From his description I thought the battery went straight to the motor with no switching or coil. Full amps through the little jump box switch?
My Gravely tractor uses what looks like a old foot operated dimmer switch for the start switch. Push it in with your foot to start. let go and motor stops.
Bill D
Then you just need a switch like this in line. https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/Ferguson-TO20_Starter-Switch-Manual_181679M1.html
My advice before was if the starter had a solenoid. This is as simple as it gets. You might be able to pick one up at Farm and Fleet or TSC also. It will handle the amperage involved. No Ford solenoid needed. Mount it and run a short cable to the starter and a cable connected to your battery or jump pack. Maybe both this morning. lol
Jump starter question part two: I have a wood splitter with a Briggs and Stratton engine on it that has a starter added. There is no solenoid, no switch, just the starter with one pole. When I hook up this jump starter (https://www.farmandfleet.com/product...ompressor.html) with the positive (red) on the starter pole and the negative (black) to the frame of the splitter and turn the switch on the starter engages and turns the engine over. Sadly it doesn't have enough power to actually start the motor, esp. now in below zero weather. When I hook up this starter pack: (https://www.farmandfleet.com/product...p-starter.html) exactly the same way and turn it on nothing happens. Why is that?
When Gravely first offered the option of an electric starter they had another option that was a wood battery box. It took 120 D-cell batteries.
Not sure on the date but the first Gravely was designed to rototill victory gardens to help out doughboys in WW1.
Bill D
If memory serves me correct, the LI battery jumpers have to operate in tandem with an existing battery. This means you would have to have both jumper box, and LI jumper connected at the same time. Personally, I would buy the cheapest regular lead acid battery, keep it on a Battery Tender or Battery Minder in the garage. Mount it on a hand cart for ease of transportation. In our market, Walmart sells a "One Year Battery" for around $60 + core charge. You might ask around your friends, as most likely someone has an old battery in their shop, which might take a charge, or could be used for return core.
Last edited by Bruce Wrenn; 01-16-2022 at 8:30 PM.
Those jump starters just have a little battery inside like used for a barbie car. Very limited amps. A motorcycle battery is bigger. They need a real battery to supply the amps. the barbie battery just ups the voltage enough to get the starter solenoid to pull in. you need a real battery. Buy one with a handle for easy carrying. Or get a battery box for a boat with a handle.
Bill D
There are jump packs that put out real amperage but they aren't cheap. We used them extensively. 12/24 volt and weigh a ton. Well 40 or 50 lbs. Even then though they are a "booster" and if the battery is dead or very discharged they won't be sufficient. Bruce's suggestion is probably the best suggestion. Although I would mount it and charge as needed. It should have many starts in it before charging is needed.
Actually we're returning the Noco today. Both the black and the red clamps had chips out of them. The plastic was thin and was proud of the metal parts so it was easily damaged. It may be great inside a car but when used in the woods I have my doubts. I ended up getting this one: https://www.farmandfleet.com/product...p-starter.html Took it out of the box and hooked it up to see if it would put out a charge with the switch on and it actually started the unit. Yes, it's heavy and bulky but it sure will get the job done. Guess I'm a person that doesn't appreciate "smart" devices. They seem to be smarter than me. Thanks for the information, I learned a lot.
Was in Walmart, and they now stock starter solenoids for lawn tractors. About $14.