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Thread: SawStop 3hp or 5hp?

  1. #16
    The wiring to my 220v outlets is already 10 gauge so that shouldn't be a problem for the 5hp motor. Apparently I'll have to change the breaker to 30 amps though. The existing 20 amp breaker seemed like a good fit for my previous cabinet saw and other 220v machines. According to SawStop their motors, as with the saws themselves are also made in Taiwan, which seems to explain claims that starting capacitors sometimes go bad. Asian motors are known to be harder starting than European or USA made motors. The warranty on Industrial cabinet saw motors is 5 years instead of 2 years on the Professional model. Hopefully that's an indication of a better made motor and a lesser tendency for the capacitors to fail. The only other consideration that I can think of has to do with resale value. I have a tendency to change equipment periodically, sometimes to upgrade and sometimes to explore something different. Would the 5hp motor be easier to sell than the 3 hp? If not, I'll probably go with the 3hp based primarily on the $400 added cost, which seems excessive to me.

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
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    Bloomington, IL
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    6,009
    Not true for me. I own a 5hp SS. My brake fired because I put my thumb into the blade. Normal nick on thumb. Blade was sent to forrest for repair and test. 2 carbide teeth fixed and its back in action.

    In 2006 the upgrade to 5hp was $200 and $400 bought the 7.5.hp

  3. #18
    Anybody who thinks 5hp over 3hp isn't significant just hasn't cut enough wood.

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Atlanta, GA
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    1,356
    When I buy stuff, and I think later, "I shoulda got bigger/better...." I hate that.

    So my last TS is this 5hp SS (my first was a Craftsman).....it is a joy to use; the saw never tires.

    WW is just my hobby; the saw just sings right through anything I run through it 12/4 maple, oak, etc.

    As for the blade viability post-emergency braking....I've done that about, I guess 4 times (I know.....), and only one blade warped where it could not be used safely.

    The teeth of the WWII get knocked off, but still safe and useable.

    If you can possibly afford it, get the big one, and don't look back.....and never want for another TS.
    David
    Confidence: That feeling you get before fully understanding a situation (Anonymous)

  5. #20
    I had the same dilemma, but mine was between the 1.75 and the 3HP SS. I decided 3HP as it will cover pretty much anything I might need in the future. Therefore, go with the 5HP and be done with it!

  6. #21
    typical for me for one customer as an example was pick 30 boards 10 feet long 5/4 oak, rough rip no splitter or guard stuff. Tension release would be whatever it was depending on the board and also the rip width, that is how much was being removed or what the cut was. Oak was from Pennsylvannia and lighter and not as hard as oak for another job that was from Michigan, that stuff was more like white oak not quite but for sure harder and heavier. While i did it for many years the 3Hp saw was under powered for that, splitter would helped with tension release. So depending on what you are doing and how you are set up, properly or old school like me. 30 boards were run through the saw one after another 3Hp Leeson might start out fine and then start to struggle, I could run the RPM down pretty fast depending on how I was pushing. I get the blade thing sharp and right blade, for the way I worked that job it was underpowered other stuff fine.

    What gets me is the few times ive been around carpenters building stuff. Those take the cale for underpowered, I think most electric shavers have bigger motors. One guy burned one out ripping Abeco deck boards then went home and got a smaller one.

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    WNY
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    9,648
    As a DIY'er I can't think of a single reason that would justify me buying a 5HP TS. Kickback force is proportional to motor HP; a SawStop doesn't prevent kickback. There is no cut in 8/4 and thinner stock I can't make with my 1.5 HP Unisaw with an appropriate and sharp blade. For anything thicker than that I use my BS.

    John

  8. #23
    OP here again... Probably reached the end of my noodlin' on the question of whether to get a 3 or 5 hp ICS. My previous cabinet saw was 3hp and it served me well, never leaving me short of power. I usually don't like to skimp on my tool purchases but in this case the extra $400 for a 5hp motor just doesn't make sense at present. However, I have a backup plan should my needs change. The cost to retrofit a 3hp ICS to 5hp is only $700 ($475 for the motor and $225 for some other electricals) or $300 more than the initial cost of the 5hp upgrade. Or am I missing something?

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
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    Central WI
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    I think the only other costs might be sheaves and belts if the motor frame and shaft are different between the 3 and 5 hp.

    I'm not sure i agree that a larger motor is more risky due to kickback. A motor that slows or stalls can create danger. I'd rather be overpowered than under but think the OP's decision making is sound for a 10" saw. Dave

  10. #25
    depends on the actual kick back ive been nailed by both and the 3 was worse. I wouldnt consider that on choosing motor size, Id want a motor that can do the work I need it to do in the way and speed i do it.

  11. #26
    Quote Originally Posted by David Kumm View Post
    I think the only other costs might be sheaves and belts if the motor frame and shaft are different between the 3 and 5 hp.

    I'm not sure i agree that a larger motor is more risky due to kickback. A motor that slows or stalls can create danger. I'd rather be overpowered than under but think the OP's decision making is sound for a 10" saw. Dave
    I contacted SawStop a couple of times and they assured me that the only difference between the 3 and 5 hp ICS is the motor and contactor.

  12. #27
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    Feb 2011
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    Central WI
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    Are the motors IEC or NEMA ? Standard frame or proprietary? Not having to buy a motor from SS would also impact the decision about upgrading later. Dave

  13. #28
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
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    Phoenix AZ Area
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    If I recall the 5HP single phase motor and the 7.5HP single phase motors where surprisingly about the same physical size as the 3HP.

  14. #29
    Quote Originally Posted by Joe Jensen View Post
    If I recall the 5HP single phase motor and the 7.5HP single phase motors where surprisingly about the same physical size as the 3HP.
    I don't believe SawStop offers a single phase 7.5HP motor, at least according to their current website. That's only available in 3 phase.

  15. #30
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
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    Central WI
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    I'm not surprised if various motor hp options were all fit into the same frame motor. that has become increasingly common as companies market HP but don't want to beef up their build to handle larger heavier frame motors. The downside is that the higher hp motors run hotter. The insulation handles the extra heat but the bearings fail more quickly. Replacing those high HP small frame motors is expensive because they are difficult to rewind and often the only replacements are available from the machine manufacturer who upcharges for them. As a matter of information it would be good to know what frame sizes are used and if larger motors use a larger frame. I always look at the motor efficiency and frame size relative to HP when researching machines. Dave

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