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Thread: need advice on track saw related purchases for building built-ins at home

  1. #16
    "i tried the ridgid vac with the saw and forgot to turn vac on 70% of the time so I went with the ct vac."
    Haha! I did this so many times while drum sanding my floors! Thanks for the advice.

    "Home Depot has a great deal right now on a cordless Makita track saw with 4 batteries, track, charger and 2 cases for $499.00 (save $319)"
    This seems like an incredible deal to me! I've just read the reviews on home depot, and this might be a really good way to go. One thing I'd like to do with the track saw is rip down 1.5" thick Ikea butcher block. I want to join 3 of these lengthwise (74"), which means I'll need to do 5 rips (4 to remove rounded edges and 1 more to finalize the overall width). I was a little concerned about a battery powered saw having enough power to do this, but it sounds like it could based on the reviews. Also, parallel guides are available and the saw will work in the festtool track, which means I could use it with the MFT/3 if I chose to buy that table.

  2. #17
    "i tried the ridgid vac with the saw and forgot to turn vac on 70% of the time so I went with the ct vac."
    Haha! I did this so many times while drum sanding my floors! Thanks for the advice.

    "Home Depot has a great deal right now on a cordless Makita track saw with 4 batteries, track, charger and 2 cases for $499.00 (save $319)"
    This seems like an incredible deal to me! I've just read the reviews on home depot, and this might be a really good way to go. One thing I'd like to do with the track saw is rip down 1.5" thick Ikea butcher block. I want to join 3 of these lengthwise (74"), which means I'll need to do 5 rips (4 to remove rounded edges and 1 more to finalize the overall width). I was a little concerned about a battery powered saw having enough power to do this, but it sounds like it could based on the reviews. Also, parallel guides are available and the saw will work in the festtool track, which means I could use it with the MFT/3 if I chose to buy that table.

    One question about the Festool dust extractor: down the road, if I were to get one, what makes it automatically turn on? Does it turn on when an appliance plugged into it start running? If yes, I'm guessing the extractor would work with any power tool that plugs in, but not with a battery powered tool. Is my understanding correct? Is there a switch on the dust extractor to have it always on so it can be used with a battery powered tool?
    Last edited by Rob Wolfbrandt; 02-16-2018 at 2:34 PM.

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
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    fayetteville Arkansas
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    I have the Dewalt, it's worked out great, seems like it was about $600 for both long and short rails, saw, 2 clamps and the metal bar that joins the rails. I'm sure the Makita is a great saw as well but is does not have the riving knife. Not a problem if you are only breaking down plywood but nice to have if you straight line boards once in a while.

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    San Francisco, CA
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rob Wolfbrandt View Post

    One question about the Festool dust extractor: down the road, if I were to get one, what makes it automatically turn on? Does it turn on when an appliance plugged into it start running? If yes, I'm guessing the extractor would work with any power tool that plugs in, but not with a battery powered tool. Is my understanding correct? Is there a switch on the dust extractor to have it always on so it can be used with a battery powered tool?
    Yes, if on autostart mode, it will turn on when the tool that is plugged into it turns on. Otherwise you can just turn it on like a regular vac. It's also worth pointing out that there's nothing particularly special about Festool dust extractors. Quiet vacs with autostart are made by other companies too, including Fein. As with any Festool purchase, it's important to consider what you are actually getting for your money. You pay a premium for the features of the "system" - e.g. "I can stack my systainers on the vac!"

    There is an aftermarket accessory made by RTS Engineering (Max-SYS) that gives the vac a remote functionality so you can clip a small remote to the end of the hose and not have to walk over to your vac when using a cordless tool, but we're probably getting ahead of ourselves here. Also, Festool has released vacs in the UK with Bluetooth functionality, though that has not made it to the US just yet.

    If I were you, I'd hold off on purchasing a Festool vac until they include the new smooth hose, which is now standard in the UK (and EU?). Those should be coming over maybe later this year.
    Last edited by Victor Robinson; 02-16-2018 at 2:51 PM.

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    New York, NY
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    2,203
    If time / money are an issue, I'd recommend setting up an account with CabParts and ordering at least the boxes and drawers from them. Their quality is excellent and they'll even provide the correct door sizes if you're thinking of going with 5-piece instead of slab ones.

    https://cabparts.com

    Kitchens can get expensive easily. Save your money for the appliances.

  6. #21
    You can buy auto switched and remote switches that will make any vac do the same thing as the Fein and Festool.

    https://www.amazon.com/iVAC-10031-01...h+for+shop+vac

    https://www.amazon.com/i-socket-110m...h+for+shop+vac

  7. #22
    Rob,
    In case it might be helpful, you can check out my post on building your own saw tracks here
    Edwin

  8. #23
    " Also, Festool has released vacs in the UK with Bluetooth functionality, though that has not made it to the US just yet."
    Ha! So for a living I'm an engineer that specializes in Bluetooth and I was just walking around the house thinking I could make a wireless control for a vacuum! Glad to know there's stuff out there. Thanks.

