I started and couldn't stop

[Jason Buresh]

A gentleman on Craigslist was selling a Stanley sweetheart mitre box, no 358, for $15. It was a 2 hour drive round trip to get it, and on my way back up I stopped at a few antique stores and I went all out. They had outdoor flea markets and stuff on sale everyplace I stopped. I was finding one good deal after the other. I bought a Stanley #80 scraper, a pair of double spokeshaves, 2 hammers, 3 wooden planes, 2 levels, and 2 braces. All in all spent around $60, including the mitre box. It was a good day so far.

[lowell holmes]

I'd say you had a good morning and that you have some de-rusting and wd-40 time ahead.

[Jason Buresh]

Lots of de-rusting and even more wd-40

[Jim Koepke]

Ahh, the thrill of the hunt, the agonies of de-rust.

Looking forward to seeing how it all comes out.

jtk

[lowell holmes]

I bet you have a bench grinder and a wire wheel for it. If not, it's time to visit Home Depot, Lowes, or the store of your choice.

[Jim Koepke]

I bet you have a bench grinder and a wire wheel for it. If not, it's time to visit Home Depot, Lowes, or the store of your choice.

For me a drill press with a wire brush can be more useful than a bench grinder. Though if you want something for a powered metal removal, a bench grinder can be handy.

jtk

[lowell holmes]

Actually, I have both and I bet Jim does too.

[Jim Koepke]

Actually, I have both and I bet Jim does too.

My only 'bench grinder' is a hand crank device:

Brest Drill & Hand Grinder.jpg

It is inconvenient to use.

For powered abrasion needs a Veritas Mk.ll Power Sharpening System does fine.

Recently another grind wheel was put into use:

Ultra-Slow Speed Grind Wheel.jpg

It too is less convenient than a motor driven bench grinder.

jtk

[Jason Buresh]

I also have had good luck with the wire wheel in the drill press. I like having the variable speed.

[Marinus Loewensteijn]

Non toxic rust removal: 1 part molasses (the one with sulphur in it) to 8 ~ 20 parts of water. Put in there, turn it around every two days and then after a week (or two) the rust will have dissolved without attacking the iron. It leaves the iron cleaner than any mechanical removal, just like it came out of the factory. Do not use the molasses that has the sulphur removed.

[Jason Buresh]

I picked up some evapo-rust to try

[Mike Manning]

Non toxic rust removal: 1 part molasses (the one with sulphur in it) to 8 ~ 20 parts of water. Put in there, turn it around every two days and then after a week (or two) the rust will have dissolved without attacking the iron. It leaves the iron cleaner than any mechanical removal, just like it came out of the factory. Do not use the molasses that has the sulphur removed.

How is this method with regards to paint?

[Marinus Loewensteijn]

Since I could not find locally evapo-rust I tried this and it worked fine, it did not take the paint off. Tried in the past vinegar and it took the paint off. It does not seem to attack the iron itself and aluminum does not get attacked either. It's slow however and depending on the amount of rust it can take one or two weeks. I recently did a plane that had some loose surface rust and after three days the rust had come away. There are some good youtube video's comparing it with other methods.

[Rob Luter]

That #80 looks like an old timer. They are great users when you get them tuned up.

[steven c newman]

#80 with a rounded front..aka #80 M....for Malleable iron....
Jason: awhile back, I posted a couple "How-tos" on rehabbing a Stanley Mitre Box....have done both the #358, and the #346.....might want to take a look through?