattening
Thanks, that explains why I couldn't find it via search. I'll try to check it out (although I've never joined a Yahoo email group before).
Hi, try this link.
felder-woodworking-owner@yahoogroups.com
You'll have to be approved for membership, which isn't an issue, it's very easy............Rod.
I've looked at the site a few times over the course of a year. There appears to be hardly any posting done ... perhaps one or two posts in several months, if at all.
Regards from Perth
Derek
Derek, if you are talking about the Felder group on Yahoo, I think you are looking at the wrong one. I seem to remember there may have been a legacy Feeder group that isn't used any more (or maybe I don't remember correctly). Anyway, there are maybe 50-70 posts per week on the active Feeder group. The Minimax group on Yahoo, in contrast, rarely seems to have any posts.
Mark McFarlane
Mark, do you have an address?
The one I have is this: https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/FelderUsers/info
This is the message history for the past 16 years ...
Message History
Regards from Perth
Derek
The saw showed up yesterday, in case someone is curious how long something like that takes--about five months.
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