  9. #24
    Quote Originally Posted by matt romanowski View Post
    I would suggest the Makita track saw with the 55" and 118" tracks. Then add a TSO products squaring rig (I have all of these and they are great). Then get the Makita router attachment and you can use your Ryobi router for dados (it needs a peice of 3/16 plexi on the bottom to level it out). Buy an extra sheet of plywood and use that for a bench for now and start building! Oh, and don't forget to get clamps! Some pipe clamps (you're doing big stuff) and some smaller hand clamps.
    This is what I'm leaning towards. I think I'll go the cordless route for the freedom. I'm really interested in the parallel guides, too. Have you tried those?

    Thanks everyone. All of the replies have been valuable. I may post back with a question or two, and I'll post back when I pull the trigger, which might be this weekend.
    Last edited by Rob Wolfbrandt; 02-16-2018 at 6:41 PM.

  10. #25
    Anyone have experience with the Makita RP1800 3-1/4 HP Plunge Router? Looks like it's $50 off (will cost $233.99) at Tool Nut if I buy the Makita Tracksaw from them.

  11. #26
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Pacific Northwest
    Posts
    281
    + 1 on Makita track saw. I have the 55” guide and really happy with the saw. The times I need to cut a piece of plywood or other sheet good lengthwise is virtually never.

  12. #27
    Quote Originally Posted by Nick Lazz View Post
    + 1 on Makita track saw. I have the 55” guide and really happy with the saw. The times I need to cut a piece of plywood or other sheet good lengthwise is virtually never.
    Awesome, that's the one I'm getting. I've got at least two projects where I think the long rail would come in handy: (1) ripping some 74" long butcher block and (2) cutting the sides of my built-ins, which will be about 60" tall. I imagine I'd rip the 48" x 96" down to 48" x 60" with the 55" guide rail, then use the 118" guide rail to rip 4 60" sides out of that.

  13. #28
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
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    Griswold Connecticut
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    Rob

    You've definitely got a lot of good advice, and as you see folks here aren't shy about spending other folks money.
    To make your own cabinets is very satisfying. You get to control every phase and don't have to live with anything that is "standard".
    To make cabinets you need to break down a 4'x8' sheet of cabinet grade plywood. This will take a nice saw with a good blade. The blade is probably more important than the saw, believe it or not. You need a straight edge to guide the saw. Here is where you need to make a decision.
    Will you "rough cut" your plywood panels and then size them on your table saw? Most likely. Or will you try to to accurately cut them with a track saw only. You might try, but to hold the repeatability of a track saw over the dozens upon dozens of cuts you'll need to make will be taxing. You will probably end up with a hybrid of the two. Get as close as you can with the track saw, and then size them on the table saw. You're not doing a "one off", you're going into production. That table saw will be critical. Guaranteed. You might get rid of it after this project, but no way I'd get rid of it prior to the project.

    Routers, you need two of them. I promise. To cut rails and stiles requires a bit set. Each router will have the complimentary set of cutters in it.One for rails, one for stiles. Once you get these set up to mate properly, I absolutely guarantee that you will not want to mess with them. Changing cutter sets, and resetting cutter heights, will kill you on time, and material waste. This doesn't even include incorporating a raised panel bit if necessary. into the equation. If you're making your own drawers, the same will hold true. There are a lot more parts in a cabinet than folks realize, until you make one.

    I would personally go with a straight edge to use with your current circular saw and spend the saved money on high quality blades, high quality cabinet cutter sets, and that second router.
    I've never seen any distinct advantage to an MFT table, but they are nice and ruggedly built. They wouldn't hurt your endeavor, that's for sure.

    Routers. The big Makita should be fine. Remember, you need two of them.

    Vac's. If you can afford it, get a nice vacuum. Fein, Festool, etc. You will not regret it. Your current setup will work in the garage, but it is nice to have a better vac in the house if necessary.

    Clamps. You're going to need a lot of clamps for face frames and to pull cabinet parts together. Home Depot sells a line of Bessy parallels that are nice. Expensive, but nice.

    One machine I'm not seeing is a planer. You might want to consider one. Controlling material thickness will go a long way towards improving your work flow, time and final result. Sanding to match differing material thicknesses, sucks big time.

    Your work flow will go a long way towards determining your tool needs. Get that down, and things may clear up for you.

    Also, don't be afraid to buy high quality tools. When you're done, you can sell high quality tools for more than lesser quality, and recover more of your upfront cost quicker. Something to consider.
    Last edited by Mike Cutler; 02-16-2018 at 9:29 PM.
    "The first thing you need to know, will likely be the last thing you learn." (Unknown)

  14. #29
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Location
    Marina del Rey, Ca
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rob Wolfbrandt View Post
    ... I've got at least two projects where I think the long rail would come in handy...
    Every time you buy lumber you will use the long track to straighten the first edge.

    I have the 4-1/2', 6' and 10' Festool tracks.
    "Anything seems possible when you don't know what you're doing."

  15. Quote Originally Posted by Rob Wolfbrandt View Post
    This is what I'm leaning towards. I think I'll go the cordless route for the freedom. I'm really interested in the parallel guides, too. Have you tried those?

    Thanks everyone. All of the replies have been valuable. I may post back with a question or two, and I'll post back when I pull the trigger, which might be this weekend.
    I have the guides from Seneca as well. Those are nice too, but stay on a guide rail once set up.

    For rails, for a long time I used two 55" together for long cuts. Works well when you don't have to do lots of cuts, but a bit of a pain when you need it frequently. I ended up buying the 118" rail.

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